hs40 finished.

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anthonyg

Member
#1
#1
just finished a rupp hs40. new valves 1/32 over. seats cut with neway cutters. all new old stock parts except carburetor i used cheap china made. didn't fire it yet. maybe this weekend. a word of advice. if you buy a new old stock crank breather check the foam rubber element. i didn't. when i checked for compression it shot halfway out the breather in pieces. took half an hour to clean it out. hears some pics. anthony. IMG_0421.JPG IMG_0469.JPG IMG_0469.JPG IMG_0491.JPG IMG_0491.JPG IMG_0479.JPG IMG_0479.JPG IMG_0479.JPG
 
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anthonyg

Member
#3
#3
cfh said:
Looks great!
On the breather issue, i'm not quite sure what you mean... what happened? pictures?
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there is a small thin square piece of foam rubber in the crank breather. mine was dry rotted. when i checked it for compression and the piston was on the down stroke it spit out small chunks. anthony.
 
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anthonyg

Member
#5
#5
i really don't know. its a 70 rupp hs40 long rupp output shaft ball bearing on pto side. i bought it for the small lighted flywheel and round blower cover to put on my hs50. i put my square blower cover and large lighted flywheel on it so its not original any more. its kind of pretty. i guess i will admire it for a while. anthony. IMG_0434.JPG IMG_0448.JPG IMG_0452.JPG IMG_0469.JPG
 
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anthonyg

Member
#9
#9
1940Willys said:
So if it comes up for sale let me know I am in Western N.Y. Did you say where your Located? Did you Rebuild the inside at all?
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no the bore was perfect so i did not pull the side cover off. bore had not a single score mark and miked out at 2.265. i did however replace many parts. i bought a cheap stens coil points and condenser. the points did not come close to being alined. and the coil was dead on arrival. i sent them back. from that point on i tracked down new old stock parts. nos coil $ 48.00 1/32 oversized stem intake valve $ 43.00 1/32 over sized exhaust valve mutch cheaper than the intake $9.00. nos crank case breather. nos points and condenser. nos gasket set came with nice fat white carburetor and manifold gasket. and quality head gasket. i have the stens set its crap. i won'tput them in any motor i work on. i reamed the valve guides and cut the seats with a new set of neway cutters that i just bought. new jL17 plug. cheapo china made carburetor. price on originals are out of control. nos fuel petcock. nos gas line. i used rustoliumappliance epoxy gloss white paint. the forum states that it is the most gas and oil resistance rattle can paint. i think that covers it. anthony.
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#13
#13
anthonyg said:
no the bore was perfect so i did not pull the side cover off. bore had not a single score mark and miked out at 2.265. i did however replace many parts. i bought a cheap stens coil points and condenser. the points did not come close to being alined. and the coil was dead on arrival. i sent them back. from that point on i tracked down new old stock parts. nos coil $ 48.00 1/32 oversized stem intake valve $ 43.00 1/32 over sized exhaust valve mutch cheaper than the intake $9.00. nos crank case breather. nos points and condenser. nos gasket set came with nice fat white carburetor and manifold gasket. and quality head gasket. i have the stens set its crap. i won'tput them in any motor i work on. i reamed the valve guides and cut the seats with a new set of neway cutters that i just bought. new jL17 plug. cheapo china made carburetor. price on originals are out of control. nos fuel petcock. nos gas line. i used rustoliumappliance epoxy gloss white paint. the forum states that it is the most gas and oil resistance rattle can paint. i think that covers it. anthony.
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see how expensive it is to put these together anymore:confused:......and that was just a top end refresh not even a rebuild! No rod, seals, bearing, rings, and or possible piston assy honing, or the typical wear pieces such as the governor shaft/rod and gear lifters, camshaft, etc, add that stuff to the mix and your taking out a 2nd mortgage :eek:
 
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anthonyg

Member
#14
#14
markus said:
see how expensive it is to put these together anymore:confused:......and that was just a top end refresh not even a rebuild! No rod, seals, bearing, rings, and or possible piston assy honing, or the typical wear pieces such as the governor shaft/rod and gear lifters, camshaft, etc, add that stuff to the mix and your taking out a 2nd mortgage :eek:
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anthonyg

Member
#15
#15
markus. the small parts really add up fast. a lot of the sellers don't really know what they have. mchenry power equipment deals sent me the wrong ream. invoice said 9/32 it was actually 11/32. i called them and they said take it up with eBay custumer service. i wound up buying two pilot reamers. first one takes you from 0.2470 to 0.265 second one takes you from 0.265 to 0.2812 the reamers were expensive but worth it to do a proper job. the rostolium appliance epoxy dose not lay down like your glass smooth paint. on my hs50 im going to have it powder coated. i want it as nice looking as yours. markus i was trolling the web and came up with this beautiful hs40. i have never seen one like it. could you tell me what it is. it looks kind of modern. maybe tecumsehs last gasp. again thanks for your guidance anthony. s-l1600-2.jpg
 
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cfh

Well-Known Member
#17
#17
I don’t know how you guys end up spending so much money. Up north snowblower motors are readily available. I just picked up an HS50 for $50 that the crosshatch was still in the bore. The ring gap was .012.

I to use the rustoleum spray can paint. But I’ve also tried clear coating it with another spray can product sem 40903 which is $20, and it gives that nice gloss look out of a can, if that’s what you want (can go right over the rust oleum). Seals and gaskets are cheap. Frankly I don’t put in new points. I just re-grind the original ones. Obviously you need a new condenser though.

With the 245 Dino grind cam, you don’t need new valve springs. I run my machines with a torque converter so I’m probably not turning over 5000 RPM at most anyway. new Dyno rod is $65. I grind my own cams so that doesn’t cost anything. I can have all the sheet-metal powder coated for about $25.

The only more expensive item is if you want an alloy fly wheel. Those are a little hard to find and generally cost $50-$75. But to be honest, I don’t see a huge difference between a steel fly wheel and an alloy one. just make sure the magnets are well glued to the fly wheel.

I always remove the governor. So don’t have to deal with that. I use an inexpensive 16 mm or 22 mm slide carb which are about $20. I make my own intake for them. All that stuff is cheap. I think when I’m done I’m well under $250, even with a new rod. And for as little as I actually ride these things, that will last me three lifetimes
 
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anthonyg

Member
#18
#18
the cost on this was so hight because i desperately wanted the small lighted flywheel and round blower cover. i paid an incredible $465.00 plus shipping. came to $505.00 I never intended to build this engine up. i just wanted the parts i needed. being that i bought the tools to do my hs50 and had a correct muffler and fuel tank and brackets i could not resist the temptation. you say you pay $25.00 for powder coating. i sent pictures of my parts and got a quote of $245.00 and there already stripped to bare metal. i hope im not broke by the time i figure all this out. the only way to learn is read this forum and listen to the select few i trust. and of course hands on experience. im having to mutch fun to quit right now. thanks for the input anthony.
 
markus

markus

Well-Known Member
#19
#19
anthonyg said:
markus. the small parts really add up fast. a lot of the sellers don't really know what they have. mchenry power equipment deals sent me the wrong ream. invoice said 9/32 it was actually 11/32. i called them and they said take it up with eBay custumer service. i wound up buying two pilot reamers. first one takes you from 0.2470 to 0.265 second one takes you from 0.265 to 0.2812 the reamers were expensive but worth it to do a proper job. the rostolium appliance epoxy dose not lay down like your glass smooth paint. on my hs50 im going to have it powder coated. i want it as nice looking as yours. markus i was trolling the web and came up with this beautiful hs40. i have never seen one like it. could you tell me what it is. it looks kind of modern. maybe tecumsehs last gasp. again thanks for your guidance anthony. View attachment 254684
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Its a late 1980's that's been converted to recreational done in white and older decaling on it (placed incorrectly I might add). I have built a few like that, you have to use that shroud style with electronic ignition to clear the coil pack. I Have a new in the box full Chrome kit for that era engine in my office closet right now :cool: and I have some lighting systems and ball bearing late model parts so I will be building a few more of them one of these days.

They made recreational engines well into the 90's for the HS, and into the 2000's on the small H. But the flag decaling ended in 1978 and the recreational maed engines just got whatever the decals were at the time.
 
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cfh

Well-Known Member
#20
#20
I go to a powder coder that does high volumes in black. And he’ll sandblast and paint in either flat, semi or gloss black for $20 to $30 ( depending on his mood) for all the parts on a motor.

On your decal placement I think Mark was referring to the oil decal being in the wrong place. But I’m with you, I will often put it there. It depends on the motor. If I’m using a front mount gas tank I will usually put the decal where you put it. If I’m using a remote gas tank then I’ll put it in the proper place. The flag logo might be just a little bit low. But I don’t think anybody’s going to give you any heat about that!

You did a really nice job it’s a really good looking motor. I mean it’s not my style in that I think the paint seems way too shiny and way too thick. But man it sure does look good!

If you really want a light I guess you got to spend the money for the fly wheel and magneto. What I found is that people sell junk mtd minibikes and throw in the old Tecumseh motor, and you can usually rob those lighting parts on the cheap
 
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