Briggs won't start
- Thread starter EagleTalons
- Start date
- Tags briggs start won't
Use a torque wrench and tighten to factory spec.
Make sure crankshaft and flywheel mating surfaces are clean and free of any oil or grease. Clean with alcohol.
Keys should only shear under extreme circumstances.
Valve stem should be ground and not tappet.
Important: use a valve gauging tool to keep stem square.
Make sure crankshaft and flywheel mating surfaces are clean and free of any oil or grease. Clean with alcohol.
Keys should only shear under extreme circumstances.
Valve stem should be ground and not tappet.
Important: use a valve gauging tool to keep stem square.
Last edited:
Valves are purposely longer when new for various reasons one of which is to bring them into spec in case something changes such as grinding and/or lapping.
Also, to remove tappets engine must be completely dissasembled. Not so with the valves. Simply remove head and breather. Everything is there that you need to get to.
You are (in effect) creating triple the work using your method.
By the time your 1 engine is finished...I've done 3.
Not too often that valve train needs any work to begin with. Unless I know specifically that there is a problem, I leave them alone.
"Don't fix what ain't broke."
Also, to remove tappets engine must be completely dissasembled. Not so with the valves. Simply remove head and breather. Everything is there that you need to get to.
You are (in effect) creating triple the work using your method.
By the time your 1 engine is finished...I've done 3.
Not too often that valve train needs any work to begin with. Unless I know specifically that there is a problem, I leave them alone.
"Don't fix what ain't broke."
Last edited:
ut:That's not necessarily so,I used to build 5hp Briggs engines for racing karts and I always ground the lifters.If your crank bearing on the pto side of the engine is clearanced so it will slip of the crank and your clutch isn't rusted fast to the crank,it doesn't take any more time to pull the side cover off the engine,pull the cam and change the lifters.I've changed lifters at the track already to try to get a little better setup for that track.You don't have to take the carb off or at least the tank to get the breather off or mess with springs and keepers either.:thumbsup:
It idles good now, that's all it does since I don't have the mikuni hooked up yet. Also, I don't want to rev it too high with the starter clutch being properly torqued down. I ordered a tool from MFG to fit on my torque wrench.
The problem was the lash, it was holding it open too much, giving it a superior compression release that the elderly could use. Now, I can feel alot more compression than before the rebuild! I'm thinking that was this engine's problem all along. Now it starts with 1 pull.
The problem was the lash, it was holding it open too much, giving it a superior compression release that the elderly could use. Now, I can feel alot more compression than before the rebuild! I'm thinking that was this engine's problem all along. Now it starts with 1 pull.