Briggs & Stratton OHV Throttle Kit

Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#1
#1
I bought a new B&S 5.5hp OHV engine at Northern Tools yesterday for $209.95.

The packaging included a cable clamp to convert the throttle to RV use, but performance using this clamp is marginal, at best.

I'll be converting the throttle using my own parts, and intend to fabricate some different set-ups to include using or replacing various factory components.

I want to have photos of a nearly-stock setup that retains many factory components, and also variations working towards a trimmed-down custom version.

All pieces should be readily available off the shelf, or easily and inexpensively fabricated with simple tools.

Photos forthcoming...
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#2
#2
Pic 1- Stock B&S throttle components and mounting plate...the clamp is screwed to the mounting plate in the location pictured, but this position allows remote throttle manipulation with a push-type throttle...a common minibike twist grip throttle is a pull-type throttle.

Pic 2- A commonly found push-type throttle...unsuitable for minibike use, but this is the type of throttle that can be used on the B&S OHV engines without modification. If a twist grip throttle is used, it will operate in reverse of it's designed manner...

Pic 3- One method of mounting a pull-type twist throttle...this method retains the stock mounting plate, but the throttle arm has been removed, the spring tension has been reversed to hold the carb linkage in the idle position, and the cable running to the twist grip has been attached to the governor arm. This method retains the governor assembly, but overides it's operation.

Pic 4- The mounting plate also holds the fuel tank on, and this linkage is hidden beneath the tank, with the cable entering from the front of the engine.

Pic 5- The next method shows linkage for use when the mounting plate and gas tank are removed and discarded. The heat shield is also discarded in the following photos, but can be retained and used for a spring mounting location- shown here by a red dot on the shield.
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#3
#3
Continued...

Pic 6- This method is similar to the other, except the mounting plate is missing and can't be used to position the incoming cable.

Pic 7- A simple cable router/housing stop fabbed in brass. The cable housing stop can be exchanged for a threaded barrel adjuster type stop if one is not included in the twist throttle grip assembly. This particular piece is for a bike that uses the rotary hand controls shown elsewhere in this section, and these controls have barrel adjusters built into the grip assembly.

Pic 8- One method of attaching the cable to the governor arm...this is a small hook attached to the cable with a side-by-side copper cable cinch...the smaller aluminum single cinch behind the copper cinch is positioned to act as a cable stop, preventing the cable from drawing the carb's butterfly past the fully-open position. There is a small arm on the carb itself that is designed to prevent overtravel, but they bend easily when the governor is overidden, and this cable stop insures the carb arm isn't damaged.

Pic 9- Alternate method...an inline cinch connects the cable to the hook, and is positioned to also act as the cable stop.

These pieces can be found in hardware stores or made from automotive electrical connectors. The hook is fabbed from mild steel wire, bent with two needlenose pliers.
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#5
#5
Thanks Jesse,

I collaborate on a lot of builds...more motorcycles than minibikes, though.

Weekly Bike Nights in Miami draw 800-1,000 people, and I get the chance to build some bikes with 4 or 5 other guys, each supplying some parts and labor.

We design a bike, build it together, ride it for a while, and then sell it, dividing the money.

This gives me a chance to try out lots of ideas and parts I wouldn't be able to do if I was building alone.
 
Yellowhand

Yellowhand

#12
#12
A final pic of this engine's throttle set-up...a second brass adjuster/splice was fabbed for the brake cable(s)...the bike is too long for standard readily-available bicycle cables, and I fabbed the piece instead of buying an 84" brake cable from the go-kart shop.
 
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