my 1975 Rupp Roadster 2

[myjunk]

Its been a while since I have been on the forum, so I may have lost my touch for loading pictures, but I hope the shot of my new ride makes it. I think it is a 1975 Rupp Roadster 2. It runs and drives great, however maybe someone can tell me if this has the correct engine in it or if someone has simply replaced the blower housing. Also is there a place where you can find out what the production numbers were? My number on the seat frame reads 50(maybe6)02858. Thanks

 

[banjo]

nice bike . snowblower housing for sure . it should be a hs-40. with lighting coil. original housing is more rounded at the top.

 

[sludgeboy]

Definitely take a look at the color of the shroud and engine. I bought a Speedway that had a hs50 gray shroud on it but after taking it apart, it was the original black engine. So compare to see if the engine is gray or black. Take off the intake to see if it is a hs40 or hs50. It looks like the original carburetor also. Can you post up more pictures?

 

[myjunk]

Here are a few more photos of the bike. The shroud does say HS50, however it is a smokey grey color and the engine does apear to be black. Do I need to remove the intake to see the stamping? Also where could I locate the correct shroud for this bike? Thanks for all the help

 

[The Restore Kid]

To put the correct shroud on the engine, you ALSO NEED the correct flywheel... That is an iron flywheel motor... Some of those have the wrong size taper on the front of the crankshaft and won't accept the HS50 HS40 aluminum wheel...

It doesn't matter... yank the primer bulb off the front and call it good.. :laugh:

Or...

http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/project-logs/61380-trks-lighted-hs50-cinderella-stroy-how.html


OPE NOPE I MIGHT HAVE lied to ya... You MIGHT actually have the correct HS40 With an iron HS50 cover on it... That COULD work out.. the recoil would barely make contact with the cup, but it's possible.. :shrug:

Pull the blower housing off to see what flywheel ya have.. IF you take the intake off from the engine, the shape of the intake port will tell you if it's HS40 or HS50.. But it really don't matter..

 

[sludgeboy]

By the engine picture, you have a hs40 . Do what TRK said and pull off the shroud to see if you have an aluminum or cast iron flywheel. Post more pics, that always helps.

 

[myjunk]

Here are the pictures of the flywheel, looks to be cast iron. The fins could be aluminum .I take it that would mean the wrong engine? Another question on the light switch ,what does the center button do? should I have a horn on this bike as there is a horn button. Thanks aga

in for the help.

 

[sludgeboy]

I thing the horn was an option and it would hook up to that button. I see someone put a kill switch on it. The metal button should be the. Kill switch. That is how it is on both of mine. It would be interesting to see under that flywheel. It has wires coming from it. Does your lights work or is it a dumby wire? I wonder if the cast iron. Flywheel was placed over the lightning coil. The flywheel outer part is probably plastic. I see a few fins broken off. Don't give up hope it is original engine, further :detective: will have to be done.

 

[myjunk]

That makes sense, someone added the red kill switch. The light actually works great, as a matter of fact I am surprised by how bright it is. I hear the term lightning coil, what exactly is one? Thanks

 

[sludgeboy]

Lightning coil is a term used to identify the stator plate assembly (part #610821A). It might even have a newer style of charging system like this RUPP TECUMSEH BONANZA MINI BIKE LIGHTING KIT FOR ELECTRONIC IGNITION ENGINE | eBay. If you click on TRK's link on an earlier post, it explains how you can do it yourself. Someone probably put the magnets on the inside of the cast iron flywheel to make it work. They had to use the cast iron flywheel in order for the shroud to work like TRK said earlier also. Any luck on getting the flywheel off to see what is underneath it?

 

[The Restore Kid]

hats an iron flywheel. If te light works off the motor, it mus already have a lighting coil, which is easily believeable, as a lot of the iron ones are lighted.

The satndard HS40 minibike blower housing most likely won't fit for depth on that motor. But isn't that important. Just for looks sake..

 

[markus]

Hey Myjunk, That engine is correct as Tecumseh did away with the last of the old style motors around 1974 the shroud has been replaced but since the pull start sits in the right position, if you paint/ dump the primer decal it it will look like it should from the Rupp factory. The stamped numbers on the shroud probably wont match but not too much you can do about that short of stamping your own in.

The air cleaner is rong as well and in the wrong position, but again another easy fix:thumbsup:

I'm curious about your tires on it. Mine are not "rupp trials" made by IRC Japan as usually seen. they are just stamped Trials and actually 3.00 x12" rather than the usual 3.50 x12" They are also an american made tire, but no manufacturer stanp that I see. They look very much original though to the bike. I'm also trying to figure out about the handle grips and what correct footpegs should be. Mine has waffle grips, looking around it looks like other do too. No pegs on mine, and looks like alot of them are missing on others as well so I wonder if they went to something else there not as stout as what they used in previous years.


The last year bikes I would imagine were now having to share with the New line up MX bikes Rupp was focusing on.

Mines rusty/crusty. I have it on the bench right now just got it sparking again, carb is soaking and I'm getting ready to fire it up and blow some rust out the muff!

 

[jmbmini]

Markus you are correct about the shroud style change on the last couple years of the Rupp Roadster2. The shroud I have is just like the one on your bike. Also the flywheel cool fins are plastic. My Shroud numbers and letters read as HS40-55393E