Yes, Both will.
EDIT: If you go to www.affordablegokarts.com they have a whole section on GX200 Hop up parts.
EDIT: If you go to www.affordablegokarts.com they have a whole section on GX200 Hop up parts.
the billet stuff from above
okay so how is this for starting out?
affordablegokarts: GX390 Carburetor
affordablegokarts: Cylinder Head, 18cc, Bare
okay so how is this for starting out?
affordablegokarts: GX390 Carburetor
affordablegokarts: Cylinder Head, 18cc, Bare
right here: affordablegokarts: Best Bang for the Buck and a mikuni carb
Start with a 14cc clone head ( cheap to free at a small engine shop ).
Do a search and learn where and how to port it.
Piston use a flat top and this will yield around 11 to 1 or maybe a bit more compression. Great low end torque improvement.
Advance your timing 6 deg.
Look for a header 7/8 ID.
Find a carb like the PZ22 from a Briggs Animal or a Tillotson ( the latter is easier to tune )
Make small changes 1 at a time and experiment.
Do a search and learn where and how to port it.
Piston use a flat top and this will yield around 11 to 1 or maybe a bit more compression. Great low end torque improvement.
Advance your timing 6 deg.
Look for a header 7/8 ID.
Find a carb like the PZ22 from a Briggs Animal or a Tillotson ( the latter is easier to tune )
Make small changes 1 at a time and experiment.
im thinkin about buying this kit first
affordablegokarts: Bolt-On Kit 4
and then buy billet stuff later on, also how well will this motor run on ethanol?
affordablegokarts: Bolt-On Kit 4
and then buy billet stuff later on, also how well will this motor run on ethanol?
No I don't think thats a wise choice.
Do what I said.
As a foundation to a good build you must have strong parts like the Billet rod and flywheel.
Add compression ( 14cc head ).
Improve flow ( header, Better carb and porting ).
Advance timing 6 deg.
18 deg springs
Use a Honda flat top piston AND wrist pin ( clone pins are weak, see my pictures )
Burn gasoline, keep it simple
Look at cam for your aplication that works with your compression
You can easily piss away a lot of money on things you can get from other sources and make work yourself.
Do what I said.
As a foundation to a good build you must have strong parts like the Billet rod and flywheel.
Add compression ( 14cc head ).
Improve flow ( header, Better carb and porting ).
Advance timing 6 deg.
18 deg springs
Use a Honda flat top piston AND wrist pin ( clone pins are weak, see my pictures )
Burn gasoline, keep it simple
Look at cam for your aplication that works with your compression
You can easily piss away a lot of money on things you can get from other sources and make work yourself.
I agree with Oldschool, buy billet first THENbuy the go fast parts. Here is what I did. First I bought kit #1, then I rode it, then I bought billet parts and AFTER I had the billet parts I removed the gov, to keep myslef from running without them. Then rode it for a week or so and got a cam, head, (already had a flat top) bigger carb, 18 lb springs. That's what I did, and I ended up with some extra parts but I find that half of the fun is building the motor, and I would stay away from ethanol unless you want to go crazy with parts (like stroke it).
Oh yeah, choose a carb now because they aren't easy on the wallet. I run a tillotson and a gx390 carb, and I like the tillotson much more. I haven't tried any mikunis, mainly because I was able to find a tillotson carb at a small engine repair shop, and I got it for 35$$, the same one that agk sells, brand new because they bought it to replace a chainsaw carb but it was too big and they couldn't return it, I didn't know the size of it at the time so it was a gamble, but it worked. And 14cc heads are easy to come by, a lot of pressure washers use the smaller honda engines.
Oh yeah, choose a carb now because they aren't easy on the wallet. I run a tillotson and a gx390 carb, and I like the tillotson much more. I haven't tried any mikunis, mainly because I was able to find a tillotson carb at a small engine repair shop, and I got it for 35$$, the same one that agk sells, brand new because they bought it to replace a chainsaw carb but it was too big and they couldn't return it, I didn't know the size of it at the time so it was a gamble, but it worked. And 14cc heads are easy to come by, a lot of pressure washers use the smaller honda engines.
I agree with Oldschool, buy billet first THENbuy the go fast parts. Here is what I did. First I bought kit #1, then I rode it, then I bought billet parts and AFTER I had the billet parts I removed the gov, to keep myslef from running without them. Then rode it for a week or so and got a cam, head, (already had a flat top) bigger carb, 18 lb springs. That's what I did, and I ended up with some extra parts but I find that half of the fun is building the motor, and I would stay away from ethanol unless you want to go crazy with parts (like stroke it).
Oh yeah, choose a carb now because they aren't easy on the wallet. I run a tillotson and a gx390 carb, and I like the tillotson much more. I haven't tried any mikunis, mainly because I was able to find a tillotson carb at a small engine repair shop, and I got it for 35$$, the same one that agk sells, brand new because they bought it to replace a chainsaw carb but it was too big and they couldn't return it, I didn't know the size of it at the time so it was a gamble, but it worked. And 14cc heads are easy to come by, a lot of pressure washers use the smaller honda engines.
Oh yeah, choose a carb now because they aren't easy on the wallet. I run a tillotson and a gx390 carb, and I like the tillotson much more. I haven't tried any mikunis, mainly because I was able to find a tillotson carb at a small engine repair shop, and I got it for 35$$, the same one that agk sells, brand new because they bought it to replace a chainsaw carb but it was too big and they couldn't return it, I didn't know the size of it at the time so it was a gamble, but it worked. And 14cc heads are easy to come by, a lot of pressure washers use the smaller honda engines.
jareeb i can sell you a kit for your engine, shoot me a pm on what kinda power your looking for and what kinda budget you wanna spend.
i can give you a great deal on a kit.:thumbsup:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/advertising
website is still being worked on, look for many more items on it in the weeks to come.
i can give you a great deal on a kit.:thumbsup:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/advertising
website is still being worked on, look for many more items on it in the weeks to come.
Last edited by a moderator:
I see this over and over.
People get all excited and see whats available in the after market, but building an engine that fist your needs is not a case of just throwing money at the problem.
You need to weigh your need for power against the need for reliability and ecconomy.
From my own experience you can reliably double the HP and torque of one of these engines without a major sacrifice in reliability but more important driveability and it doesn't have to be expensive.
Once you cross that bridge you can consider more powerful engines but they will require a lot of understanding and planning. The kits you see are not a bad thing but they don't contain all the parts you realy need and sometimes they contain parts that will work against you.
All I can say is just get one simple reliable engine then if thats not enough build a second and third....
People get all excited and see whats available in the after market, but building an engine that fist your needs is not a case of just throwing money at the problem.
You need to weigh your need for power against the need for reliability and ecconomy.
From my own experience you can reliably double the HP and torque of one of these engines without a major sacrifice in reliability but more important driveability and it doesn't have to be expensive.
Once you cross that bridge you can consider more powerful engines but they will require a lot of understanding and planning. The kits you see are not a bad thing but they don't contain all the parts you realy need and sometimes they contain parts that will work against you.
All I can say is just get one simple reliable engine then if thats not enough build a second and third....
well whats it going to take to double my hp of this engine i am already working on the governor removal, little question about that i have watch the 4 step video on youtube and he leaves the arm on the motor but on that written INSTRUCTIONS they say remove it because it can hit the crank, so should i remove it or not? all i really want out of this motor is like 13 hp. but i didnt want to just go to hf and just by there 13hp i wanted to build one.
If you return it to the right position it wont, I did one that way and my briggs intec is setup the same way. Just position it exactly where it would be in normal operation mode and it wont travel far enough to hit anything! Some folks just leave it where it ends up after they move it to remove the gear and re-attach the arm, that's when they run into trouble. Personally I like the cover plate with the throttle hookup, you have to plug the gov. shaft hole with a 1/4-20 self threading bolt or tap it for a pulse port for a fuel pump.
I dont remove the governers on my clones but use a spring to limit the effect of the governer, I like to be able to return a clone under warranty and keep riding!:thumbsup:
I dont remove the governers on my clones but use a spring to limit the effect of the governer, I like to be able to return a clone under warranty and keep riding!:thumbsup: