Ducar 212, how to break it in.
- Thread starter bropep13
- Start date
Straight 30 weight, if you can find it. If not, conventional 10w30 works too.
Do not let it idle.
Use up and down rpm to seat the rings. Dont let it set too long at a steady rpm. Keep moving throttle. Keep it above 2500 rpm, to break in the cam, for the 1st hr.
I like to put a hot cycle on the engine, a good hr or so. Let it sit over night. Go back and check all bolts and nuts, and valve lash, then put another hot cycle on it.
I usally have the engine on the test stand for 4 or 5 days, looking for anything that comes loose, or leaks, or what ever.
If it's gonna break, I'd rather it break on the test stand and not a mile down the road with no cell signal.
I change oil the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd hr, looking for metal in the oil.
After break in, I use Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic.
This is my way.
You can always jus throw it on go. And wait for parts to fall off. Your choice
Do not let it idle.
Use up and down rpm to seat the rings. Dont let it set too long at a steady rpm. Keep moving throttle. Keep it above 2500 rpm, to break in the cam, for the 1st hr.
I like to put a hot cycle on the engine, a good hr or so. Let it sit over night. Go back and check all bolts and nuts, and valve lash, then put another hot cycle on it.
I usally have the engine on the test stand for 4 or 5 days, looking for anything that comes loose, or leaks, or what ever.
If it's gonna break, I'd rather it break on the test stand and not a mile down the road with no cell signal.
I change oil the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd hr, looking for metal in the oil.
After break in, I use Mobil 1 10w30 full synthetic.
This is my way.
You can always jus throw it on go. And wait for parts to fall off. Your choice
My, that Ducar arrived quickly.
https://oldminibikes.com/forum/inde...2-cc-to-coleman-ct200u-ex.178129/post-1308631
https://oldminibikes.com/forum/inde...2-cc-to-coleman-ct200u-ex.178129/post-1308631
Synthetic and conventional are not the same. Brownstain was who suggested the Ducar, and he is also the one who suggested 30 wt conventional or 10w30 CONVENTIONAL if 30 wt was not available.
I do believe I would go with his suggestion, rather than ask two more questions, ignoring his response.
I use 10w30 CONVENTIONAL oil, not synthetic. I turn do not install a chain, I turn the idle up and I sit on it and pretend I am riding it for about 20 minutes, revving it up and down. Shut it off and let it cool. I do that twice. After it cools, I drain the oil into a frying pan with a white paper plate in the bottom of it. There should be fine little metal flakes and maybe a few little slivers in your oil. Now, I remove the valve cover, adjust valve clearance, torque head bolts and side cover bolts. Reinstall valve cover, PUT DRAIN PLUG BACK IN, refill with fresh oil (again, I use 10w30 CONVENTIONAL oil) . Restart the engine, turn the idle back down.
These engines do not have oil pumps. They use a splash oiling system. Synthetic oils do not splash like conventional oils. That is why I never use synthetic oil.
I do believe I would go with his suggestion, rather than ask two more questions, ignoring his response.
I use 10w30 CONVENTIONAL oil, not synthetic. I turn do not install a chain, I turn the idle up and I sit on it and pretend I am riding it for about 20 minutes, revving it up and down. Shut it off and let it cool. I do that twice. After it cools, I drain the oil into a frying pan with a white paper plate in the bottom of it. There should be fine little metal flakes and maybe a few little slivers in your oil. Now, I remove the valve cover, adjust valve clearance, torque head bolts and side cover bolts. Reinstall valve cover, PUT DRAIN PLUG BACK IN, refill with fresh oil (again, I use 10w30 CONVENTIONAL oil) . Restart the engine, turn the idle back down.
These engines do not have oil pumps. They use a splash oiling system. Synthetic oils do not splash like conventional oils. That is why I never use synthetic oil.
Lot different productions to pick from. but for the most part just run a 5w-30 with zinc additive(lucas come in a 16oz bottle., add couple oz's to your 5w-30) for 15 -20 mins then dump it and you can go straight back with the same oil and additive or if you want to change over to synthetic. Go and buy the mobile 1 high mileage oil. that too will have zinc in it all ready. not a lot of over-the-counter productions that still use zinc in their oils. lot guys will go with go-kart oils, but that too becomes little expensive and at the end of the day it's not worth pissing away your money on that.
Honestly, when I put the 420 Predator on our mud mower, I filled it with 10w30 conventional and we just ran it like we stole it. If I remember correctly, we changed that oil 2 years after we put it in. It is still running strong.
However.....
PS I use 30 wt in flat head engines, 10w30 in OHC engines, synthetic in none of them without a pump and a filter.
However.....
PS I use 30 wt in flat head engines, 10w30 in OHC engines, synthetic in none of them without a pump and a filter.