Clutch Problem W/ Bored out 5hp

[treverd]

I have a late model B&S 5hp motor that has been bored out, equipped with a larger carb, and overall tuned up. The problem I'm havin is that once I start the motor up its ok for the first few seconds but then the clutch/chain start to make a grinding noise. And it jolts forwards and usually dies.

The previous owner say's this is because the RPM's are higher than it was originally. Once I do get it to start up and drive it hauls some major a$$. But it begins to grind and bog down in the lower RPM turns.

What would your first guess the problem is?

New clutch needed? Lower the idle RPM's?
I'm kinda just getting started with small engines so I could use a little help.

Thanks a ton guys!

 

[Strigoi]

probably a carb issue of some kind.

if the clutch is making grinding noises it might need to be replaced.

 

[treverd]

So just a routine carb clean up, will do the trick?

If that doesn't help, what brand of clutch do you recommend?

 

[milo raptors]

So just a routine carb clean up, will do the trick?

If that doesn't help, what brand of clutch do you recommend?

comet max-torq or noram

 

[Strigoi]

yeah, a Comet or Max Torque would be fine. the Noram clutches are a bit more expensive.

as for the carb, i'd at least check the idle and also make sure the throttle is closing all the way. cleaning it can't hurt either if it hasn't been done for awhile.

here's a link to some Noram clutches, they're not as common so it's a bit harder to find them. stay away from the disc style ones.

http://www.out2win.com/catalog/noram.html

 

[milo raptors]

my freind had a mini with a noram 2 plate set at medium engajments and that sucker flew and it was stock to... why would you wana stay away from the disk style?

 

[Strigoi]

disc clutches don't work well for regular riding.

i've got a Noram Cheetah that's stalled at 3500rpm on my DB now. it does not work for regular riding and is basically a drag clutch.

if you want to use your bike for tooling around stay away from the disc style clutches. they're very expensive and don't work well in those type of applications.

 

[minibikin']

Depending on where the bike is idling, the clutch just may have never been oiled(bushings) and is now shot. If your idle is higher than stock, you may need to play with the cluch springs once you get a good clutch. I'm not seeing where a dirty carb comes into play unless your having starting/performance issues that I missed?

 

[Strigoi]

i doubt it's a dirty carb, but if it's a new to you engine it can't hurt to clean it.

 

[milo raptors]

yup he should just prolly do all the litle routine stuff as well why hes at it

 

[treverd]

Clutch lubing and maintenance

What would be the standard procedure to check and see if my clutch is operating correctly and if so, do some lubing?

I took a look at the engine and it is a B&S 5 hp Model:130232 Type:4036

Thanks again guys!

 

[milo raptors]

well you lube or grease the bushing or bearing were the clutch bell an the hub were the disk are spins cause that crank spins and the bell is siting still thus that makes friction dont lube it it can rust and or burn up and grab just idleing

 

[Wes]

Yeah I would check that bushing. You can get replacements if needed.

 

[perez05pr]

a trick, only for today, jejeje open the clutch take out the spring and cut it a little bit and with a plier make the round end again and put it back.

 

[845mx5]

Lower the rpms. The clutch is jumping forward because it is engaging. That is because the RPMS are higher then stock.

 

[swamperjmb]

clutch/chain start to make a grinding noise. And it jolts forwards and usually dies.

This is what my son's mini did. The person that owned it before us never oiled the bushing. Well the bushing was shot, but I oiled it any way so he could ride it. I got a new clutch and problem solved :thumbsup: