And reaching your choke is going to be easier than reaching for the kill wire lever thingy you installed on your plug shorting strip? No, it's not. It's a bad solution.
You do not have to "Pull your engine apart" to install a kill wire, but you do have to remove the recoil shroud. Depending on your model of engine, it will most likely be the three bolts at the top holding the head on, and two bolts near the bottom on each side at about the five and seven oclock positions. Pull the shroud and locate the wires where they come out of the housing for the points. Essentially the only wires you will see- excluding the plug wire.
You will need to get a wire terminal to fit the terminal on the back of the electrical connection to the points. It will probably be a red color coded terminal of 18-22 gauge found in most home wiring kits, or from any hardware store.
Note that the switch minibikin directed you do is a good choice, but that connection may not fit, it someone else has already removed the spade connector that came on your engine initially.
Once you establish which electrical connector you need, attach the wire and tighten everything back up MAKING SURE THAT NO WIRE IS TOUCHING THE ENGINE. (except for the terminal of course) The switch that Minibikin recommends just needs to be hooked to your handlebars to provide a ground once the button is pushed. Others require a second wire going to a ground. A ground is any piece of metal anywhere that isn't painted.
How it works is that when that wire going to your points touches any metal, it will "short" causing your points to not carry the electricity necessary to fire your coil.
I don't have a book in front of me to tell you what the torque is supposed to be on the head bolts, but in reality since you are not torquing all bolts on a new head gasket, I'd got for about 200 inch pounds and no more with a bit of oil on the threads before inserting.
Here is a video- first one I clicked on- that shows the wire etc.
