Modded the MM-80 some more, & Just couldn't part with the LIfan 152f-3 80 cc engine yet.

I74

Well-Known Member
#1
After all the mods I did to the wife's MM-80, ''which is now mine'',, because of setting her up with a highly modded electric Lithium Ion MM E- 1000, I ended up getting a jack shaft setup from BMI, which only cost me 90 bucks for everything, including shipping,
The governor gear assy. is completely removed, & the throttle is set with the governor arm & 4 misc. springs...
Intake is custom made by Brad from HRM, & the ''rare'' pipe, is off a MBX-11 , which I also got from HRM.
The gearing is 11t on the clutch, 17 on the primary driven. 13 on the out board driven & 65 on the wheel.
That gives me a gear ratio of 7.727 - 1, from the stock 6.8 - 1.
When I pulled the cover, to remove the governor gear assy, I was surprisingly impressed with the quality of the cam, crank & bearings ect.
Cam is not plastic on this version , & is a pretty decent steel one.
This Lifan 152f-3 engine inside the crank case looks ''a lot'' better than the last 79cc Predator I took apart.
I figure with the mods that have been done ''so far'', the engine is putting out around 3.5hp now.

Am having to spend ''a lot'' of time'' modding the jack shat plate to my liking though. Mostly in long gating the plate mounting holes to accommodate the 11-17t primary sprockets, & to clear the fender ect.
I know that most of you probably think I' am nuts for doing this, rather than converting to a 212,,but I like a challenge that others wouldn't.
Think it will run about 27mph @4,500, after the latest mods,, & pull my 205lb @$$ ''no problem''.
If wanting to go faster, I will just jump on the Harley.

I will post pics tomorrow .
Ian
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#2
Here are some pics, including one of the 4 added throttle linkage spring config. attached to the governor arm ect.
Throttle works really well now with the spring set up I came up with.
Bought a box of 200 assorted springs from Harbor Freight, They are pretty decent, & only cost 4 bucks.:p

There is multiple advantages of putting on this jack shaft set up, other than just gearing.
First is, that the clutch is reversed, & teeth are inboard now, which puts ''a lot'' less stress on the crank.
It basically moves the output load closer to the center line of the engine.
I' am using a modded 6 shoe clutch, with a Max torque ''black spring'', & really like it.
That setup is perfect, with helping the engine get some revs before engagement, & also let's me set the idle up more, because of the higher stall.
Going with the 65t rear sprocket is also an advantage.
It not only allows a shorter chain, but also puts less stress on the tensioner, because of giving the chain a straighter shot to the rear sprocket.
Also helps with cutting down resistance, & runs truer.
I also notched out the jackshaft plate on top, where the bolt for the clutch guard goes.
Will also be able to still use both guards.;)
The shims that I' am using for the sprockets, are a combination of 5/8 ID oil drain plug washers, & bronze thrust bushings.

I'll post more pics when it's ready to rip.
Have to long gate the plate bolt mounting holes a smidge more ''plate more forward'', to get the primary chain set.
100_5492.JPG 100_5494.JPG 100_5496.JPG
 
#3
I like where you are going with this.what forks did you use?i have four of these all with the stock engines and love the way they run.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#4
I like where you are going with this.what forks did you use?i have four of these all with the stock engines and love the way they run.
Hi Mr. ez.:)
Glad you like it !
Got it pretty much buttoned up, & have taken it for 5 rides so far, it is ''a lot better''. !
Still fine tuning the plate notches a bit get the primary tension where I like it.
Basically grinding the rears of the notches just enough to get the bolts in for where I want the chain tension set.
It's been a lot of work , but worth it.
Also got the covers set really well, & they clear just fine.
The clutch cover upper & lower ''rear bolts, I incorporated flange bolts,, & they also help in securing the rear of the plate.
Being the plate is 3/8 aluminum, it can flex a bit past the mountings. The rear cover bolts definitely help in making it more solid.
It basically now has 6 bolts to fasten it.;)

The forks are Monster Moto.
I & a bunch of others ''here'', got them when they were 80 bucks this last winter.
They have been sold out for a while though.
The lower leg fork brace I made out of 1/8 inch aluminum bar stock.
It helps a bunch in keeping the front end pinned together, as the triple tree tube clamping doesn't 100% keep the forks from twisting, if going over ruts ect.
Am going to have to get a better clutch soon though, ''Maxtorque SS''.
The clutch on it is a reworked Lifan one, & the integrated ''junk'' key in the hub is not very good, & is wearing fast, because of it originally being mounted the opposite direction.
I will just put my black spring in the new clutch.
Best clutch lube that I stumbled on recently, is,, Amzoil 20- 50 synthetic severe racing oil.
This stuff is the bomb !, for clutch bushings ect.
Great cable lube also.
I'll get some more pics up in a day or two.
Lastly,,
I run ''Tru fuel'' - 4 stroke 92 octane in this engine, & always have from day 1.
It is awesome stuff, & burns really clean.
Shelf life is over 3 years also.

Ian
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#5
Thanks for the likes, massacre. :)

For someone that hasn't worked much with metal ect., I would recommend going with HRM'S complete jackshaft kit, instead of piecing together & reworking what I went through....
Their kit has everything you need, & comes with 18 & 13t sprockets, & both precut chains.
If using the stock 11t clutch & 75t rear sprocket, that gives a ratio of 9.44 - 1, which I personally think is to low.
The 65t sprocket I got from Mega Moto, that is for their Go Kart,, for 12 bucks, & is really good quality.
The center hole needs opened up a smidge though on it to fit the hub, you can just wrap 60 grit sand paper around a broom handle ect.
& spin it over that until the hole is satisfactory, takes awhile though ….
That will give a gearing of 8.812 - 1, which is much better than the 9.44 - 1.
 
#6
Thanks for the likes, massacre. :)

For someone that hasn't worked much with metal ect., I would recommend going with HRM'S complete jackshaft kit, instead of piecing together & reworking what I went through....
Their kit has everything you need, & comes with 18 & 13t sprockets, & both precut chains.
If using the stock 11t clutch & 75t rear sprocket, that gives a ratio of 9.44 - 1, which I personally think is to low.
The 65t sprocket I got from Mega Moto, that is for their Go Kart,, for 12 bucks, & is really good quality.
The center hole needs opened up a smidge though on it to fit the hub, you can just wrap 60 grit sand paper around a broom handle ect.
& spin it over that until the hole is satisfactory, takes awhile though ….
That will give a gearing of 8.812 - 1, which is much better than the 9.44 - 1.
Sweet, I74!!!!
I love it, and great job for taking on the challenge of keeping the lifan!!!
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#11
Well, I' am happy to say that I finally found the sweet spot for the primary chain adjustment.
Spinning the back wheel with both chains on now, everything is super smooth & hardly any resistance. :p

Used one of my tricks for shimming up the slop between the crank & clutch hub.
I took aluminum heater duct tape & made a tight smooth wrap around the crank, with over lapping the tape in the crank slot.
That definitely did the trick, & there is no play now, & checked it after a 20 min. ride this eve. :)

I also made an 8 inch by 7/8 removable baffle out of a stainless broom handle.
Drilled a bazillion holes in it, & the end sticks out the exhaust tip about 1/2 inch & can be removed with pliers, as the front of it is a friction fit in the forward 1 inch pipe that goes into the resonator.
It made a difference in improving lower end torque, & the exhaust has a really nice higher pitch now, also about 25 DB quieter, as to not to piss off the neighbors. ;)
It didn't loose any top end power either, & runs & rides great !

I
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#15
Have been experimenting with a new ''wiz bang'' chain lube .... '' For me anyway''. :)
Awhile back , I read an article that ''Mr. Max torque'' put out years ago about the best chain/ sprocket lube.
He puts 1/2 bar of Paraffin canning wax in a coffee can, & adds a bit of 30-W oil to it.
Then puts the can in a cooking pan, with the pan having water in it, & heats the wax/oil up like a double boiler.
You just want the wax hot enough to melt, & then put the chain in it ect. & let it cook for a few....
In doing this, it also releases the crap on & in the chain, & the debris fall to the bottom of the can.
After a few minutes or so, then pick up the chain end out of the can & hold it up & let it drip into it for a bit. I let it drip until the wax starts setting up..
I then lay the chain ect. on newspaper, & let the wax completely set up.
On a new chain with this done, the chain will pretty much start looking normal dirty after use, but in handling it,, the wax doesn't really get your hands dirty.
One of the main reasons for using wax, is that once it sets up, it pretty much seals up the oil inside the chain rollers & pins ect. ''pretty slick idea''.;)

I started experimenting with using Wally world's ''Super tech'' - heavy duty - 30-W - bar & chain oil ,, instead of straight 30- W.
It has a special tackiness additive, & works awesome !
The Gulf canning wax is around 3 bucks for 4 bars, & the Super tech is around 4 bucks for a qt..
Both of those should last for years …...
Ian
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#18
Just ordered a Max torque 11t - SS clutch & 18t B sprocket from BMI.
Think I will try the stock spring first, & go from there,, as I have spare Max torque - silver, green ,& black springs.
That will give me a gearing of 8.182 - 1, from 7.727 - 1
The new clutch & gear, should noticeably help more on hills & take off, plus even less stress on the engine !! :)
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#19
Am not totally impressed with the Max torque SS clutch I got.
Had a lot of end play on it, & I put a .008 steel shim off my Chinese clutch, between the outer bushing & snap ring.
Whole bunches better on end play.;)
With only having a snap ring, the bushing will wear out pretty quick, as end play causes end to end wear, basically making the bushing rock.
I
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#20
Added,,
The drum will basically oscillate badly, when having end play, as the chain makes it move latterly any way, especially if you don't have your chain alignment ''tits'' 100%, and your sprockets aren't true.
That in turn will wear out the bushing end I.D.'s real quick.
 

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