Flywheel question.
- Thread starter jt bradshaw
- Start date
- Tags flywheel question.
I can't believe the smart guys haven't answered your question, so I will. (grin)
You only need that fancy billet aluminum flywheel if you are going to turn excessive RPM- i.e., run the engine without the governor attached.
On a stock engine, the original flywheel is fine.
And to prove how much I have learned by simple osmosis, and not a bit of empirical knowledge, let me add that if you were to build this motor for more power, (increased RPM) you would need a billet flywheel, stronger valve springs, forged or billet connecting rod, cam, carburetion/intake and exhaust mods.
You only need that fancy billet aluminum flywheel if you are going to turn excessive RPM- i.e., run the engine without the governor attached.
On a stock engine, the original flywheel is fine.
And to prove how much I have learned by simple osmosis, and not a bit of empirical knowledge, let me add that if you were to build this motor for more power, (increased RPM) you would need a billet flywheel, stronger valve springs, forged or billet connecting rod, cam, carburetion/intake and exhaust mods.
Thanks Toys. I didn't realize it was the BSP bare bones. For the experts, (not me) here are the rest of the specs if (like me) you didn't bother to go over to OldMiniBikes, look under engines and figure out what he was talking about. LOL!
JT, the order form give you the opportunity to add a billet flywheel for a buck-o-five. That's what I'd do.
Select Your Flywheel
This engine comes without a flywheel. Add a billet steel or aluminum flywhel in the product options for safety when running higher RPMs. This flywheel is mandatory for BSP racing!
Max Stroke Crankshaft
Forged "Max Stroke" 2.130" +/-.002 Stoke Crankshaft with hardened journals
BSP-2 Cam
NEW BSP-2 Box Stock Cam pre-installed in engine
Ruxing Carb
Ruxing Carb with adjustable idle mixture screw No "chatter" carbs here
Piston Specs
Piston is .003" to .008" in the hole yielding a low 26.8cc to 27.2cc combustion chamber volume
High Flow Head Casting
JT, the order form give you the opportunity to add a billet flywheel for a buck-o-five. That's what I'd do.
Select Your Flywheel
This engine comes without a flywheel. Add a billet steel or aluminum flywhel in the product options for safety when running higher RPMs. This flywheel is mandatory for BSP racing!
Max Stroke Crankshaft
Forged "Max Stroke" 2.130" +/-.002 Stoke Crankshaft with hardened journals
BSP-2 Cam
NEW BSP-2 Box Stock Cam pre-installed in engine
Ruxing Carb
Ruxing Carb with adjustable idle mixture screw No "chatter" carbs here
Piston Specs
Piston is .003" to .008" in the hole yielding a low 26.8cc to 27.2cc combustion chamber volume
High Flow Head Casting
I couldn't agree more. But I would also order a Billet rod to go with it. Might as well make it a whole package.
That way you have a solid engine. I understand wanting the most HP for your buck, but honestly, I think everyone here has tried to cut corners, do things cheaply, and end up with either a poor running engine, or an engine that explodes.
That way you have a solid engine. I understand wanting the most HP for your buck, but honestly, I think everyone here has tried to cut corners, do things cheaply, and end up with either a poor running engine, or an engine that explodes.
The steel flywheel is good investment.
It was created as a discount way to improve the safety of these engines.
I believe it is rated at 9000 rpm....
The reason you don't see the GXV flywheel used much these days is the new Steel flywheels are cheaper.
Don't be confused about steel billet and stock!
The steel billet is a true racing part, its just cheaper than the older standards like the ARC billet.
PLV also makes and economy racing flywheel, Its good too!
http://www.betrammotorsports.com/po...age=0&osCsid=27ce58e6dce5ba28eb375f610aabd131
There are also some rival manufactures of billet steel flywheels ( these are all Chinese BTW, but they were ordered for racing and are safe )
It was created as a discount way to improve the safety of these engines.
I believe it is rated at 9000 rpm....
The reason you don't see the GXV flywheel used much these days is the new Steel flywheels are cheaper.
Don't be confused about steel billet and stock!
The steel billet is a true racing part, its just cheaper than the older standards like the ARC billet.
PLV also makes and economy racing flywheel, Its good too!
http://www.betrammotorsports.com/po...age=0&osCsid=27ce58e6dce5ba28eb375f610aabd131
There are also some rival manufactures of billet steel flywheels ( these are all Chinese BTW, but they were ordered for racing and are safe )
I have a flywheel story the motor that is on the super powell which is electric start has a stock HONDA flywheel on it . I have seen 8k riding it , now i was a little nervous . The motor came from NR racing and we were told by Russell that the HONDA flywheel would be fine at these RPM'S . Now i also posted on BOBS4cycle this ?? about the motor combo and flywheel and who built it and all the builders said it would be fine , and nobody had seen a HONDA flywheel come apart . I think if i hadn't of said who built the motor that the response would have been different .
You can't drop names or sources over at 4cycle because the "club" over there favors the site's sponsors and known builders.
Whatever flywheel you get, get a billet one.
They're not "rated" at all. They can be relied upon to hold together indefinitely at 4000rpm and below. That's it; any higher is outside of the intended use. I think ARC had one put on a spin test fixture and it didn't burst at 10k, but that was is no way representative of actual conditions.
Genuine Honda flywheels are simply less likely to burst than the Chinese junk and the Chinese ones do come unglued once in a while. Some racers think that just because they have never seen or had one do it, that it never happens. I never had my feet get blown off by an automotive driveline explosion, so those don't happen either. Don Garlits made it all up so he could sell rear-engine dragsters.
Whatever flywheel you get, get a billet one.
They're not "rated" at all. They can be relied upon to hold together indefinitely at 4000rpm and below. That's it; any higher is outside of the intended use. I think ARC had one put on a spin test fixture and it didn't burst at 10k, but that was is no way representative of actual conditions.
Genuine Honda flywheels are simply less likely to burst than the Chinese junk and the Chinese ones do come unglued once in a while. Some racers think that just because they have never seen or had one do it, that it never happens. I never had my feet get blown off by an automotive driveline explosion, so those don't happen either. Don Garlits made it all up so he could sell rear-engine dragsters.