Kill switch issues.

Mini Bike & Go-Kart Parts

#1
So I own a preadator 212 swapped mini bike, bike starts up great runs no problems, bit when i hit the kill switch, nothing, bike continues to run. To turn it off i have resorted to cutting the fuel off and that takes too long, I will include pictures of the kill switch. Anyone who could help me fix this please help haha, it’s really the only downside to my build at the moment and i am surely no electrical guru.
 

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#2
I don’t mess with clones, but kill switch circuit is usually pretty simple.
There should be a wire coming from the coil, that goes to one side of the kill switch. Other side of the kill switch should be attached to engine ground, I like to use one of the engine mounting bolts.
The switch basically takes the coil signal and sends it to ground instead of the spark plug.

On a flathead there is a wire lug on the ignition coil where the kill switch wire should be attached. I should think that yours would be similar?
 
#5
I don’t mess with clones, but kill switch circuit is usually pretty simple.
There should be a wire coming from the coil, that goes to one side of the kill switch. Other side of the kill switch should be attached to engine ground, I like to use one of the engine mounting bolts.
The switch basically takes the coil signal and sends it to ground instead of the spark plug.

On a flathead there is a wire lug on the ignition coil where the kill switch wire should be attached. I should think that yours would be similar?
Yes there is a lug there, that’s where the ground sits, however i’m not sure where the ignition wires are. That’s my issue i’m not a electrical guru so i don’t really know what’s what.
 
#7
I would try this-
Run a wire from that lug. Strip the other end of the wire to remove the insulation.
Start the engine and then touch the exposed end of the wire to engine ground.
The engine should die.
This is basically how it works.

So the wire leaves the coil and then goes to a switch. The other side of the switch should go to engine ground.
With the switch open, the coil and ground are separated, but with the switch closed it completes the circuit to ground and kills the engine.

I would inspect the wires and the switch and check for a broken or frayed or corroded wire, anything at any point in this circuit would cause the bike to keep running. Also make sure your ground is getting a good connection with bare metal and not bolted to a painted part of the engine.

Just wanted to try and explain the circuit, it’s not as hard to understand as it seems like at first.
 
#10
I would try this-
Run a wire from that lug. Strip the other end of the wire to remove the insulation.
Start the engine and then touch the exposed end of the wire to engine ground.
The engine should die.
This is basically how it works.

So the wire leaves the coil and then goes to a switch. The other side of the switch should go to engine ground.
With the switch open, the coil and ground are separated, but with the switch closed it completes the circuit to ground and kills the engine.

I would inspect the wires and the switch and check for a broken or frayed or corroded wire, anything at any point in this circuit would cause the bike to keep running. Also make sure your ground is getting a good connection with bare metal and not bolted to a painted part of the engine.

Just wanted to try and explain the circuit, it’s not as hard to understand as it seems like at first.
Okay, but that lug i was talking about was holding the ground wire, wouldn’t i just be running a ground wire to a ground in that case?
 
#12
The recommendation to run a wire was just for testing purposes.
If the lug I am thinking of on the coil were actually connected to ground, the bike would not start and run.
So I think I might be talking about something else, sorry for the confusion.
 
#13
The recommendation to run a wire was just for testing purposes.
If the lug I am thinking of on the coil were actually connected to ground, the bike would not start and run.
So I think I might be talking about something else, sorry for the confusion.
No worries, but you do seem to understand OND, i somewhat get it but do i reconnect those opposite ends together, like the two arrows together, and the leftover ends together, or just same wire connections but unplug and plug back in, i’m assuming it’s swap but i just want to clarify, sorry for being so confused just the wording threw me off.
 
#15
I’m still somewhat confused on what he’s saying, are the wires in the pic mixed up, if so if i plug those two ends in do i just plug the two remaining ones together?
I hear you, you might have to use his advice and try it both ways?
After looking at the pic some more, it looks like the yellow wire is the kill circuit. For some reason I was thinking about a handlebar-mounted kill switch.
 
#16
I hear you, you might have to use his advice and try it both ways?
After looking at the pic some more, it looks like the yellow wire is the kill circuit. For some reason I was thinking about a handlebar-mounted kill switch.
I do have a handlebar mounted kill switch, however my issue was neither kill switches worked, not even the one on the engine
 
#19
This is the main wire going to the coil ! If you ground this wire to the engine or a ground wire the engine will shut down. If you have a kill switch on your handle bars hook it to this wire .
 
#20
The black wire in the sheth coming down from the handlebars should be plugged into the dual wire connector. It will replace the wire that has the green insulator, that the lower arrow in post 3 points too.
 

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