Floating valves

#1
Hi guys. I have seen quite a few Tecumseh motors, horizintal 5-10HP, where the exhaust valve opens slightly during compression. So far I've just ground enough off of the valve stem so that it stays closed. Anybody got some advice?
Thanks,
 
#3
Thats got something to do with compression release for easier starting if i,m correct.mine do that too. If not I,m sure we got enough know it alls to correct me.
 
#5
I do not think I would grind down the exhaust valve stem to remove that slight lifting of the vavle. It will cause the exhaust valve not to open as much as it should when needed, It would be better to take out the cam and have that spot removed off the exhaust cam lobe. But I would not do it to one of my engines. Not fun when the pull starter rope/handle is ripe out of your hand when starting the engine.
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#6
Am I to understand that the exhaust valve closes and THEN opens slightly and THEN closes again during the compression stroke? Does it do that during the intake stroke?
 
#7
Both valves open and close normally, but about midpoint of the compression stroke, the exhaust valve opens .020" or so. I see no sign of a decompressor. Do all old (1970's-1980's) 5-10HP Tecumsehs have a decompressor? If so, how can I identify it and fix it?
 
#8
I've seen no evidense of a decompressor. Where is it? How do I fix it? After I grind the exhaust valve off so it remains seated during compression, the motors all run fine and impossible to tune carbs work just fine too.
 
#9
So you losing .020" of lift from the camshaft then?? It would seem to me that the component resposible for opening the valve (I.E. the cam/lifter) would be responsible. Now you have + .020" of valve lash. If it's ground into the cam, I've never heard of it. Definitely not how I would rectify the problem.:eek:ut:
 
#10
Not off of the camshaft, off of the valve stem. The same as you would do to get correct valve clearance. I've looked into this further today and there isn't a decompressor on any of these motors. Why the mysterous compression stroke valve lift?
 
#11
Its not on the cam lobe, or the lift would be during the exhaust stroke. The mystery lifting is midway during the compression stroke. The exhaust lobe is nowhere near the pushrod at this time.
 
#13
seems if it was at the midpoint of the compression stroke it would greatly reduce compression because it lets half the air out. If it was at the end of the intake stroke as the piston is at the bottom perhaps its to prevent a backfire or somthing. but it wouldnt effect compression so that would make the most sence
 
#14
Absolutely! That's why I noticed the floating valve in the first place. I was trying to fix my friends' 8HP Tecumseh on his snowblower. I couldn't get the carb adjusted right, engine wouldn't hold a smooth rpm, wouldn't idle right. I checked and the compression was around 60psi. I did a wet compression test and it was the same. Finally in frustration I popped the head off and as I turned the crank, I noticed the exhaust valve lift during the compression stroke. Since then I've seen the same problem on 6-8 other motors. it seems to be just Tecumseh because I haven't seen any B&S motors do it.
I'll bet if some of you guys take your high hour HM50-HM80 motors and remove the head, you'll see the same thing. Don't tell me they're only in Canada!!
 
#15
You need to think about this, just a tad bit more, :eek:ut: before you break out the power tools & start cutting away all halfast.

To build compression, both valves must be closed. If the valves are closed, what is the position of the camshaft & lobes? More importantly... Where are the tappets? Most likely sliding along the backside of the cam, or more commonly referred to as the base circle.

I believe that is where I would be looking for a strange little bump, instead of :grind: on the peak of the lobe or :hack: your valve shorter.

Anyone recall that old saying about, A little bit of knowledge...?
 
#16
Forgot to mention, that what you are seeing, is most likely a form of a compression release to assist in starting the engine.

Briggs engines use a different method.
 
#17
Well said JM. It could be weak springs as well, but doubtful. If you are grinding .020" off the stem of the valve that would increase the lash. If this was such a problem, I would think someone else in the small engine world would have discovered it as well?
I'm not disagreeing with you that it's happening, just trying to figure out why. Jm said it better than I could but i think he's on the right track.
 
#18
I do not think I would grind down the exhaust valve stem to remove that slight lifting of the vavle. It will cause the exhaust valve not to open as much as it should when needed, It would be better to take out the cam and have that spot removed off the exhaust cam lobe. But I would not do it to one of my engines. Not fun when the pull starter rope/handle is ripe out of your hand when starting the engine.
Thats what I thought, I guess I wrote it wrong.
 
#19
I agree, but so far I haven't seen the reason for the lift. Closer inspection of the camshaft might reveal the cause. Either way, every engine I've done sure runs sweet and crisp when I'm finished, but pull starting requires close attention and committment!
 
#20
E-Z start

The bump in the intake lobe you are talking about is a method of lowering the comp. so that some wimpy guys can start the engines, once the motor spins at a reasonable rpm you never notice the lack of compression. Briggs called it EZ start and still use it in their engines, if you take a brand new flathead and clearance the valves(set valve lash) on the intake to 16 thou. you will see the same thing as in a great increase in comp. and effort to turn engine over and in power. I'm not a tec. fan but i'm sure they use the same method.:thumbsup:
 
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