Engine and governor woes...

#1
Okie dokie, six years after initially acquiring my Bird Duck project for an insane amount of money on Ebay (I learned my lesson there) I'm still struggling with this Tecumseh H35. I started with a mighty poor looking example of an engine and successfully rebuilt it fully, bringing it back to a near-new glory.

My problems are two fold: when the engine is off and, the throttle actuates just fine; meaning when I twist the throttle, the plate opens up on the carburetor and closes when I close the throttle manually. When the engine is running, it doesn't actuate at all. Moving the spring between the governor rod and the throttle linkage helped somewhat, as I found one of the holes in the gov. rod where it would open and close the throttle, though action seemed somewhat delayed at times. Many times, i would open the throttle and hold it for two or three seconds before the throttle plate on the carb would react.

Second, the baffle plate behind the flywheel that's part of the cooling shrouding keeps coming loose. I'm not sure if excessive end play in the crank shaft would cause this, but something in the form of excessive vibration seems to rattling it loose. The end play is right on the borderline of what is considered within tolerance by the Tecumseh service manual, so I'm thinking I'll try and throw another shim in there to take up some of the slack.

The only reason I'm considering resolving this issue is because of the insane (or close to it) amount of time I've spent trying to get the right engine on this bike.

Any insight to the aforementioned issues would be great, as I've never dealt with a mechanical governor before. For the record, I did properly adjust it as per the service manual.
 
#3
Sounds like the governor lever is adjusted too far to the left. There is a screw that attaches the throttle control lever to the shaft that goes into the case you need to loosen and push the lever to the right. retighten and you are good to go.

I recall having issues with the blower housing and baffles on my first bike rattling loose. Proper torque helps and a dab of loctite works awesome. The 3.5 with a zinc flywheel isn't the smoothest running of engines.
David
 
#4
Sounds like the governor lever is adjusted too far to the left. There is a screw that attaches the throttle control lever to the shaft that goes into the case you need to loosen and push the lever to the right. retighten and you are good to go.

I recall having issues with the blower housing and baffles on my first bike rattling loose. Proper torque helps and a dab of loctite works awesome. The 3.5 with a zinc flywheel isn't the smoothest running of engines.
David
NortherTool sells these rubber engine mounting grommets,to keep your
small engine vibrations to a minimum. Having an engine mounted to a
metal frame doesn't help. I should talk,since I don't have them either.
 
#5
Yeah, I do have those rubber grommets. I guess I'll have to look at using Loctite and torquing them down. I don't think I loctite'd them on the last reassembly, so perhaps I'm paying the piper now for that decision. :doah:

As for the governor linkage, I thought I'd adjusted it as per the Tecumseh manual where you push it all the way open (the throttle), and then rotate the governor link on the block all the way to the right and then tighten the screw down. In retrospect, after reading another thread that says the throttle should be wide open when the engine is off and close as soon as it's running, perhaps I'm in good shape. I'm still not entirely pleased with my crankshaft end play, so I think I'll see what I can do about tightening it up a bit... it's just on the borderline of being too sloppy.
 
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#6
I missed the part about the crank endplay; but yes, do shim it to be within the tolerance, but extra endplay in the crank won't cause extra engine vibration.

I would personally just adjust the governor until it does nothing at all. You are working on a minibike, not a lawnmower.
 
#7
Tecumseh sells crankshaft thrust washers, but good luck finding one. The pt# for an HS40 is 32323, not sure if its the same for yours.
 
#8
Tecumseh sells crankshaft thrust washers, but good luck finding one. The pt# for an HS40 is 32323, not sure if its the same for yours.
Found them at Outdoor Distributors, $1.06 each... someone else earlier said that loose endplay won't lead to excessive vibration? What would cause it, a bent crankshaft? Final question: how does a crankshaft on a horizontal oriented engine get bent? I have no idea what this engine came off of, but I'm guessing maybe a reel style mower.
 
#9
Found them at Outdoor Distributors, $1.06 each... someone else earlier said that loose endplay won't lead to excessive vibration? What would cause it, a bent crankshaft? Final question: how does a crankshaft on a horizontal oriented engine get bent? I have no idea what this engine came off of, but I'm guessing maybe a reel style mower.
Vibration is usually due to an engine not being balanced. Like a wheel that vibrates at highway speeds when it's not balanced,also. I don't know about
the crankshafts on these small engines,but at least a blueprinted engine has
to be balanced properly to reduce damaging the bearings of the crank and
rods.A bent rod would also do it,like on an engine that was overrevved,
possibly.The crankshaft endplay issue,not good,but would not produce the
excessive vibes,like your stating. Good Luck.
 
#10
I saw an H35 block on Ebay... halfway tempted to try a different block to see if my current one is worn excessively. As for the vibration, I'm thinking it doesn't seem as though there's a hugely excessive amount of vibration there, as I'm somewhat familiar with these little engines and what they do. I'll try Loctiting the bolts down and see how it goes, or how long until they loose again.
the only pain in the butt about these Tecumsehs in this instance is having to remove the flywheel to tighten two bolts :doah:
 
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