What is a briggs-3 are you talking about a 3 horse briggs? The flatheads look period correct and to me better than the OHV style slanted engine. I don't think a predator vibrates any more or less than a flathead but it certainly has more low end torque and can put out more HP easier than a flathead. So I guess it comes down to performance vs the better look, and a 5hp briggs has more than enough power for just a rider if you are not interested in all out power.
From what it seems like, the old flatheads go almost forever, even if horribly abused (as long as they are not wound beyond what the connecting rod can take). I can't speak on behalf of the chinky-china engines, but I've heard good about them as well, although I question their longevity in comparison.
Pound for pound, the predator will probably make more power than a flathead would due to being an OHV... but then again, I can't really say for sure.
I do know that flatheads are retardedly simple to work on.
Pound for pound, the predator will probably make more power than a flathead would due to being an OHV... but then again, I can't really say for sure.
I do know that flatheads are retardedly simple to work on.
If you think putting a stock flathead back together, or servicing one is complicated in the least other than using a set of feeler gauges & a valve spring compressor (surprise, screwdrivers work too), maybe you need to let someone who has half a brain put things together for you. Likewise, if they are REALLY that hard to work on for you, maybe you should take up a more simple hobby, like art.
8th graders in my little sister's Ag class do it with ease with minimal instruction. I can tell you from first hand experience that they are the furthest thing from bright.
8th graders in my little sister's Ag class do it with ease with minimal instruction. I can tell you from first hand experience that they are the furthest thing from bright.
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Again, when brain-dead, pot-smoking 8th graders can put one together with minimal instruction, and it runs, I say it's pretty simple. I've put my share of them together, and they are the furthest thing from complicated.
No, really. Take one apart if you haven't & see for yourself. Get out your spec sheet, torque everything down per spec, set gaps to spec, & you're golden.
Anything that can be moved out of adjustment can be marked with a sharpie for future reassembly reference points.
Uh huh.
Let me fill you in champ, I build things that withstand proof loads up to & including 120,000PSI without catastrophically disassembling themselves. Then, those things survive standard operating pressures of 45,000PSI & up for the rest of their service lives. That involves judicious load development, spotless machining, & fitment of parts that barely clear each other when engaged. I work with tools that cost THOUSANDS of dollars that I've accumulated over my relatively short lifespan.
I take it people actually pay you to assemble engines? That would probably explain why you step on the pissy-pedal every time I suggest someone get out their feeler gauges, torque wrench, & socket set.
Not to join in the pissing contest here, but that statement is incorrect. I've been called out on this before; being "OCD" when it comes to putting these motors together, but there is a big difference between a Briggs and Stratton magnetron ignition (or other magnet-driven solid state timing system) and the points and timing of a Tecumseh. You aren't timing the latter with a sharpie....especially since 9 times out of 10, the previous guy did exactly that, and it runs like shit, and shears the key every once in awhile.
Setting timing on a Tec is more tedious (not hard) than setting valve clearance on a OHV.
As far as the original question, the comparison between a Briggs 3 and a OHV 6.5 HP is apples and oranges. The 212 will vibrate more, but then it has twice the power.
The question is, what application are you referring to? A vintage, restored mini bike or kart where you want it to be correct? Or just a knock about rider quality fun machine?
I just finished up a Tecumseh H35 and put it back on the original bike. Before that, I had a 5.5 clone on it, just for testing the chassis. The H35 pulls just as good as the 5.5. Way less vibration, but admittedly slower off the line. Slightly. A 212 would have been a way better engine, and probably would make a great rider out of that particular bike.
Hard to beat 99 bucks. But so far, I've refrained from putting a clone on a vintage mini bike. I wouldn't hesitate to build one up for a drag project however.
Setting timing on a Tec is more tedious (not hard) than setting valve clearance on a OHV.
As far as the original question, the comparison between a Briggs 3 and a OHV 6.5 HP is apples and oranges. The 212 will vibrate more, but then it has twice the power.
The question is, what application are you referring to? A vintage, restored mini bike or kart where you want it to be correct? Or just a knock about rider quality fun machine?
I just finished up a Tecumseh H35 and put it back on the original bike. Before that, I had a 5.5 clone on it, just for testing the chassis. The H35 pulls just as good as the 5.5. Way less vibration, but admittedly slower off the line. Slightly. A 212 would have been a way better engine, and probably would make a great rider out of that particular bike.
Hard to beat 99 bucks. But so far, I've refrained from putting a clone on a vintage mini bike. I wouldn't hesitate to build one up for a drag project however.