Lighted RUPP Tecumseh HS50...Is it worth saving???
Rupp made a bike called an SS-5 that used an HS50. But I will agree that that block at least is not from a rupp becuase its white and the SS engine was black in color.
with that said though it was a 20 degree slant application engine, I dont know what the correct numbers are for the SS so to the original poster does the shroud match the block in color, or is it black? I am curious on that because I would like to know what crankshaft they used on the SS. That number you have shows the standard length 33676.
I will have HS50 parts available soon, should have extra blocks if all your other parts are good, just dont have time to mess with them right now. Next in line is an HS50 I am rebuilding for someone though so i will be pulling all that stuff out in about 1 month.
with that said though it was a 20 degree slant application engine, I dont know what the correct numbers are for the SS so to the original poster does the shroud match the block in color, or is it black? I am curious on that because I would like to know what crankshaft they used on the SS. That number you have shows the standard length 33676.
I will have HS50 parts available soon, should have extra blocks if all your other parts are good, just dont have time to mess with them right now. Next in line is an HS50 I am rebuilding for someone though so i will be pulling all that stuff out in about 1 month.
Even if the cylinder CAN be bored and an OS piston/ring set installed (questionable) ($$$) that engine could have other serious "deal breakers" ($$$):
1.Rod to crankshaft journal excessively worn or scored ($$)
2. Flywheel side block bushing (hole) excessively worn or scored ($$$)
3. Valve guides excessively worn ($$)
Unless you are a machinist with the knowledge and tools to repair/replace these are all expensive repairs. My son went through this earlier this year on an OEM numbers-matching 1970 Rupp-specific HS40 on his restoration. There was just too much worn out on the engine (all of the above!). It took awhile, but he found another Rupp_specific HS40 short block in MUCH better condition.
Michael
1.Rod to crankshaft journal excessively worn or scored ($$)
2. Flywheel side block bushing (hole) excessively worn or scored ($$$)
3. Valve guides excessively worn ($$)
Unless you are a machinist with the knowledge and tools to repair/replace these are all expensive repairs. My son went through this earlier this year on an OEM numbers-matching 1970 Rupp-specific HS40 on his restoration. There was just too much worn out on the engine (all of the above!). It took awhile, but he found another Rupp_specific HS40 short block in MUCH better condition.
Michael
Michael I agree 100%. Was just saying you can't tell from the picture how bad it is and if he does not know how to check for the other issues you mentioned then yes he should look for another. I am certainly not a machinist but do have basically a machine shop in my garage from my old motorcycle restoration business. All the Tecumseh engines I have restored have had replaceable valve guides and I use the briggs tool to remove them. The flywheel side I have never had to deal with so I have no useful tips for that, Rod I always replace with the ARC rod.
so your saying that Rupp used the HS50 now.....are you running for office :laugh:
I did find the numbers for what should be an SS5 engine today so here's some useless trivia for you guys and gals: Tecumseh only made 2 HS50's with an extended BB crank (part number 33837) 1972-1979 a 67050 and a 67051, the 51 being for 20 degree slant with a lighted magneto so that would be the one.
I did find the numbers for what should be an SS5 engine today so here's some useless trivia for you guys and gals: Tecumseh only made 2 HS50's with an extended BB crank (part number 33837) 1972-1979 a 67050 and a 67051, the 51 being for 20 degree slant with a lighted magneto so that would be the one.
Yes, you will loose the threads on the exhaust port so you will have to use a flange type/bolt on muffler or get the thread saver/adapter flange (they are really expensive!). If its a new block or from a very late model it is a possibility it will not be drilled and tapped for the magneto so you may have to do that.