Is heating/bending the handlebars my "best" option?

#1
Grabbed a DB30 Dirt Bug over the weekend.

The handlebars come straight up, straight up from the forks, at the axle, to where they bend for the actual grips...
They are perfect, with no bends from wear & tear (abuse), so I'm looking for the most cost effective, yet smartest way to have/make the handlebars go forward, so I can actually ride it??

I thought about heating/bending the bars forward, but don't want to ruin them.

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#2
Take them off and clamp the uppers to a strong heavy table. Leave the tire on to keep the lowers parallel and just push down to bend the bars at the edge of the table. I straightened the forks on one of these this way some time back and they bend like butter with just a little leverage. You will be surprised how easy it will be.

Place the front side of the bars on the table and clamp them down securely with a 4x4. Leave the top fork plate a couple of inches off the edge of the table so they will bend between the plate and the table. You can use another 4x4 or 2x6 and insert it between the fork plates (triple trees) and pull forward and down gently. It really wont take much to move them a lot so try them a couple of times. And you wont need to heat them and repaint them by doing it this way.

Here is how I straightened my forks with the frame still attached. It didn't have an engine so it was easier to just leave it all assembled. Same DB30 as yours.





Doug
 
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#3
Take them off and clamp the uppers to a strong heavy table. Leave the tire on to keep the lowers parallel and just push down to bend the bars at the edge of the table. I straightened the forks on one of these this way some time back and they bend like butter with just a little leverage. You will be surprised how easy it will be.

Place the front side of the bars on the table and clamp them down securely with a 4x4. Leave the top fork plate a couple of inches off the edge of the table so they will bend between the plate and the table. You can use another 4x4 or 2x6 and insert it between the fork plates (triple trees) and pull forward and down gently. It really wont take much to move them a lot so try them a couple of times. And you wont need to heat them and repaint them by doing it this way.

Here is how I straightened my forks with the frame still attached. It didn't have an engine so it was easier to just leave it all assembled. Same Db30 as yours.





Doug
Wow, I didn't think they'd be that easy to bend...
Thanks for the reply.
 
#4
Wow, I didn't think they'd be that easy to bend...
Thanks for the reply.
They will bend way easier than you think when you apply leverage to them. That is why I said a little at a time. Check them by putting them back on the bike. Bend a little more if needed. Just try to not over bend them and then have to unbend them. Never works as well.....

Doug
 
#6
They will bend way easier than you think when you apply leverage to them. That is why I said a little at a time. Check them by putting them back on the bike. Bend a little more if needed. Just try to not over bend them and then have to unbend them. Never works as well.....

Doug
When a tube is bent (cold), it becomes work-hardened in the bend; when you try to unbend it, it will tend to bend in another area where the tube is softer.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Work_hardening
 
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#7
When a tube is bent, it becomes work-hardened in the bend; when you try to unbend it, it will tend to bend in another area where the tube is softer.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Work_hardening
That was my point about not over bending them Charles.... And it would take a lot more than what he is going to bend and then you could unbend it again and then bend it once more and it would not truly even begin to be work hardened. Was that a run on sentence???? When metal work hardens it will show cracks in the surface from the fatigue. Pretty easy to recognize.


Your suggestion of bolting on a set would give the option of any bar and any weight or width. Unlimited choices that way.

My suggestion was an answer to heating to bend. Didn't even think about what you suggested. I like the idea though. :thumbsup:

Doug
 
#8
That was my point about not over bending them Charles.... And it would take a lot more than what he is going to bend and then you could unbend it again and then bend it once more and it would not truly even begin to be work hardened. Was that a run on sentence???? When metal work hardens it will show cracks in the surface from the fatigue. Pretty easy to recognize.
I was just adding a bit of info. Work hardening will occur, to a degree, with just one cold bending, and increase with each bending/unbending (cold).
 
#10
Thanks a lot for those links...If this bending idea ends up not being enough, that's the route I am going...

I forgot that we have pipe benders all over the place here. I work in the same building as an industrial electric company.

I simply had one of the helpers here work the bender, while I sat on the bike holding everything steady. We made roughly 5 small bends on each, and you can barely tell the bars were touched...so far, I am pleased with the results. I can actually ride it now. :smile:
Well, about 3 laps around the building before the dry chain broke... :doah:

I ended up at roughly @ 5.5" of forward bend :thumbsup:
 

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#11
Thanks a lot for those links...If this bending idea ends up not being enough, that's the route I am going...

I forgot that we have pipe benders all over the place here. I work in the same building as an industrial electric company.

I simply had one of the helpers here work the bender, while I sat on the bike holding everything steady. We made roughly 5 small bends on each, and you can barely tell the bars were touched...so far, I am pleased with the results. I can actually ride it now. :smile:
Well, about 3 laps around the building before the dry chain broke... :doah:

I ended up at roughly @ 5.5" of forward bend :thumbsup:
That's a good bit, in minibike terms; should make quite a difference. :thumbsup:
 
#12
Charles, you're a wealth of useful information. [emoji106] What a great idea. Can't believe Monster Moto sells the riser for only .39 cents.


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