Mods going to work in my clone?

[K42karting]

Ok I've gone a different direction in my mods. This is what I have so far, I have a rlv open header k&n air filter governor removed and low oil sensor unplugged. I'm going to take my extra head and port it maybe mill it if I can find someone in town and tillotson 388a with 1" long manifold and 1.000 throat hole and 275 lift 230 duration cam will all this stuff work together well?

 

[K42karting]

Will I be able to use my tav 30 on my go kart or isn't to much power

 

[Newoldstock]

Depends on how you drive it.

I am not familiar with that carb but if its made for the Yahmaha its likely a much closer fit to a clone than a carb from some other aplication that may not flow fuel in a way that makes a clone easy to tune and run.

The cam might be more reilaible with some valve train upgrades.
But these are also dependent on how hard you push the engine, the important thing is to use the recomended springs and lash caps on both valves. If you have access to Honda parts these will be stronger and last longer than clone.

The TAV will allow you to drive it around and keep the rpm down.
This may or may not work well for you depending on what you expect.
As a torque sencing system it will try and drive your engine RPM down in respons to light loading.

This is good in many respects but it can make the top end a little lay.

I don't know if this is just my bad luck but I bought some PIX belts because I was told they were the same as OEM comet belts.
Well the PIX belts don't seem to be made from as hard a compound as a belt marked comet.
I seem to be the only person experiencing this problem so it might be an isolated case.
Just to be safe though don't cheap out, get at least 1 comet belt and a spare because an engine that makes more power can eat up a belt. But a belt can last a very long time if you are careful.

 

[K42karting]

thanks i dont push the engine really hard as in racing. what do lash caps do i "need" them?

 

[rmm727]

Lash caps are "hard" and hold the retainer in place on the exhaust valve. They keep the end of the valve from mushrooming. You can put an exhaust retainer and lash cap on the intake valve. Its a good cheap investment is some durability.

 

[JamnJM]

Is there only 1x lash cap and on the exhaust side valve on a gx160?

I found just 1x in my solvent tank after cleaning my torn down engine in there....I was thinking of going magnet fishing in the tank for the other, but I just ordered a new set with my Black Marima cam....

 

[rmm727]

Should only be one. The retainers are shaped differently to accept the lash cap.

 

[JamnJM]

Thanks. I'll have to look at the retainers better.....:thumbsup:

 

[K42karting]

thanks guys

 

[K42karting]

Im going to get a gx160 flywheel good idea or bad and i have an extra connecting rod can i just weld on it to make it stronger?

 

[r_chez_08]

What RPM are you looking for? You need some valve springs too.
If over 6k a billet rod is definently recommended, and a stronger flywheel than the clone one is reccomended too.

 

[K42karting]

Im going to put it in a mini bike or lawn mower and try to twist 5 to 6000 im getting a billet rod and gx160 flywheel

 

[r_chez_08]

Make sure that flywheel is torqued down correctly with a torque wrench along with the coil bolts.

 

[K42karting]

I will thanks im also lapping my flywheel

 

[Dunecat48]

I use a gx160 flywheel on my 6.5 honda clone works great! I recomend advancing your timing with a new key. 8*works for me.:thumbsup:

 

[r_chez_08]

12* advance sounds a lot to me on gas with those mods, but whatever works for you.
The gx160 flywheel has 4* advance over a standard gx200 wheel.

 

[Newoldstock]

Get a timing light on it and figuer out how much you have right now.

Timing retards a little with increasing RPM so if I am not mistaken its something like 1 deg for every 1000 rpm over 3600.

S0 if your goal is to run around 6000 rpm and no more I realy think the 4 deg built into the GX160 flwheel has you covered if all you want to do is stay ahead of the propagation delay in the ignition. That still gives you a hair of extra advance to deal with the higher rpm opperation.

It's has been my experience with these engines that if you increase the compression ratio a you need less over all timing advance on gasoline to run at 5000 - 6000 rpm than you would with stock compression.
Without a dyno I can't prove that, but look at the plugs and seeing how the engines run has lead me to thinking less is often more.
One more thing I will add is it also apears to me that excessively advnaced timing in these engines just kills the bottom and makes them slower when your trying to get out of a hole.

 

[K42karting]

Thanks so stay with the 4 advanced with the gx160 is good:thumbsup: should i get my head milled?

 

[Newoldstock]

I would not mill it.

See how it runs first

Big carb and cam with the potential to take advantage of it..
Good free flowing header...

Sometimes you need to push back from the table and try it before you spend more money.
You make too many changes at once and things can get hard to sort out.

I don't see anywhere in your parts list better valves retainers ect...
I don't read anything about the rod.

These are things you should think about before you start trying t5o bump up the power or spin the engine too hard.
Another thing to think about is the TAV and how its going to react.
Its going to try and push the RPM of the engine down.

It may turn out you have a hard time getting the engine to pull you froma dead stop.
So some spring upgrades might be a consideration for the clutch kit.

Just throwing out some thoughts......

 

[K42karting]

Thanks i have the 3600 springs bit this motor won't be on that go kart it will be on a mini :thumbsup: