HS40, the early revisions

markus

Well-Known Member
#1
Ahh the beloved HS40, for the last few years I have wanted a first year HS40, only because I was curious about it. Recently I found one on ebay for a shipped price that was reasonable enough to take a risk on. Its actually an Ariens snowblower setup that will need some converting, but in reality thats a good thing especially with these early blocks.

Lets start here, Tecumseh started to produce/offer the HS40 for 1968 (seen here in this photo, note the Issued date for the parts book top right)



Also note all the specification numbers.....that's just from dec 1967-1979 :laugh: Lots of little variations and changes made them make another engine number by either making a new one entirely or simply updating existing numbers by upping the Letter at the end (55xxx A,B,C,...etc.)

why is it called and "HS" and Not an H like all the others? Tecumseh already had an H40 in play, the lineup in the mid 60's ranged from H25-H70. The already used "H40" it was based off the larger "medium frame" sized engines. The new 4hp was based off the "small frame" engines and overall dimensions matched the 2.5-3.5hp engines. H stands for horizontal and the S stands for small, same reason the punched out even more to 5hp version they came out with for 1972 was called an HS50, as the H50 was already taken.

Why is the exhuast on the right (near the shroud)? Most likely an effort to reduce heat, In reality they started by basically trying to bore and stroke the small frame block, probably by omitting the steel sleeve that the H25-35 got and changing the valve seat insert. the 1968 into 1969 blocks were very different than the later more typical blocks and looks like they were trying to get them to keep cool.

For reference far left is a mid year 1968, middle is just about on year later according to the numbers 1969, right is ten days later 1969-1970 version engine (they used that same spec number for about a year as there were no revisions...it is from a Fox mini bike)



Can you spot some of the changes? You should see that the 1968 at that angle you could mistake for an H25/35. Has no stater mount lug on the case, and full air divertor around the front. The center 1969 has bigger fins on the top of the block and revised divertor shroud to match, but still has the small H25-35 head on top, right side they finally got their shit together and stuck a larger head with a wider bolt pattern on to match the block :laugh:

Another major difference that only lasted about a year and half was the shroud, left is the 1968 right is the revised shroud. All the shrouds for the small frame engines were like on the left smooth transition up to the head bolts, The change to the more commonly seen shroud with the pressed in line happened to add some space to fit the now larger head and bolt pattern The HS engines got, They universalized the bolt holes so all the small frames regardless of size could use the updated shroud to simplify production which ran until 1974/early 1975 on the H25/35 and HS40 engines.



Underneath the shrouding you can see that while they started with just the same fin design on the PTO side, under the shroud they popped out the fins pretty far in hopes to keep it running cooler. (left is an H35 block for comparison)



This shot shows the added "hump" to the case compared to the H engine case, This was added for clearance of the larger crank the HS got.



shot of the fin area change. I have to think that they maybe had a production issue with the larger head or something to that effect in 1969, as you can see even though this one has the small bolt pattern head, The block was cast with larger bolt pattern in mind.




a shot of the head difference from the small to large pattern



Interesting thing about the above engines is the serial numbers between them are only like 10 days apart. The small head engine is in fact a snowblower though, where a little more Heat may not have been a bad thing, It did come with the new style shroud factory so that leads me to think that maybe they either had a shortage of the larger heads and maybe for a short period were making due on cool weather specific engines or something to that effect.

Once they got to it to the mid 1969 large head/fins they actually kept the block pretty much the same right to the end. Little things changed but you can actually still use a late model bare block with older 1970s parts.

something that are giveaways that its a newer block if you do use one this way is the starter mount is drilled and tapped and the top 3 fins are a little thicker. the later they get the rougher the casting as well, one shown below is a 1990 and its casting is on verge of being noticeable. everything else though will be mostly concealed underneath the shrouding.


 
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#2
Excellent contribution! Before I go back to re-read this material I have a basic question. Did you see my post on the Tecumseh "sticky" Carb Number Stamping Guide? I was not able to get any info out of that thread as to how to decode build dates. Could you share how to make sense out of the 3-character alpha-numeric date on the engine tag?
 
#3
Interesting and valuable write up Markus. Were there any modifications on the H line from the early 60's Tecumseh purchase of Lauson until the advent of the HS line? If not, it would explain a lot towards their motivation of creating an HS line.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#4
Interesting and valuable write up Markus. Were there any modifications on the H line from the early 60's Tecumseh purchase of Lauson until the advent of the HS line? If not, it would explain a lot towards their motivation of creating an HS line.
I think they actually bought/took over Lauson in mid/later 50's and yes there were a lot of changes with them, but they were all kinda based off that same basic design that Lauson created. They had some neat things on the early engines, like oil pumps and things like that, you can still find remains in castings of sidecovers sometimes. What we are typically used to seeing in the mini bike world basically started in 1962 they sold an H22-25-30-35. The H22 didnt last too much longer as far as I know maybe like 65'. The H25 was also dropped before the 1975 changeover to steel flywheels.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#5
Excellent contribution! Before I go back to re-read this material I have a basic question. Did you see my post on the Tecumseh "sticky" Carb Number Stamping Guide? I was not able to get any info out of that thread as to how to decode build dates. Could you share how to make sense out of the 3-character alpha-numeric date on the engine tag?
a carb stamping is not like engine tag numbering, so thats not going to help you, and no I dont know the answer to how to decode the date on a carb body. You can maybe take the first few digits, cross reference them to the carb number like is explained in that thread and then cross that with engines that used them to get an idea/narrowed down.
 
#6
Wow, great info Markus! You are absolutely correct about the casting changes in the later model years--I had a bike with an 89 H35, and it was a rough casting as is the 90 HS50 on my Gilson. The HS40 on the Ruttman was a nice finish as do the two H60s I have (69 and 70). Obviously, they switched to a coarser sand for the cope and drag or match plate pattern.

Now that you've done this, I'll need to point out the differences between the 64 and 74 Briggs 3 hps I'm doing.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#8
Wow, great info Markus! You are absolutely correct about the casting changes in the later model years--I had a bike with an 89 H35, and it was a rough casting as is the 90 HS50 on my Gilson. The HS40 on the Ruttman was a nice finish as do the two H60s I have (69 and 70). Obviously, they switched to a coarser sand for the cope and drag or match plate pattern.

Now that you've done this, I'll need to point out the differences between the 64 and 74 Briggs 3 hps I'm doing.
Yea I dunno if that's a cost cutting measure, a way to gain surface area for heat dissipation, or what.
They still come out pretty decent depending on how you paint, I still pulled off a pretty decent finish on a '94 H35 I did earlier in the year, it came out better than I thought it would for only being the color coat on the block. Anything much later than that though "forgiddaboutit" those are the Edward James Olmos years :laugh:

before (yes, someone did in fact stick the fuel tank air deflector between the head and the block....and ran it that way :doah:)


during


after-I faked an early HS50 style engine tag (but used the original numbers from the engine), made a dog leg header, and used the late 80's recoil shroud to give it a sort of 70's look :wink:)

 
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markus

Well-Known Member
#11
Great informative thread. Where are you finding all these tec engines? It always seems you have a benchfull of them.
typical places (ebay,craigs,OldMiniBikes classifieds) My garage is really small actually, theres usually a bench full because there's nowhere to put them :doah: The clutter is killing me though, and I cant get anything done! I started early on my new years resolution and spent 3 days this week cleaning out and sorting Tec parts and engines in bins and by size so I can start to get some redone and out of here. I banished all the Briggs engines and boxes of parts for them out to the shed to make some working space and to stay focused on the Tecumseh's :laugh: I can only do that for a few months though, once hurricane season approaches that rickety old shed has to get cleaned out of anything good.....Just my wifes stuff stays out there :devil2:
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#12
Got the 2 early HS40 engines finished from this thread:

Before:
(left 1968 small block/small head, right 1969 block size increase around cylinder but still small head/small bolt pattern, and addition of starter mount block)


(have not touched the one on the far right yet:doah:)


after:

Left is still the first version 1968 that I just finished paint and decaling last night, right is the 2nd block revision 1969 which I finished last week.








They both run good (I run them in before paint to check for problems) I will say that the 1968 does feel like it runs warmer, and that may just be the way it deflects the air since you feel more of it coming around and out the side due to design. I dont really notice it as much on the 69, I didn't take any temp readings to verify though.

Both of these engines were originally off snowblowers, neither of them had any time on them, even though the 68 looked like ass. They have both been converted to the "mini bike" configuration of that time period which predates dog leg mufflers and things like that. The tankless '69 engine got a lighting system and the '68 had to get the sidecover and cam swapped out to single PTO but I still used a mechanical compression release cam in it. Also used an aircleaner top with the rain/dustcover. They were listed as an optional/upgrade item in the Tec Mini bike engine brochure around that time.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#14
SBH replacement long blocks early versions

Thought this would be fitting to add to this thread as this is an early version SBH replacement block from 1973 for standard horizontals. Its NOS and this is how it came from the factory :thumbsup:





As you can see the early SBH's were in fact painted, but all the way around since the shrouds were not on the block whn they got painted. Also note that it has a head on it. Reason for that is of course that the first year and half they were using the smaller bolt pattern H35 head as stated and shown earlier in this thread. So in order to cover all bases they supplied the engine this way as they dropped that block design entirely. This one is a 200D and what a typical flat mounted mini bike HS40 of the time would have came with. Another neat thing is it came with (and I dont know why) 5 of the special unobtainable rivet pins that hold the tags to the shroud. Again no rhyme or reason for that but I'll take em' !!!!!!



I had bought a Beat down Black widow some years back that had an SBH on it, It was in fact factory painted as well but in black, you could tell a slight color difference in the bolt-ons compared to it after a clean up. That one did not come with a head, there was no reason with that engine since the Rupp style BB slanted engines were built post small head. (SBH id tag is on the front top sidecover bolt) so they didn't include them.



That engine, should you ever come across some SBH's in someones old stock, were SBH-263A. The SBH on the BW above was dated 1980 When you got into the later 70's and into the 80's They show the "off the shelf" HS40 for slanted applications coming stock with the longshaft 33080 ball bearing cranks seen here below from this 1980 engine specs catalog:




While this one below actually an HS50 replacement block, This would still apply to later built "SBH" blocks for the HS40 too in style. This is a 1994 built SBH but for an early (pre 1981) application. As you can see the block has the solid state ignition lugs on it, but it does in fact have the early taper crankshaft installed that only worked with points flywheels. As a bonus this one is a Ball bearing model, and is the correct replacement for true Mini bike/kart (HS50 engines only for that). So they still made SBH replacements that would work for the early stuff, but they built them with the latest/current parts where ever they could.




Its important to remember to utilize the SBH numbers when looking for parts over the actual tag on the shroud on any of the Tecumseh engines. Since parts design were updated constantly you may just order the wrong internal parts! If you have and old mini with with an SBH tag on it, just cause its it all painted doesnt mean that its all "original". :thumbsup:
 
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delray

Well-Known Member
#16
markus,this is going to throw your theory off with the 68 covers being smooth on top and no starter mount.
here is a engine with a smooth top and has a starter mount.





it was missing the ID tag,thinking it's a very late 68 motor/early 69


and it does have the wider fin's
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#17
markus,this is going to throw your theory off with the 68 covers being smooth on top and no starter mount.
here is a engine with a smooth top and has a starter mount.





it was missing the ID tag,thinking it's a very late 68 motor/early 69


and it does have the wider fin's
cool :thumbsup: Thanks for adding that info. Too bad you don't have the numbers off it to see how they fell in between the 68 without the starter lug and 69 small head engines I had done in this thread. Could have maybe got an indication of when the starter lug started to show up.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#18
markus,when I get a chance I will look at my other HS-40'S and see if I have anymore odd HS-40'S. I have at least 15 or more Hs-40's from 68-73. the engine I posted just happen to be a hs-40 I was building and notes the smooth cover and starter mount. I have not got a chance to post anything yet on this build. I am doing some crazy stuff to it that has not ever been done to theses little guys before. hopefully with time permits and everything works out I can post more about...:thumbsup: on a different note I look at a HS-40 recoil yesterday that was date code 1976 the 70-day made. painted white with crossflags. never seen a 76 crossflags engine before....:shrug: unfortunately I did not take a picture of it. my couisin chatten63 as this cover. maybe he will chem in and post it...:thumbsup:
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#20
couple more for you markus.

engine on the left is date code 68 and engine on the right date code 69 with a smooth top
note that both covers are smooth and the left one has just a round hole on top and the 69 is slotted.

68 appears to have long finns too,need too take the cover off and double check.



69 engine


68 has a smooth heat shield over the recoil and the 69 has a hole on top of it. just like my engine had. so I kind of wonder if my engine is a 69 and I have the slotted hole on top of the cover just like the date code 69 engine.
all these little things they had to change over the years....:doah:
 
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