Building a Hemi....for Dummies

#21
How about a short tapping fluid discussion? Tap Magic for ferrous and aluminum? Two inexpensive, clearly labeled, easy to use containers? I don’t remember if HF stocks any tapping fluid. If a magnet sticks, use this one, if not, use that one...
Great thread here.
 
#22
How about a short tapping fluid discussion? Tap Magic for ferrous and aluminum? Two inexpensive, clearly labeled, easy to use containers? I don’t remember if HF stocks any tapping fluid. If a magnet sticks, use this one, if not, use that one...
Great thread here.
See, I didn’t even know about tapping fluid.
 
#23
Hell I was thinking of putting a valve stem in the low oil hole..optional venting..
But seriously is there any use or need for crankcase venting with any of the holes we are closing? Remember these are just opinions that we will quickly discuss and majority rules. Then we can put it all in bullet points with links to the parts at the end of each step of the build.
 
#24
You can use the oil sensor hole as a vent .. Put a 90° fitting in it and run a line to the valve cover .. Or you can drill and tap a hole on the top flat where the gx200 is labeled on a Honda . a crank case vent is a good idea on more extreme builds but not necessary for what most people are doing
 
Last edited:
#25
I am guessing we are going forward with rods,cams,piston?head?flywheel. Etc... so is a vent suggested? I would think we should give examples so it is an option. Where do you get the the 90 degree?
 
#28
You can use the oil sensor hole as a vent .. Put a 90° fitting in it and run a line to the valve cover .. Or you can drill and tap a hole on the top flat where the gx200 is labeled on a Honda . a crank case vent is a good idea on more extreme builds but not necessary for what most people are doing
I'm with Tim on the venting...mostly for full blown race engines . The valve cover already has a vent tube coming out of it and works very well....some might want to add a small filter to that rubber hose . They can be bought at Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone .
 

T-Town Mini

Well-Known Member
#29
Under the subject of Tapping threads:

One "tool" I might suggest is a Tap/Drill size chart for easy reference.

tap-drill-chart-13.jpg

It might look confusing for a beginner but, once you know how to use it you'll find it indispensable.

For example: If you want to tap a 1/4 - 20 thread.
Look on the chart under "Tap Size" and find 1/4 - 20.
Then, look in the corresponding column under "Drill Size" for the correct size drill bit required.
In this instance it would be a Number 7 drill bit.
Now, you know which drill and tap to write down on your shopping list.
One 1/4 - 20 tap and one Number 7 Drill Bit.

Some tool stores will have individual tap & drill sets pre-packaged (with the correct drill bit and tap) rather than having to buy a complete Tap and Die set.

I always buy them individually...but, that's just me.

And, yes...whether tapping or drilling using some kind of lubricant is a must. Yeah, it can be done without and, you can be purchasing a lot of replacement bits, etc. too. So, get an oil can, wd40...anything is better than nothing.
 
Last edited:
#31
One thing I do is to drill out the oil return hole between the lifter bore . I usually drill it out to 1/4"



Just a little bit more breathing room for the crank case pressure.

DONE
 
Last edited:
#33
So should we just let the thread roll. Or stop between steps and narrow things down. I was thinking about waiting until the end to putting things in steps. I also like the idea of someone reading through the whole thread to pick up everything discussed.
 
#36
I would like to hear others chime in like [MENTION=3072]ole4[/MENTION] [MENTION=43506]trinik7597[/MENTION]k and some others as well.
 
Last edited:
#40
I guess everyone has there own way and technics for building a engine . I would probably go on to checking my ring gap and if I hadn't already checked piston to deck height. Hoping some more chime in !
 
Top