Painting Help

#1
I am repainting a 1965 Craftsman Tractor and need some input. I completely disassembled the entire tractor over the summer and already began to completely strip the paint off of some parts with a Norton Rapid Strip Wheel, throughly clean and degrease every part using Denatured Alcohol and on some pieces Lacquer Thinner, then I painted using this process

1.) Prime using Rustoleum Grey Automotive Primer, sand lightly then apply another coat of primer.

2.) Color Coat using Rustoleum Black Night Metallic with Metal Flake, 1 lighter and then 1 wet coat.

3.) Clear Coat using Rustoleum Acrylic Lacquer, applied more coats of that on larger more used and more visible pieces.

The final results of the already painted pieces, I think are great but am afraid because of the fact that spray can paint is just temporary and if a crack or chip in the paint occurs will rust just eat away at the entire piece. I want this to look almost brand new but I also want to use it without it rusting up after a few months.

Thanks, any help or tips would be great
Nick S.
 
#4
You already have the paint...just spray some in a dixie cup and touch it up:shrug:

No offense meant, but if you're afraid, you shouldn't be asking a spray bomb to do an epoxy or powdercoat's job...
 

joekd

Active Member
#5
2.) Color Coat using Rustoleum Black Night Metallic with Metal Flake, 1 lighter and then 1 wet coat.
I used that exact same paint on my craftsmen lawn tractor with a stripe up the center done in bright red

Put on 3 coats of clear on everything and 2 years later it still looks great
 
#6
I understand what your saying quiklids thats why I am considering using a spray gun and compressor and some higher quality paint. I went this far with disassembling the entire thing I want to finish the job right and not have it rust away within a few months.

I am considering buying a decent spray gun and maybe borrowing a compressor because I am sure the gun will get good use with some other projects. But that takes a lot more research about good spray guns, having to thin/harden the paint, finding the right paint. The paint is basically in tact after 45 years after sitting outside for a couple years but the original paint was all baked on I was told.

Having the entire tractor powder coated would be way to expensive for me and would prevent me from doing the work myself which is really why I started this project.

Thanks for all the help!
Nick
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#8
Ya. I do same of my own powder coating because it's easy. I refuse to do some items, such as a fuel tank, because it is a problem repairing damage to powder coat.

If anyone wishes to save a lot of loot and turn-a-round time by doing their own powder coating I urge them to locate an old electric 'built-in' style oven. Lots of them are available for hauling away. I'm sure there are a lot of folks that want an oven that will do really big parts, like a full sized motorcycle frame, and it is possible to have such an oven if the element and automatic temperature control devices are removed from the unit and installed in a much larger insulated box. I resisted that urge based on laziness. I can do the A arms off a Camaro and other things not as large as a rear fender off a motorcycle. Gotta admit that an oven large enough to do, for instance, an average mini bike frame would be nice.

I just now went out to the back yard and took the attached pic of my powder coat oven. Yes it sits in the rain and snow but always works when I bring it back inside the shop.

I removed the 'broiler' element, which is near the top of the oven, so that there would be more vertical room inside by a couple of inches. It is rather hard to see in the poor photo, but there are a pair of 5/16 inch diameter rods that have been mounted to the back wall of the oven and quite close to the roof of the oven. Their ends are open and pointing at the door. The part to be coated are, of course, cleaned very well and using clean rubber gloves are hung on wires and 'dusted' with the powder coat gun. Then the parts are picked up by their wires and carefully hung from one or both of the 5/16 rods if the part is heavier. Never had a bit of problem. The controls on the oven are accurate enough so that attaining and holding the recommended temperatures has never been a problem.

Here are my tips.

-Carefully clean out the oven before use. You don't want dust and other light crap flying around and spotting up your parts.
-I find that more problems are encountered by not having enough powder on the part than too much. Too much, it seems to me, is a lot harder to do.
-Like any painting very good light is absolutely necessary when using the gun. Otherwise light spots can result.
-Wear a particle mask. They are cheap.
-Clear an area in the shop [not outdoors] and supply a metal [conductive] bar on which to hang the parts. Paper on the floor is helpful but the stuff sweeps up OK without it.
-There will be a lot of 'lost' powder under the parts being dusted if you are doing a bunch. Don't be tempted to try to reclaim it. I have not had any luck trying to be that thrifty; it has led to problems.
-Don't let your hot rodding, motorcycle riding, mini bike building buddies know you are good at powder coating if you don't want to be doing a lot of it.
 
Top