Points and Condensor? wtf?

#1
i was reading some other threads, and i seen points and condensor,

i want to re-build my HS40, will the new points and condensor help me? what do they look like? can anyone give me a link and tell me where they are located on my HS40,

also, where do you guys get that valve lapping paste? i cant seem to find it? whats a good brand to search for?:doah:
 
#6
Tecumseh Ignition Parts well there is a link to some .as for where are they . they are under the flywheel , the part you clean is the contacts . given that it sounds like you have never messed with something like this before i would get a book on the motor and read up on it . check you local library the should have some books on small engines . and where to valve grinding compound , any car parts place napa , car quest ,bumper to bumper .
 
#8
i have rebuilt many other engines and things, but mainly tuning and re-builds on real car motors, i just aqquired this rupp and im trying to gain knowledge on this HS40,

but i see, ill get the fw puller out later and see what going on under there,


another thing, i heard about someone using a mikuni carb, i want to replace the one on there seeing as its made of 2%metal and 98% RTV sealant,
what mm should i be looking for? like 20mm carb? im kinda looking for a stock upgrade thats more up-to-date with technology then a 72 rupp carb with a float,

and also, i know alot about main parts, just little stuff like "points" i didnt know where or what they were untill now on this motor,

and somone please explain this Nova transistor ignition, would it help me in any way with this HS40?
 
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#9
Tecumseh Ignition Parts well there is a link to some .as for where are they . they are under the flywheel , the part you clean is the contacts . given that it sounds like you have never messed with something like this before i would get a book on the motor and read up on it . check you local library the should have some books on small engines . and where to valve grinding compound , any car parts place napa , car quest ,bumper to bumper .
Yeah that is a REALLY GREAT idea.... especially if your flywheel is stuck on at all.. They get stuck on from being tight for so long and the Tecumsehs have a VERY sensitive crank shaft at the end. You can't go whacking on them with a hammer or you WILL RUIN the crankshaft for sure. I have taken apart junk motors before and even whacked the end of the shaft not caring about ruining the threads and expected to wreck them and BROKE THE WHOLE CRANK SHAFT OFF!!! THE PROPPER PULLER for your flywheel is your best bet.... You CAN go around the outside edge of it and GENTLY TAP the thing with a hammer or something and get a shock wave rolling through it and that helps get them to loosen off from the crank BUT DAMN man... hitting them AT ALL!!!l with anything is not your best bet.. The iron flywheels have magnets pretty well GLUED on them that runs your spark and THEY FALL OFF EASILY!!!! The aluminum flywheels you can crack and bend easily.. I DO NOT RECOMMEND beating any of it BUT that is how I do them because I've taken about a million of them off before and have a little practice.. I am good enough where I can pry the flywheel out forward with a screw driver from behind.. and give the ULTRA SENSITIVE crank shaft an ever so gentle tapperoo and it just all pops apart like magic.. BUT DON'T DO THAT!!!!
:doah: lol.. I would say read up on it FOR SURE!! Because even if you do everything like the book says, AND YOU TAKE THE MAGNETO STUFF OFF!! THEN you have to get the ignition timing correct again too. :doah: But I would say get a puller, read up, know what you are doing before hand, Make sure not to knock your magnets off taking the wheel on and off, and just remove the little spring clamp on the points cover and scuff them clean with a emery cloth or light sand paper.... A GOOD old boy trick of the 100 year olf farm guys is close a dollar bill up in them and use IT like sand paper.. Something about the dollar bill likes to absorb the corrosion on the point contacts.. Ive sanded them shiny before and STILL didn't work UNTIL I wiped them out with a dollar bill.. :doah: tecumseh points are a project for SURE if you've never seen them before....
 
#11
i have rebuilt many other engines and things, but mainly tuning and re-builds on real car motors, i just aqquired this rupp and im trying to gain knowledge on this HS40,

but i see, ill get the fw puller out later and see what going on under there,


another thing, i heard about someone using a mikuni carb, i want to replace the one on there seeing as its made of 2%metal and 98% RTV sealant,
what mm should i be looking for? like 20mm carb? im kinda looking for a stock upgrade thats more up-to-date with technology then a 72 rupp carb with a float,

and also, i know alot about main parts, just little stuff like "points" i didnt know where or what they were untill now on this motor,

and somone please explain this Nova transistor ignition, would it help me in any way with this HS40?
Ohhh yeah experience helps a lot. Eh, points under the flywheel and there they are. :thumbsup: As for mikunis and alcohol and shit like that on them, Those Tecumsehs aren't one for cranking the hell out of without probably at least an after market rod. Something about the tecumsehs they got a weak lower end. If it is an old and original mini bike HS40 I think I would double think crazy fast RPM's from a factory lower end without being afraid of breaking my toy. :sadcrying4: If it's a 1989 iron wheeled blower motor Run it's guts out. :thumbsup: They are pretty strong engines before they go :nuke: on themself..
 
#12
its governed and all, i just want to replace the carb, i dont wanna blow it, and i am not doing anything crazy, i just need some guidance on a new carb, ignition system and some explanations,

like that nova thing, whats that?

what else do i need to do to get this motor ready to go good again?
 
#13
If you are trying to stay under 100 horse power the original tecumseh fully adjustable carburetor in fairly good shape is one the best carbs ever made. :thumbsup: Anything I buid is ALWAYS a briggs 5 horse and Tecumseh carb... Because it will run like a dream faster than hell forever with no oil in it about..
 
#14
its governed and all, i just want to replace the carb, i dont wanna blow it, and i am not doing anything crazy
Most aftermarket carbs will delete the governor. Most on here say as long as you don't wring it out all the way it'll hold together. Brandt at Ruppparts.com sells billet rods for the HS40, thats the weak link.
 
#15
The Restore Kid im at a loss . if you think i meant hit the flywheel that is so not it . bumper to bumper is a car parts supply .
NOOooooo that's not what I intended to say... BUT it IS actually the best way to get one off.. I just didn't want to tell some 14 year old kid spending his allowance on old minibikes to go beating the hell out of a fine thread crank shaft. You KNOW how that turns out :hammer: Naa I'm sure this guy could handle it.. LEAVE THE NUT ON and flush, a light prying action.. gentle tap tapperoo... lol.. ya know? I just thought we were talking 14 year old kid never sen a motor before..
 
#16
if you read my first and second post, im not some kid, i am 27 and i have worked on motors before, i just finished my Pontiac 400 motor for my dads 1979 Trans Am, built it from just the block, so dont tell me im some 14 year old kid destroying a motor,

when i was 14-16 i did work on lawnmowers, minibikes and other motors, but after going away to school and moving into my new house, i totally forgot almost all i knew about the small motors, and some simple help to get me started would be nice, i bought this rupp for 80$ knowing it was special, and it is to me, i just wanna clean it up and get it going, it runs, just super rough, and smokes alot,
 
#17
if you read my first and second post, im not some kid, i am 27 and i have worked on motors before, i just finished my Pontiac 400 motor for my dads 1979 Trans Am, built it from just the block, so dont tell me im some 14 year old kid destroying a motor,

when i was 14-16 i did work on lawnmowers, minibikes and other motors, but after going away to school and moving into my new house, i totally forgot almost all i knew about the small motors, and some simple help to get me started would be nice, i bought this rupp for 80$ knowing it was special, and it is to me, i just wanna clean it up and get it going, it runs, just super rough, and smokes alot,
Hell yeah :thumbsup: Experience means a LOT.. Smoke is not uncommon from those old motors. I had one you could smell the oil burning when you were flying down the road... That is just typical rebuild stuff there, hone, rings, valves, that kind of stuff... 80 bucks is cheap. :thumbsup:
 
#18
ok, yeah, it was such a deal, this kid had it sitting in his garage, and i was like, 50$ for that minibike, and he said, no, so i said 70?, he said 80 and its a deal, lol, he got owned!

anyways, what does "hone" mean is it when you get light sandpaper and cross-scuff the cylinder walls? i heard that somwhere here,

but for the other stuff, i bought a carb re-build kit, rings, valve paste, a whole gasket set, fixed the torq-a-verter, got a coupler for the exaust pipe, and a new CJ8 plug gapped to .030 factory specs :wink: once i put it together and spring rolls around, im off, so i have put about 140$ into this thing already, i hope it works,

but tonight i was out there, i has some spare time after working on the headers for the 400, i pulled out the rupp, fired it up (with no torq-a-verter on) and it idles decnt on half choke, but smokes (remember this is before re-build), when choke is off, it dies unless full throttle is applied, then itll revv to the governor, then backfires a bit, cuts out and dies, where then i have to go to full choke for about 4 pulls and get it going again, btu on half choke it goes alright, just when riding it dies out, backfires and has random smoke sprees, hopefully with a perfect tune and setup these symptoms will go away,

i did however take a dremel and smooth out the ports a bit, on the intake and the exaust, there was what look like a little overflow from the factory mold, but it wasd thick, so it wouldent of fallen off, but i took it off just to smooth it out in there,

and what does it mean when my piston has chips taken out of the top of it and around the sides, about 3 chips in total, 1 off center on the top, and the other 2 on the side edge of the top, sorry for the long post :surrender:
 
#19
something got in the chamber and chiped at it. i would pull and inspect. my dirtbike has a huge chip on the piston but worked great till i got a nice view off the inside (broken rod)
 
#20
The electronic ignition revolution has left a lot of people confused about they way things worked in the old days. Remember measuring Dwell lol?

A young Mechanic at work was listening to me ( an electrician) talking to another grey beard about spill timing an injection pump. Smart boy good mechanic but completely clueless as to what we were talking about. Comon rail injection and electronics have made spill timing something no one even teaches anymore.

Points aren't even replaced cleaned or gapped much anymore why would you when modern ignitions are cheaper than the replacement parts.
 
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