need to rebuild my carb, and need some help with parts

F

flyweed

New Member
#1
#1
Hey guys, well my first MTD project I started almost a year ago is finished, but that damn engine is going to KILL me. I can put it on full choke and get the stinkin thing to start after about 100 pulls, but as soon as I move to to half choke or off, it dies. I also have gas leaking like a sieve somewhere outta the carb too.

My engine info: Model: 143-581002 Serial: 858 12567
On my carb (I think it says): 198-8B19 (or 8319..I can't tell if it's a B or 3)

Can anyone help me out with info on both the engine and carb..and where I can get parts to rebuild the carb??

Thanks
Dan
 
buckeye

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
Sounds like you need to clean the carb at the least. Rebuild kit from your local small engine shop. Or of course the best place for a tec carb rebuild kit none other than OldMiniBikes warehouse.
 
TomH

TomH

New Member
#3
#3
If you haven't dropped the bowl and looked around, that would be a good place to start. My Carb was so corroded it was a total loss.Bought a new one with adjustable jets for 38$ delivered. disclaimer inside..not responsible for damage caused by ethanol fuels, use a fuel stabilizer. I use seafoam. there are others Sta Bil etc. This new fuel will cause damage pretty quickly
 
F

flyweed

New Member
#4
#4
tom I ONLY use 93 octane, rec fuel in this engine.....it contains NO ethanol at all. I don't use ethanol blends in ANY of my small engine or Harley Davidson. Just the cars.
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#5
#5
first thing to do is, if you have a lawnmower shop nearby, go in and tell them you need carb kit #31840 it'll have all this #31840 TECUMSEH CARB REBUILD KIT . next see if they sell starter fluid. after you rebuild ther carb and get the leak taken care of(hopefully), pull the air filter and move the choke. spray a couple times up into the carb. put the choke back on and give it a pull. it should fire right up. it may take a few sprays but it'll work!
if you need help with the carb rebuild, let us know! the needle and seat can be a bitch the first couple of times! I have pics of the inside of the carb if you need em'....
 
TomH

TomH

New Member
#7
#7
yep, when you get the new needle and seat installed, you need to adjust the float. Turn the carb upside down and you want the float to set parallel to the carb. those little o rings are important also. I put a little oil on them before I install them. Makes it easier, and less chance for damage.
 
F

flyweed

New Member
#9
#9
Hey JRZMac..thanks for the info and the PDF. I double checked my tecumseh engine, and the plate that has the numbers stamped into it on the front of the engine does indeed say: Model: 143-581002 Serial: 858-12567

I did find a few more numbers looking around the entire engine with a magnifying glass. on the intake manifold..it has the numbers 57-070 stamped into it. The carbuerator, is a bowl style..and I am STILL at a loss on it..the ONLY numbers I find on it..are on the top where is says: 198-891 I THINK..again it's a bit hard to read..then on the left side, in a little circle there appears to be a "32"..and then underneath on the float bowl it says "patent pending, Lauson Power Products, Grafton, WI...Made in the USA"

and that's it.

I'd really like to get a carb rebuild kit for this engine, but just dont know what I need to order.

Thanks again guys for anymore help you can give me
 
oldfatguy

oldfatguy

Active Member
#10
#10
You should first do a check to see if the carb is still good. With the bowl and float removed shake the carb body and listen for a rattle. There is a check ball inside if it's rusted and doesn't move the carb will never work right. All Tecumseh adjustable carbs use the same kit.Another thing to check is your float, while it's off the carb give it a shake to see if there is gas inside of it. If it has a pin hole in it the float will fill up with gas and not close the needle valve causing the overflow problem that you have. The other cause is dirt in the valve seat, use a Q-tip to get in there to clean it. Also make sure to clean out both small holes in the side of the main jet. Most of the time you can get by with out a carb kit the only part that mostly goes bad is the rubber bowl gasket.
This should give you a start in solving your carb problem.
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#13
#13
probly the #1 thing to make the carb leak is something wrong with the needle and seat


the smallest thing can get in there and clog it all up, you gotta replace it. thats where the gas comes into the carb thru the inlet. the bowl fills up with gas then as the float rises, the needle thats hanging off of it, plugs up the hole in the seat. if something is messed up in there, leak city!!! they also come in the kit I posted. I would start there. to stop the leak. the other stuff you can do after. also, the welch plugs that are in there, i wouldn't even worry about. dont bother. it's a lot of work and most of the time uneeded.
 
M

metal man

New Member
#14
#14
oldfatguy said:
You should first do a check to see if the carb is still good. With the bowl and float removed shake the carb body and listen for a rattle. There is a check ball inside if it's rusted and doesn't move the carb will never work right. All Tecumseh adjustable carbs use the same kit.Another thing to check is your float, while it's off the carb give it a shake to see if there is gas inside of it. If it has a pin hole in it the float will fill up with gas and not close the needle valve causing the overflow problem that you have. The other cause is dirt in the valve seat, use a Q-tip to get in there to clean it. Also make sure to clean out both small holes in the side of the main jet. Most of the time you can get by with out a carb kit the only part that mostly goes bad is the rubber bowl gasket.
This should give you a start in solving your carb problem.
Click to expand...
i have to call you on the rattle , maybe maybe not . some of the tec carbs dont rattle and never did from the day there were new , the rattle is a rod in the idle circuit some dont have the rod . if you look above the idle screw on the carb body . the ones that rattle have a very small brass plug , like 1/8 inch . some dont have that plug and they dont have the rod soooo no rattle .
the reason i know this is i had some old shot to shit tec carbs . some had the plug and some didnt . so i cut them apart the ones with the plug had a small rod like 1/16 inch dia in them . the ones with out the plug no rod .

also on the welch plugs you want to pull at least the front one . its near the front of the carb by the intake(about 3/8 dia . if you look you should see on the inside there is a small hole near the butterfly . the welch plug on the outside is part of the feed to the hole if its pluged up it will never run wright .
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#15
#15
metal man said:
also on the welch plugs you want to pull at least the front one . its near the front of the carb by the intake(about 3/8 dia . if you look you should see on the inside there is a small hole near the butterfly . the welch plug on the outside is part of the feed to the hole if its pluged up it will never run wright .
Click to expand...
metal man, you can get those holes unplugged from where the low idle screw was. if you angle the tip a little bit I guess. you just need a big can of carb cleaner. watch this dude right in the very beginning....
Tecumseh carb rebuild medium-large engines part 2 - YouTube
 
F

flyweed

New Member
#16
#16
well, got the carb taken apart...found out some pretty interesting stuff...First the gasket for the bowl was rotten....it fell off in pieces. 2nd, there was some kind of "jelly" like substance built up in the bowl..not quite sure what that was. Next I can't even FIND the needle and seat spring to close the gas intake...the float is fine, but no needle????:shrug::shrug: I took the entire thing apart over a white towel at the kitchen table, so nothing dropped out. WEIRD!

So looks like this carb is due for a serious cleaning and new carb kit anyway! I have all the parts, springs, needles, gaskets, screws, etc ALL soaking in a bowl of carb cleaner right now.

Photos to follow.......................
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#17
#17
flyweed said:
well, got the carb taken apart...found out some pretty interesting stuff...First the gasket for the bowl was rotten....it fell off in pieces. 2nd, there was some kind of "jelly" like substance built up in the bowl..not quite sure what that was. Next I can't even FIND the needle and seat spring to close the gas intake...the float is fine, but no needle????:shrug::shrug: I took the entire thing apart over a white towel at the kitchen table, so nothing dropped out. WEIRD!

So looks like this carb is due for a serious cleaning and new carb kit anyway! I have all the parts, springs, needles, gaskets, screws, etc ALL soaking in a bowl of carb cleaner right now.

Photos to follow.......................
Click to expand...
that jelly is old gas. pretty nasty huh?..thats why you should run it dry anytime your gonna store for any length of time! also, I dont think theres a spring anywhere near the needle and seat. some carbs have a spring over the float pin between the 2 little posts. I've never seen one though. and if theres no needle, theres no way to keep the gas from pouring out... did you order the kit I posted? If not, maybe you have a lawnmower repair place near you, you can just go in and give them the code number, and they wil usually have it in stock! #31840 you could also get a new bowl while your at it. Outdoor Distributors - Lawn Mower Parts . and a float if needed. Outdoor Distributors - Lawn Mower Parts good luck, and keep us posted! :thumbsup:
 
F

flyweed

New Member
#18
#18
thanks again..I just ordered a complete carb rebuild kit for $11.00 from MFG.Supply...as there are located right here in Wisconsin, and it should be here already Monday or Tuesday at the latest.

Here's the photo of the carb taken apart..and the circled in red is where the needled is SUPPOSE to be I take it.
 
jrzmac

jrzmac

Active Member
#20
#20
wow, you sure you didn't drop it? although it looks like the seat is gone as well... no wonder why it leaked. get some carb cleaner and clean EVERYTHING. if you have a wire brush or wheel, clean all of the screws. that nut that holds on the bowl is important. thats the main jet and must be CLEAN. theres also 2 holes on it that need to cleaned out good. one of them is on top near the threads and almost impossible to see when dirty.... heres how the stuff should look when all cleaned up!





 
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