Flash back to the 60s" Bonanza Mini bike

markus

Well-Known Member
#2
If you flash back to the 60's you've went to far :wink: Gotta put the brakes on when you hit 1970/71 to see that bike. It is a Bonanza MB 1210 original power for the centrifugal clutch version like yours was a Tecumseh H35 3.5hp. Currently a company called Coker tire has a goor repro of the 4.00x6" tires available like that had if you are doing a resto. If you have access to a media blast cabinet that the tire/wheel will fit in, I find I have the best chance getting the phillster head bolts to come free and not damage the bolt or more importantly the threaded halve If I glass bead around the head of the bolt and the threaded end on the other side real good to clean and dirt/rust I can off the threads etc.. You can even do an initial clean of the wheel and even tire at that point and get around the lip a little where tire meets the wheel.

Once cleaned up a little I use an impact driver and give a smack on the head to work them out, Some will pop easy if the threads are clean enough, if they bind I keep working them back and forth half/full turn a few times and try to work them out a little farther and repeat. Sometimes you cant avoid snapping a bolt in those wheels if they are really corroded, but getting those exposed thread really cleaned up and using an impact driver has put an end to any broken bolts for me on those particular wheels in the last few years.

I have assortment of automotive repair style prybars from screwdriver size on up, I use those to help break the tire loose, carefully wiggling one in between tire/lip as far as I can and then a little twist, gotta sometimes go all the way around as the corrosion can make the stick pretty good sometimes you just need to do it in a few point around the lip to get them move.

Good luck with it, looks like its in pretty solid shape and been hacked on.
 
#3
So far I have gotten all the bolts out of 4 sets of Bonanza wheels by using this.

Welcome to GIBBS Brand Lubricant

I applied it to one side and let it sit 24 hours then flipped the wheels and shot the other side. Another 24 hours and flip, wet, 24 hours, flip wet. Then tried to remove the screws. I had a couple of screws that took a couple more cycles to get to break loose but they all came out without damage.

Here is a thread I started on the Gibbs penetrant and everyone added their "secret sauce". Gives you lots of options. I have tried most of these options and all I use is Gibbs. They all work within reason, even the Gibbs but somethings are not willing to cooperate no matter what you use. You have to be patient with them and let them work before you attack the part.

https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/shop-tools/132760-gibbs-penetrent.html?highlight=Gibbs
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#5
[MENTION=5969]markus[/MENTION]

Just incase he doesn't know. Is this the style of "Impact Driver" you are referring to?

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Yes, Once you realize what one of those tools can do for you, wont want to be without one.....I have like 3 of them :laugh: My favorite is this old Snap on, I bought a Mac tools one (what the box and attachments are from) to use since the snappy is an antique but that old girl just works better and she's saved my ass a ton of times so it got the fancy box to sit in and the Mac Hit the spares drawer in my toolbox :laugh: Although the Mac came with really nice anti-vibe 2lb hammer in a tool truck combo deal that is the perfect mate for impact tool so it worked out well.

 
#6
Thanks for the advice , picked up a nice impact driver I'll let the wheel/screws soak over night with penetrating oil. I guess I could go a little larger in tire size any suggestions. Thanks for you help, mike
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#9
Markus, btw did that model only come in orange think if I painted bonanza blue be ok.
.
There was one similar to yours that popped up a few years back That was like a goldish-greeninsh color :shrug:, It was a factory original bike. Unfortunately your asking a legally color blind person and I see alot of colors VERY differently what they are. there are a few other members that probably know the color I am talking about, I lost the photos of that bike when I had a computer issue some time back though (along with alot of other great stuff)....It was not the gold that was used in the 60's on some models it was darker. I dont recall blue every being in use on the Scout lineup. Silver was used on the bigger wheeled MX ones (frame only), To me that does not look good unless its a full on remote tank bike though.

What is the bike you have on the crate in the background? I am taking a stab with Bultaco maybe.....am I even close :shrug:
 
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