Help with crazy wild goat

Stsguy

Stsguy

New Member
#1
#1
Well as promised here are some pictures of my build. The model 600 is coming along just fine. The brand new Husqvarna LCT 208cc 6.5 hp Engine makes this thing move much faster than expected. As well as everything is going I do have a few issues.
We are rebuilding a trailer that will be painted in the same OD green military thing. The problem is I want to build a trailer hitch that is removable in the mounting location on the goat I don't want them to stand out and be an eyesore. With the center stand being in the way this makes for a tough design Or so it seems I just haven't came up with The right idea.
The small ammo can saddle bags also look amazing. i have not yet mounted them.. I really want to be able to remove the cans so they can be carried away from the bike. Not leaving big ugly mounts on the bike when the cans or not installed..

Those are just my cosmetic hurdles I need to jump. My to Mechanical Issues are as followed and the pictures you will see that there are 2 wires with a connector coming off the front of the motor When I check with my meter I'm getting 6 volts At idle and up to 12 v at high Throttle.. I want to charge a small battery and run led head light.. can I hook straight up and go??
Also this was a snow blower engine made to run at 2500 rpm so using a throttle i had to play with the springs on the gov.. should I remove the gear...? It seems to work ok this way..
 

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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#5
#5
Stsguy said:
Mechanical Issues are as followed and the pictures you will see that there are 2 wires with a connector coming off the front of the motor When I check with my meter I'm getting 6 volts At idle and up to 12 v at high Throttle.. I want to charge a small battery and run led head light.. can I hook straight up and go??
Click to expand...
Your engine is producing AC voltage. It will run incandescent bulbs as is. Dim at idle, getting brighter as you accellerate. It will run LED lamps as well, but the AC will produce a flickering effect. Some are better than others. You can not charge a battery with AC. Electrically, you will charge the battery as the AC sine wave goes to positive, and discharge it on the next cycle as it goes to negative. (Don't worry if that doesn't make sense)

So you need a rectifier to chop off the negative waves, which achieves a practical positive voltage. (Choppy DC) Any small engine rectifier will do, but if you are running it at full power a lot of the time, you will need a voltage regulator to prevent over charging. Or, you could run an incandescent head lamp to serve as a voltage regulator, but then why even have a battery.

Our friend @ole4 has some very good knowledge on this subject, and has experimented and made various combinations work. Also Google small engine rectifier voltage regulator for some options.
 
Stsguy

Stsguy

New Member
#7
#7
Richard Trotter said:
This is the original parts drawing for a Tote gote trailer hitch. It uses the kickstand as part of the hitch.. Maybe you could use some of these ideas to design your own hitch.
View attachment 274341
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So funny thing.. I stayed up thinking about all that nightmare I posted this. And cam up with an idea simular but also givers me a place for the cans.. this design is excellent and like the goat superior and simple. I did however want to keep the stand 9n all the time...but the engineer that did this??? Hats off.. I love simplicity..I can look at airstream for hours because of the same simple and super effective designs.. ill post soon what we did. Time is not of abundance and I'm sorry for taking so much time to think u for your reply
 
Stsguy

Stsguy

New Member
#8
#8
Havasu Dave said:
Your engine is producing AC voltage. It will run incandescent bulbs as is. Dim at idle, getting brighter as you accellerate. It will run LED lamps as well, but the AC will produce a flickering effect. Some are better than others. You can not charge a battery with AC. Electrically, you will charge the battery as the AC sine wave goes to positive, and discharge it on the next cycle as it goes to negative. (Don't worry if that doesn't make sense)

So you need a rectifier to chop off the negative waves, which achieves a practical positive voltage. (Choppy DC) Any small engine rectifier will do, but if you are running it at full power a lot of the time, you will need a voltage regulator to prevent over charging. Or, you could run an incandescent head lamp to serve as a voltage regulator, but then why even have a battery.

Our friend @ole4 has some very good knowledge on this subject, and has experimented and made various combinations work. Also Google small engine rectifier voltage regulator for some options.
Click to expand...
Thank u for the reply..I know this must be covered everywhere but simply finding time to post is hard right now. I did look at writing diagrams but I'm still a bit confused ...here's why.
I found a cheap rectifier.. 4 wire.
I have 2 coming from the engine. Pos. Neg. I see in diagrams they have 3 wire off the stator where I have 2. Am I over thinking? At this point a steadyhead lamp will be fine. No batt so any small engine wire rectifier?? 2 in from engine 2 out to light? Will this provide a somewhat steady beam of lite thru the throttle? .or will I need to buy more? Parts?? Lol thanks for any help sir.
Ps. I thought I had my fluke set on dc when I took the reading but it was 3am. Still haven't had time to get another reading since we tore back down for final paint..
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#9
#9
All you will see is two wires, if your kill switch wire is not incorporated in the harness from your alternator. In other words, in the only three-wire engines I am familiar with, one of the wires is the kill switch.

I know nothing about Husqvarna, and only made assumptions based on my overall knowledge. Excuse me for that. If the wires are coming right out of the engine, then it is doubtful they are coming off of a rectifier. Some engines are equipped with a single diode in one of the wires for battery charging. It's generally a lump you can feel in one of the wires.

It might be helpful if you took your model and serial number and cross reference to a manual. Or post it and I will attempt to figure out from afar.

Something else I would do is run the engine and measure across both wire leads at idle. Record the value and the polarity if you are using a digital meter. Setting is DC.

Now switch the leads. If it is DC coming out of the engine, the voltages will read exactly the same, only the polarity will change.

If it's AC, and we're still talking about a digital meter here, you will have two entirely different readings doing the above.
 
DaddyJohn

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#11
#11
desert rat said:
This is what I use on my street bike for the bag mounts. When the bags are off all you have is the studs on the bike.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gho...i13i395l3.17071j1j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
For my mini trailer hitch I used the repair kit for a draw tite sway control bar.
Click to expand...
The apparent profit margin on those is impressive!

Seems you could integrate the general design into your own ammo can without too much difficulty though.
A simple and inexpensive cam lock on the lid could probably swing over the stud to provide removable security.

Or, you could go with threaded studs and use wingnuts on the inside of the box if you wanted to go simpler.
 
D

desert rat

Well-Known Member
#12
#12
DaddyJohn said:
The apparent profit margin on those is impressive!

Seems you could integrate the general design into your own ammo can without too much difficulty though.
A simple and inexpensive cam lock on the lid could probably swing over the stud to provide removable security.

Or, you could go with threaded studs and use wingnuts on the inside of the box if you wanted to go simpler.
Click to expand...
You know I forgot what they cost until I looked them up. They have been on the bike 17 years. Just got to make some copies and run with it.
 
ole4

ole4

#13
#13
I am going out on a limb but all the other clone type engines just have lighting coils and the two wire output is AC. The test Dave told you to do with a meter is spot on and will tell you if the output is AC or DC. If AC ou can get these cheap rectifier/regulator assemblies like this pic very cheap on EBAY. Two wires connect to AC off the engine and the other two are the positive and negative wires with DC. Ground the negative and the positive powers the lights. Here is one on ebay. 12V FULL WAVE 4 PINS VOLTAGE REGULATOR RECTIFIER FOR DIRT PIT BIKE SCOOTER ATV | eBay The wiring color code is in the ebay add at the bottom.
 

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Stsguy

Stsguy

New Member
#16
#16
ole4 said:
I am going out on a limb but all the other clone type engines just have lighting coils and the two wire output is AC. The test Dave told you to do with a meter is spot on and will tell you if the output is AC or DC. If AC ou can get these cheap rectifier/regulator assemblies like this pic very cheap on EBAY. Two wires connect to AC off the engine and the other two are the positive and negative wires with DC. Ground the negative and the positive powers the lights. Here is one on ebay. 12V FULL WAVE 4 PINS VOLTAGE REGULATOR RECTIFIER FOR DIRT PIT BIKE SCOOTER ATV | eBay The wiring color code is in the ebay add at the bottom.
Click to expand...
CLICK THIS voltage
 
Stsguy

Stsguy

New Member
#17
#17
Havasu Dave said:
All you will see is two wires, if your kill switch wire is not incorporated in the harness from your alternator. In other words, in the only three-wire engines I am familiar with, one of the wires is the kill switch.

I know nothing about Husqvarna, and only made assumptions based on my overall knowledge. Excuse me for that. If the wires are coming right out of the engine, then it is doubtful they are coming off of a rectifier. Some engines are equipped with a single diode in one of the wires for battery charging. It's generally a lump you can feel in one of the wires.

It might be helpful if you took your model and serial number and cross reference to a manual. Or post it and I will attempt to figure out from afar.

Something else I would do is run the engine and measure across both wire leads at idle. Record the value and the polarity if you are using a digital meter. Setting is DC.

Now switch the leads. If it is DC coming out of the engine, the voltages will read exactly the same, only the polarity will change.

If it's AC, and we're still talking about a digital meter here, you will have two entirely different readings doing the above.
Click to expand...
Click here for voltage vid
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#18
#18
Saw your video. Yep, looks like you've got a rectifier already in that circuit. It is odd that your ground would be coming from a wire instead of using case ground, but you certainly changed DC polarity by swapping leads.

You'll need a voltage regulator to charge the battery if you find a 12 volt starter. Otherwise, you have enough voltage to run LED lamps I assume, not knowing what your alternator is rated at. Certainly you can run incandescent lamps. Seems like you know what you're doing. Might be time to experiment with LED headlamps. I know nothing about using them in these applications, but some of the guys have had great luck with them. Maybe get that starter motor worked out first, then the battery holder, switches, wiring, then lamps.
 
Stsguy

Stsguy

New Member
#19
#19
Havasu Dave said:
Saw your video. Yep, looks like you've got a rectifier already in that circuit. It is odd that your ground would be coming from a wire instead of using case ground, but you certainly changed DC polarity by swapping leads.

You'll need a voltage regulator to charge the battery if you find a 12 volt starter. Otherwise, you have enough voltage to run LED lamps I assume, not knowing what your alternator is rated at. Certainly you can run incandescent lamps. Seems like you know what you're doing. Might be time to experiment with LED headlamps. I know nothing about using them in these applications, but some of the guys have had great luck with them. Maybe get that starter motor worked out first, then the battery holder, switches, wiring, then lamps.
Click to expand...
Thank you for clarifying. All the talk about rectifiers I never thought that the motor would have I have one Built-in I certainly have never seen it in the past. 1st time Everything.. On the cool im about goated out. 12 to 15 hours Working in a hobby shop everyday back with another 8 to 10 on the im just gave out.. At 1 time of my life The goat would have been very valuable To me. I used to live In the piney woods of East Texas visited the Texas Hill country.Here lately I have been nothing more than a city Dweller.
When I seen this goat sitting in a garage in Oklahoma it called to me begging me to take it home and build it. Every time I get the notion that I am close to it being done the list grows. On one of those guys that can not stop and leave well enough alone I always have a new or better idea brewing..
I Will probably put it up for sale hoping to find a person that can put itTo good use. The last thing we did was to and close the sides with a heavy steel that is perforated with holes I have some small voltage regulators called a buck.It will allow me to have 4 to 40 volts in and I can regulate the out from 4 to 40 out this will keep me from over power ing but will see a dimmer light at idle with no battery. I woul need a voltage cut off if I added a battery I guess so not to over charge. I have too much in it now to add theb12v starter I found for 69 bucks. So regulator and led paintball what star on the side and find a home..
Thank u for the help I truly appreciate your time and efforts from all of yall that helped

Btw I paid too much for the metal from lowes but it was there.. it really looks great and you can bend this stuff
 

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