just keeps pullin'

#1
I'm into old stuff, esp vehicles, and in February I wrote you guys about my proud purchase of a 750 Tote Gote. It's running great now, I live in the mountains with challenging trails, and I let it take me wherever it wants to go. I'll be 69 next month, and I'm talking some steep, twisty, narrow, rocky, dusty passages (feet off the pegs), and it's been a long time since I've been on a scooter, so it ain't long before I trade in rubbernecking for extreme concentration. The gote is ALWAYS in its element, showing off, and I just hold on in amazement. BEST entertainment dollars I EVER spent!!!! Rear brake only, works good, but complete stops are a problem and kill the engine (an 8 horse Tecumseh). The clutch sticks when it's supposed to release. I took it off, squirted some carb cleaner inside and blasted with air, it worked great for awhile, now it sticks again. Whoa, WHOA baby!!!! Plus, when I kill the engine, then pull start it off the stand, I've gotten tired of chasing the bike through the trees before it lays down and grudgingly waits for me to catch up. I would take the clutch apart and attempt servicing, but can't figger how it separates to get inside. It's a Comet clutch with a 1" shaft, 5 1/2" outside bell with 5 1/4" inside spool. Does anybody know where I can buy a new one or how to fix the one I have? I'll try to attach some pix, and thanks for your help. Later, Rick p.s. fergit the photos, I'm having as much trouble trying to attach them as I am getting my gote to quit churning!!
 
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Tink

New Member
#2
From looking about online I'm not claiming accuracy...around three different clutches over the years used..Duster on early ones, then Salisbury, then a climb away on some.( Climb away claimed a duster by some...).

Knowing what clutch will help figure how to break it down.
Most clutches need a dry graphite if any lube...wet lubes hold dirt and bind movement.

Learn and talk about Tote Gote, American motorcycles, Motorcycles by brand, Motorcycles introduced in 1958, Off-road motorcycles


Here is a climb away.
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/mini-bike-parts/115711-climb-clutch.html
 
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#3
Thanks for your advice about lubricating with dry graphite. When the clutch finally releases, it makes a loud clunk like it was sticking. Maybe the graphite will free something up? Also will try to follow directions and attach pix of the clutch and the tote gote. Thanks again for your help.
 
#5
rustjunkie,
That is a very nice Gote you have there and is the exact model/style my son and I are looking for. Should you decide to sell it or know anyone else with one to sell, please PM me.
Michael
 

Tink

New Member
#6
Great pictures. I like your Gote.
Looks like a series 40 . Yours looks better than mine!:laugh:

A 40 Comet clutch should open like a pickle jar when welded nut is facing the sky..loosen counter clockwise. (Righty tighty /lefty looosey.)
Note how clutch is secured in vice in the following video to not damage it.

Most smaller than forty should just come apart once removed from shaft. Others with unwelded nut that look similar to your welded one ,the nut comes off to disassemble.

Be careful and don't fight it in case I'm wrong on your clutch.
Here is a video to watch first...it shows a vice and pipewrench to disassemble.
He made a tool also should wrenching become a habit.

Should you get into the secondary clutch ,or encounter a spring somewhere that is seated by one end or both in a hole....take special note and mark on it.. what hole(s) . Where options exist in hole selection ,it affects when and how the clutch operates ...
Expect on some clutches, and on your driven one, a pre-load (by adding a certain amount of tension by partially winding) is required to reassemble.

Your 40 drive clutch ,if that's what it is, looks pretty straight forward though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3FCcLlR-sg
 
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