Governer confusion - no jackshaft/torque?

#1
ok - i guess ive been confused all along.

when i got my 6.5, i took off the bulky lever assembly under the gas tank , which i thought was the governer.

so i did the same to the mb165. it had a lever assembly thing that was stopping how much throttle you can have.

is this not the governer? a governer is inside the motor??. f:censure:k that, im not gonna open the motor up!

What is the name of what i removed?

and instead of all this torque conversion, i saw a couple of replys about just using 1 chain from clutch sprocket to rear sprocket (not super fast at takeoff but can reach 40mph) after removing all the other sprocket shit. Is this true?
Do i need to flip clutch to align better when doing this?

I would rather do this than buy a torque converter.

Please some advice. I got the new tire on the way and i dont want to do too much more modding to this thing.
 

C9H13NO3

Active Member
#2
The governor is inside the motor. All you did was bypass the gov. Opening it up is easy, just some bolts. removing the gov all you need is pliers.
 
#3
What you removed is the governer arm, be carefull the shaft does'nt fall back into the engine or it will open itself up! I'd make damn sure I wanted it to stay off then cut it down and bolt it back on to keep the shaft in place, the little clip could be dislodged and in it goes! As for the jackshaft it is a torque converter of sorts and the gears can be changed for different performance needs! If you bypass it you will be going straight from the clutch to the sprocket and may need to align the two sprockets. I dont reccomend this as it is not neccessary, a gear change can completely change the performance and is the better option IMO there are warrior owners who could help you with the gear selection and explain it better! Good luck!
 
#4
Odds are all the parts internal to the governer are loose and in the bottom of the crank case at this point.

Open the motor and do it right or risk damage.

People should not remove or bypass governers.
 
#5
supernova: you said when removing arm, make sure shaft does not fall into engine?? I dont know what you mean. Nothing looks like its at risk of falling into anywhere. I attached a return spring to the throttle arm so it gets pulled to close, and then attached my throttle cable to the arm, so it can pull the throttle open. The gov assembly doesnt seem to hold anything from falling into the motor. Do you mean where the throttle arm actually comes out the top of the engine block?

Are you referencing my db30 6.5? or the mb165?

both have similar governer lever under gas tank.

I just followed intructions from a video on preparing your motor for mounting.

showed guy removing gov arm assembly and putting return spring and so-forth.

I have done this to two db30's? is this wrong?

The bikes seem to drive okay.

I have not opened up the motor itself to remove any interal parts.

Is this something i NEED to do? if so, why dont explain this in the videos.
 
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#6
Oldschool: removing governer arm assembly should not have disconnected any parts internally right? your acting like me removing the arm assembly has caused pieces to fall free in the motor? your freaking me out!

So i by-passed the gov? please some other advice on the subject would rock!
 
#7
the more reading im doing, the more scared i get.

my first db30, i took to a shop to have mechanic attach throttle cable.

He removed the gov arm assembly saying i didnt need it. (bulky, in the way)

so on my second db30, i did the same thing. removed it. put a new return spring and attached throttle cable to throttle arm.

ive seen people saying that they spot welded the shaft after doing this so something doesnt fall into motor?? what falls in? im confused as hell :confused:

i dont want my 6.5 db to blowup while im riding it!

and ive destroyed the gov arm assembly things to use for parts, so those aint goin back on.

Tell me im not losing my mind and that everythings gonna be okay!

give me pics of what exactly i need to secure so the bike doesnt fall apart
 

bandit 40

Active Member
#8
Go to Youtube and check out " Clone governor Removal " All the vidios will show you how to use the Govenor arm With or without your carb linkage. Or just take it out . This Is how I did mine with no experience REMOVING IT COMPLETLY IS THE SAFEST WAY BY FAR... :thumbsup::thumbsup: good luck Mark...........
 
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joekd

Active Member
#9
and instead of all this torque conversion, i saw a couple of replys about just using 1 chain from clutch sprocket to rear sprocket (not super fast at takeoff but can reach 40mph) after removing all the other sprocket shit. Is this true?
Do i need to flip clutch to align better when doing this?

I would rather do this than buy a torque converter.

Please some advice. I got the new tire on the way and i dont want to do too much more modding to this thing.
Dont do this, I tried it on mine and put it back after a day or two, you lose so much low end that the clutch is struggling

If you want higher top speed I have a 36T hop up sprocket for sale which includes spacers and new chain so it's a direct bolt on for the MB. this got me 34.9mph with gov still in place
 
#10
Oldschool: removing governer arm assembly should not have disconnected any parts internally right? your acting like me removing the arm assembly has caused pieces to fall free in the motor? your freaking me out!

So i by-passed the gov? please some other advice on the subject would rock!
Yes by removing the leaver from the governer arm you have effectively disconnected the governer from the linkage. Since you have not taken any pictures to show us what you did there is a lot of confusion.

Yes in all probability if you did what is sounds like and removed the external parts to the govern from your stock GX200 clone then you have loose parts swiming around in your crank case.

You should be freaked out a little. No offence man but you newbies realy need to sit down and do some research before you start stripping things.

Joe says use a different sproket for more top end, I would like to add a 20 inch tyre is an alternative
 
#11
Joe says use a different sproket for more top end, I would like to add a 20 inch tyre is an alternative
I swapped the 10t sprocket that goes to the 50t rear with a 13t sprocket giving me a 7.7 ratio which is a good all around combination for the bike. So I have 10t on the clutch to the 20t on the jackshaft, then a 13t to the 50t rear. It still has great low end take off and with a stiffer spring on the governor increasing rpm's its making anywhere from 33-35 mph.
 
#12
supernova: you said when removing arm, make sure shaft does not fall into engine?? I dont know what you mean. Nothing looks like its at risk of falling into anywhere. I attached a return spring to the throttle arm so it gets pulled to close, and then attached my throttle cable to the arm, so it can pull the throttle open. The gov assembly doesnt seem to hold anything from falling into the motor. Do you mean where the throttle arm actually comes out the top of the engine block?

Are you referencing my db30 6.5? or the mb165?

both have similar governer lever under gas tank.

I just followed intructions from a video on preparing your motor for mounting.

showed guy removing gov arm assembly and putting return spring and so-forth.

I have done this to two db30's? is this wrong?

The bikes seem to drive okay.

I have not opened up the motor itself to remove any interal parts.

Is this something i NEED to do? if so, why dont explain this in the videos.
What I meant was the little clip is all that is now holding the lever to the governer up! It wont just fall in unless the clip is removed or comes loose, which could happen while riding if something like a twig caught it just right! I would never have removed anything without having full knowlege of how it worked! I did stuff like that when I was younger only to hear my dad say "there you go performing brain surgery with limited knowlege of the brain"! Watch the instructions on youtube and go from there, make sure to remove everything and carefully go over it again to be sure! Going off half cocked will always result in a missed shot!
 
#13
There are washers, weights and moving parts inside the crank case. IF the governer arm is allowed to swing while th engine is running, the crank may hit the end of the governer arm. OR the small parts that are normaly held in place by the arm can slide out and fall off into the crank case.

If I have time I will take some pictures of these parts ( laying on the floor in my shed from the last clone I stripped )
 
#14
okay, i think the word governer gets mis-used alot

i removed these things in the pics which holds the throttle in a desired position. Removing these caused me to add a return spring to close the throttle on the motor.


I did not yet open my motor casing to remove the governer gear. The gear is held in place inside the motor casing against the wall of the casing by a cotter pin or sorts.

What i removed on the OUTSIDE of the motor did not loosen any internal parts. (like i said, the governer removal video on youtube shows the gear held in place by a cotter pin on the inside, how can this thing fall loose?)

My governer is still in place. i know this cause the motor only opens so much, then it backfires. If the governer gear was removed, or fell apart in the casing- i would have more top speed and i would hear shit clunking around in the motor case.

I do want to open my mb165 motor and remove that governer gear to increase the top speed, but my two db30 6.5's are fast enough even with the governer gear still in place.

So the things in the pics are not governers, they are throttle adjustment arms. you can keep these on, but i think they just get in the way.

I took them out of the loop and go throttle cable from bike handle direct to throttle arm on motor. ( i did have to rig a bracket to hold cable in place)

Remember, governer is INSIDE motor. Any comments on this?
 
#15
I give up.

Now I see parts that springs should have been attached too. Parts that hold the governer arm firmly against the weights and internal parts. From this I can only conclude the arm under your tank is flopping around free and things are loose in your crank case unless you did something to restrain this arm from moving ( the arm would move in a clockwise direction looking down from the top allowing the internal parts to slide off the shaft and drop out ).

No offence tinkering is how you learn but as you have noticed not a lot of the senior members are posting in these threads. Guys that realy know their stuff.....
I guess they have seen this so many times and heard it asked and debated they have simply given up. And now I take up my place with them on the group W bench.....
 
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#16
the arm you are talking about is not swinging around loosely clockwise. it only moves like half an inch one way or the other. Its held closed by a return spring. its either held closed, or when you turn the handlebar throttle, it opens the throttle. when you let go, it goes back to closed because of the return spring. I am not bypassing that arm and letting it swing around. I am still using it to open and close the throttle.

and again, if my governer fell apart inside, shouldnt my motor be opening up alot more? well , its not

in the youtube videos(govn removal), part 2 is about adding a return spring to hold that arm closed. thats all i did.

ive been going in and out of the garage the past 15 minutes checking and looking the bikes over and second guessing myself, but there is nothing loose.

and im still alive :laugh:

I am thankful for everyones help(senior members) and i am deeply sorry if i am becoming annoying. :innocent:
 
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