Quick question... we all know the bad parts about not having billet parts.... but how many people on this forum actually got there sac stabbed from flying debris? Not the "i heard about a guy, or the friend of a freind of a friend story". Id like to know... what motor and what was installed when it let go...and what you were doing in the moment.. like high speed passes.. or trail riding, hill climbing. Just a little study im doing with myself... but as for education for the hardheaded.
Just a quick question.............
- Thread starter Bdmitsu
- Start date
- Tags question............. quick
I have a permanant scar in my side from a rod going through the block and hitting me at 45mph on a go kart. It felt like a gunshot. I have also seen in person the effects of a flywheel ''letting go'' on 3 motors motors. All occured before billet parts were available. Its just common sense to protect yourself or someone you care about riding a mini.
Before billet parts were avail he said. That would mean cheezy is old school. Meaning he paved the way for us being able to get a billet rod for $59. A stock Honda rod before billet was avail was way more than $59! So take advantage of the progress! High RPM and high compression means billet rod and flywheel.
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/h...nor-your-engine-OldMiniBikes-please-read.html
That page has some examples on it, and trying to dance around the subject of removing the governor without the proper parts is covered there also
That page has some examples on it, and trying to dance around the subject of removing the governor without the proper parts is covered there also
Well my basis for wanting to know... to see if one block orig. Or clone was better than another.. and what parts were on a engine that went boom! Not to discuss why we need them.. i just want def. Info from a person involved. Knowledge is the key ... a person can tell me it happens everyday.. but there is nemerous ways a engine can throw a rod.... like a muddy rut filled with water... im just trying to make a list of failures so i can see it out on paper. (
Hey my bike runs.... im not asking how to bypass anything.. or have i.... im just asking a simple question. I know im nobody to you.. but the information you pass on may help better in the long run. I wanted to make a speadsheet of failures to see what might be the defining issue on what kills these things. Not much like the engines i work on everyday. But i think a answer would be good enough. Not remarks like been there done that...because ive been tnere and done that on forums before... now that being said. Ive been watching and doing for a bit now on this forum.. and id love to be a part of it.. but im not going to ask a question that wastes my time following ..or you time answering.
Ok, let's say you have a point, and you poll; say every small engine shop in North America, your list will start with say a half horse going up to say 20 hp. You will list every major brand, with mutliple sizes and a few common clones. What you will find is that when any brand or model is ran without it's manufacturers governor, some engines in that series will fail. Some more some less, some get reported and some get tossed. The data might just show some interesting patterns, but it will show that none, absolutely none are immune. That is the precise engineering fact that put the governor in there in the first place. Your data will prove that governors were the one thing that the manufacturers could not cheap out on because they all need them !
Having said that I support your effort, I can forward you the names & address' of small engine shops in my area.
PS: No scars on my legs.
Good luck !
Having said that I support your effort, I can forward you the names & address' of small engine shops in my area.
PS: No scars on my legs.
Good luck !
Your here for free in the man's site. If I were you I would respect his rules. Go somewhere else where they don't have any rules if it is that important. There are enough examples of what happens to a ungoverned lawn mower engine in that link to see what CAN happen. Here is another one for ya. The pic with the blue jeans and blood and tissue should be enough. But probably not in your case.
Results of a cast iron Kohler flywheel when spun well above 4,000 rpm
Results of a cast iron Kohler flywheel when spun well above 4,000 rpm
All i wanted to do was to be able to say... buy a pred.. or dont.. and why.. this is there track record. Do they fail earlier than lifans and why. Or vise versa. I understand a engine very well.. and granted these are alot smaller then what you drive everyday.. i do know in my line of work what to get and what to stay away from....
Where's Newoldstock? Stop tanning leather for a tabacky pouch and tell the story of a honda rod costing more that a Predator on sale today!
I've learned alot on this site. Mostly that regardless of anything that high rpm will blow a motor. And that a ARC billet rod is a gift from God and a product of the old school that came before. Removing a gov being some sort a crime and putting your life at risk is overboard. I'm not interested in 3,600 RPM but 8,000 RPM takes a large nutsack to do. IMHO
I've learned alot on this site. Mostly that regardless of anything that high rpm will blow a motor. And that a ARC billet rod is a gift from God and a product of the old school that came before. Removing a gov being some sort a crime and putting your life at risk is overboard. I'm not interested in 3,600 RPM but 8,000 RPM takes a large nutsack to do. IMHO
IMO on my very old GX160 that didn't have a governor on it for a long time before I read on here results of others. :censure:
But I have been looking at the gx160 and my Predator flywheels and the gx160 is better epoxied onto the flywheel than the predator. I don't know of the gx200's altho.....and I have read that some think it is that magnet getting loose and hitting the coil to make the flywheel come apart.
Plus with both of them only having 1x screw holding it on too.... :facepalm:
BUT IMO and only IMO....most of the flywheels that came apart MAY had been 1/2" air impacted on instead of torquing to 54 lbs with a piston dead stop or repeataly started with a remote starter on the crank nut. 1/2" air guns can go up to 90+ Foot lbs....
That will push the the flywheel onto the crank taper harder than needed and start a stress riser from the machine key way groove.
Personally, I now have both alum flywheel and rods in my 2x engines and more....
I did think of using a bunch of Kevlar bullet proof vest material here to wrap my flywheel housing like a scatter shield but....
But I have been looking at the gx160 and my Predator flywheels and the gx160 is better epoxied onto the flywheel than the predator. I don't know of the gx200's altho.....and I have read that some think it is that magnet getting loose and hitting the coil to make the flywheel come apart.
Plus with both of them only having 1x screw holding it on too.... :facepalm:
BUT IMO and only IMO....most of the flywheels that came apart MAY had been 1/2" air impacted on instead of torquing to 54 lbs with a piston dead stop or repeataly started with a remote starter on the crank nut. 1/2" air guns can go up to 90+ Foot lbs....
That will push the the flywheel onto the crank taper harder than needed and start a stress riser from the machine key way groove.
Personally, I now have both alum flywheel and rods in my 2x engines and more....
I did think of using a bunch of Kevlar bullet proof vest material here to wrap my flywheel housing like a scatter shield but....