Looks really good. I like the larger frame and the nice long seat. However the positioning of the seat and how it hangs off the backbone of the frame is the only odd thing about it. I agree with your plan to move it forward. Seems like a wise move. Are there tabs already welded on the frame to move the seat forward or will you have to add them?
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Well, I haven't built a mini from scratch myself, but I do know that some folks find it necessary to use a spacer on their builds. Have a look at this. PMR Adjustable Motor Mount Kit
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So its mocked up now and that was it 1 1/2 exactly is what it took I had to play a little with shims on the tav to get the belt and chain straight but I got it now and I changed the gas cap to a lower profile Honda cap and have one inch of clearance to the frame so no tank change thank god. I may just bolt it down through the wood I hear its good up to 26hp LOL. but no really I may just build a new motor plate that's 1 1/2 taller than stock.
So its mocked up now and that was it 1 1/2 exactly is what it took I had to play a little with shims on the tav to get the belt and chain straight but I got it now and I changed the gas cap to a lower profile Honda cap and have one inch of clearance to the frame so no tank change thank god. I may just bolt it down through the wood I hear its good up to 26hp LOL. but no really I may just build a new motor plate that's 1 1/2 taller than stock.
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Haven't done a TAV install yet, myself, but have read several threads on the subject. Some people drill or slot the plate to rotate it and raise the driven as much as possible.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=66567&d=1417836300
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/data/500/IMG_20170404_202631063.jpg
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/data/500/IMG_20170405_133542213.jpg
Raising the rear (only) of the engine will raise the driven more than raising the engine straight up an equal amount. Simple geometry; because the driven is rearward of the engine mounts, canting the engine forward will raise the driven.
The left rear of the engine plate can be notched for clearance; a flange around the notch could be added to maintain strength/rigidity, if needed (I would just use a thick engine plate).
Check out this frame which is made for the Honda/clone TAV combo; it may be helpful.
American Flyer 215 Minibike Frame
American Flyer 215 Minibike
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=66567&d=1417836300
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/data/500/IMG_20170404_202631063.jpg
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/data/500/IMG_20170405_133542213.jpg
Raising the rear (only) of the engine will raise the driven more than raising the engine straight up an equal amount. Simple geometry; because the driven is rearward of the engine mounts, canting the engine forward will raise the driven.
The left rear of the engine plate can be notched for clearance; a flange around the notch could be added to maintain strength/rigidity, if needed (I would just use a thick engine plate).
Check out this frame which is made for the Honda/clone TAV combo; it may be helpful.
American Flyer 215 Minibike Frame
American Flyer 215 Minibike
The frame is what's in the way not just the motor plate and in trying to keep the motor level and have clearance the engine has to go straight up 1 1/2 inches as I see no other way other than cutting the frame and motor plate to clear it and that's not an option and yes if this were a flathead it would move up but with a ohv motor that's as high as it goes it's super close to the head now on the backside support there is just no other way to do this one as the rear wheel is fixed and the secondary isn't adjustable.
I seem to remember reading that you can rotate the plate (raise driven) quite a bit more if you cut off one gusset on the backside of the plate. I've seen pictures of TAVs on clones with the driven much higher than yours, with the top of the TAV plate as high as the exhaust port (yours is well below it). The first picture I linked is a 212 Predator (non-hemi); the point of view is slightly downward, so the driven would be slightly higher than it appears, putting it close to level with the bottom of the exhaust port. The linked Coleman has a 98cc clone.