fixing a fender..

[Mr.GhettoRig]

I have a decent sized bite taken out of my rupp's rear fender.. and of course it HAS to be right where ya gotta bolt it to the frame.. any ideas on fixing it..

i mean its not one of those spots that your like "holy cow! look!! its where the fender connects to the frame!!! ut: :glare:"

maybe just weld a new piece of metal to the back and bondo over the front, if thats even possible.... (I WAS just gonna buy a little dinky tube of bondo from autozone, but hell at this rate i'm better off just getting a whole container... gotta fix this and a crack in the front fender, and dents in my faceplate... and whatever else i decide to use the stuff for...)

 

[jeep2003]

figure out where the hole goes and weld a washer on there.

 

[Mr.GhettoRig]

figure out where the hole goes and weld a washer on there.

was just gonna suggest that. would bondo work on top of it? this isnt really a project log... apparently i can't find my frickin way around this forum (even after i spend like 2 hours browsing around)... thought i was in the general minibike place....

don't worry hent, im gonna start paying attention now... it WONT happen again.. at least not for awhile :doah:

 

[The Restore Kid]

You can do about anything with bondo.. :laugh:

http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/project-logs/49680-another-miracle-trk-3.html

 

[oldfatguy]

you could cut it off with tin snips and reshape the end. you will never miss an inch off the end of the fender

 

[Mr.GhettoRig]

TRK I remember seeing that thread... I forgot you used bondo there.. depending on how much more $$$ the lager tube, can, whatever is.. ill get the larger one.. I have a feeling this stuff is gonna be my miracle puty for the next month or so. :thumbsup::laugh:ut:

and oldfatguy I was thinking about just shaving it where the chunk is gone, but with how easy this fix it, I figure its better to have it bolted on both sides.

what is a good way to fix a dent? theres a slightly noticeable bulge on my rear fender. i beat the hell outta my faceplate with a mallot, but I dont know if it'll have the same effect on the fender.

 

[jeep2003]

for dents in chrome sheet metal i usually lay a rag on the bench nice and thick lay the fender on it and a rag on the back where you hammer it. or even have a seat and use your thigh to back it up. a bit of persistence and youll have a smooth unscratched fender

 

[Mr.GhettoRig]

sweet ill try that when I get home tomorrow... any scratches can always be taken out with bondo LOL :innocent:ut:

 

[Modding_out]

for dents in chrome sheet metal i usually lay a rag on the bench nice and thick lay the fender on it and a rag on the back where you hammer it. or even have a seat and use your thigh to back it up. a bit of persistence and youll have a smooth unscratched fender

That sounds great, I'm sure it works well but that last time I started swinging a ball-peen hammer near my "nuts" it didn't end well......Now i can't find a 1/4-20 nut or a 9/16-18 nut any were, the whole tray went flying....Wait.. what were you thinking of?

 

[The Restore Kid]

You want to hammer out any dents and waves as good as possible before mudding them.. You want as little bondo as possible.. It is also just for covering and leveling stuff.. It is not very strong at all.. So using it like glue is not a good idea..

 

[Mr.GhettoRig]

would it work in holding a crack together? both fenders have a crack in them, they come together cleanly so I just gonna glaze over them and see if that would hold.. i mean c'mon its a fender its not like its gonna get major pressure put on it. (unless I wipe out :doah: )

 

[jeep2003]

That sounds great, I'm sure it works well but that last time I started swinging a ball-peen hammer near my "nuts" it didn't end well......Now i can't find a 1/4-20 nut or a 9/16-18 nut any were, the whole tray went flying....Wait.. what were you thinking of?

LOL dont wanna use a ball peen a hammer with a fairly flat head wont make dimples

 

[jeep2003]

would it work in holding a crack together? both fenders have a crack in them, they come together cleanly so I just gonna glaze over them and see if that would hold.. i mean c'mon its a fender its not like its gonna get major pressure put on it. (unless I wipe out :doah: )

No it wont last long at all. perhaps if you used the fiberglass reinforced bondo it might last a while longer but itll still crack.

 

[C9H13NO3]

would it work in holding a crack together? both fenders have a crack in them, they come together cleanly so I just gonna glaze over them and see if that would hold.. i mean c'mon its a fender its not like its gonna get major pressure put on it. (unless I wipe out :doah: )

Hmm.. I have an idea.

You need a crack fixed, I need an original rupp fender to copy the design off of.....

I have a welder, you have a fender....

I think we can work something out :thumbsup:

 

[The Restore Kid]

However a ball pean works great on tight corners, like a corner of a shroud smashed in.. :thumbsup:

Whatever you're beating on, you want a solid smooth surface to use as an anvil to hammer against... You can't hammer something flat, without something flat to hammer it to.. :hammer:

 

[Mr.GhettoRig]

Hmm.. I have an idea.

You need a crack fixed, I need an original rupp fender to copy the design off of.....

I have a welder, you have a fender....

I think we can work something out :thumbsup:

pm sent, stolen, returned, sent again, lost, eaten and digested by a platypus, found, and finally sent yet again. :thumbsup:

 

[Oldsalt]

Get a 'fender' washer at ACE Hardware. They are large diameter but have the proper sized hole. Or make an appropriate part from, say, 14 ga. steel. Locate the hole on the fender and mark and trim the large washer to the radius of the fender end. It will also be necessary to form the piece to match the contour of the fender. Remove all traces of galvanized on the washer and positioning it on the inside of the fender braze it in place. Or weld if you can without burning a big hole in the sheet metal. Wire brush and clean the area until it is clean, bright metal. Tin the area on the outside and then, using heat from a propane torch lead [or solder] up the area until the lead is higher than the outside surface of the fender. Vixen file and sand smooth. If there are any imperfections use body filler or red or green spot putty. If you use body filler rather than lead the bolt head will sink right into it.