SprayMax Urethane ClearCoat

B

bed9fc

New Member
#1
#1
Hello All,
I am in the process of restoring a 69 and 70 Rupp Roadster. I am fortunate that the 70 roadster I bought from a Shiner and the chrome is awesome as well as the paint. The 69 I purchased with the incorrect engine, but still had the lights and switches, score. I have found a replacement engine and added an alternator and all is well. Problem is the engine is the incorrect color as well as the gas tank. I am not too worried about the engine tins, but will use a high temp engine paint for that purpose. I am worried about the gas tank. I want to use the same engine paint for the tank, but gas just isn't nice to most paints unless its urethane based. My question is this: Can I use the same engine paint on the tank and use a two part urethane clearcoat for gas resistance? I spoke with R&E Paint Supply and they swear by this product for clearcoating without a sprayer and say that many of their customers use this product specifically for gas tanks on their motorcycle. Note this is a two part urethane clear coat in an aerosol can!!!!!!

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SprayMax 3680061 Urethane Clear coat Spray

SprayMax 3680061, 2K Urethane Clear Coat, Aerosol

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If anyone has used this product, let me know your results. If I hear nothing in the next week or so, I will purchase and let the group know the results.

Sincerely,

Brian
 
capguncowboy

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
I used standard spray paint on my 1970 rupp Roadster tank and engine then oversprayed it with Eastwood's 2k clearcoat. It looked flawless, but I did notice that in places like the fill neck on the tank, the paint was starting to bubble after just a few weeks. It was fine for drips and drops, but I wouldn't use it anywhere that the gas or gas vapors would be exposed to it for long periods of time.
 
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John G.

John G.

#3
#3
I use it all the time, great stuff. I use it on everything from frames to engine tins and gas tanks. It does hold up very well to gas and oil, i have never had a problem. Only compliant is it is a little pricey. Make sure you do wear a respirator when spraying it due to the catalyst .
 
Raskin

Raskin

#4
#4
suggest using Rustoleum engine enamel ...home depot..if you can find color you want..is oil and gas resistant and up to 500° not that that matters in that application..used that some sucess..easy touch up if needed
 
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creia

creia

#5
#5
bed9fc said:
Hello All,
I am in the process of restoring a 69 and 70 Rupp Roadster. I am fortunate that the 70 roadster I bought from a Shiner and the chrome is awesome as well as the paint. The 69 I purchased with the incorrect engine, but still had the lights and switches, score. I have found a replacement engine and added an alternator and all is well. Problem is the engine is the incorrect color as well as the gas tank. I am not too worried about the engine tins, but will use a high temp engine paint for that purpose. I am worried about the gas tank. I want to use the same engine paint for the tank, but gas just isn't nice to most paints unless its urethane based. My question is this: Can I use the same engine paint on the tank and use a two part urethane clearcoat for gas resistance? I spoke with R&E Paint Supply and they swear by this product for clearcoating without a sprayer and say that many of their customers use this product specifically for gas tanks on their motorcycle. Note this is a two part urethane clear coat in an aerosol can!!!!!!

*******************************************************************************************
SprayMax 3680061 Urethane Clear coat Spray

SprayMax 3680061, 2K Urethane Clear Coat, Aerosol

********************************************************************************************

If anyone has used this product, let me know your results. If I hear nothing in the next week or so, I will purchase and let the group know the results.

Sincerely,

Brian
Click to expand...
Is the fuel tank metal or plastic?
Michael
 
mini one

mini one

#6
#6
:thumbs: 17.00 is a good price, i think i paid 25.00-ish
I have used it on an old Allis Chalmers tractor gas tank about a week or less? after repainting it. Right over the paint with no sanding etc. Probably would've looked better if I sanded first then applied the clear but I was only going for gas resistance and it does work great. Over-filled that tank more times than I can count.
Wear a correct respirator, dust masks are just for looks...
 
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Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#7
#7
I use Eastwood 2K on all my engine restorations/builds. I clear the tins and tanks with it. Once cured, it is quite hard and does nicely with gas/other solvents. Just lightly scuff the base paint to give the urethane something to bite into. I use regular spray paints on blocks if I paint them.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#9
#9
I've never used the aerosol type, so I cant comment on the quality, but several here have said good things about the Eastwood. I do not recommend scuffing base coat prior to urethane spraying because any scratching will show, and any additives to the paint, such as pearl will reflect. You should never need to scuff for urethane. I am sorry to differ on opinion here, again, I only intend to assist, not bandy about my years of painting experience.

Instead, apply the urethane over the base coat as soon as the base coat solvent flashes. Even if it's slightly tacky, the urethane will cover with no problems, and this is the recommended method of application by Eastwood and other jobbers. You want the urethane to be applied over the base coat while it is still drying, usually within 24 hours. With a gun, I apply the clear as soon as I have the base coat cleaned out of the gun- about 25 minutes between base and clear.

ONLY if you are clear coating old, or damaged paint should roughing and feathering be done, but even then, the old paint should be removed anyway and the entire paint job started over.

With your engine and tank being the same color, you will be happier if you cover the engine tins at least in the urethane. The difference in the gloss between top coated and not top coated will be extremely noticeable.

Sorry for the novel here. One last consideration on gas tanks. You will be taping the tank off somewhere at the cap threads, lower. When you go for the application of clear, tape the cap above the line you taped for the base, so the clear overlaps it. This will prevent fuel from wicking into the base, creeping down the neck and causing bubbles in the paint.

Best of luck, and please post up the results. HD.
 
CarPlayLB

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#10
#10
Havasu Dave is correct! Again, dammit!
Clear coat works much better when applied over a freshly flashed base coat! this allows the clear to bond with the base and come together in a blissful union! If the base coat was applied correctly and has no blemishes, the clear will enhance the color without the need to sand it first. The integrity of the clear will be a ton better as there is no chance of anything left over from the sanding and subsequent cleaning of the base coat...and it is easier for us lazy guys to get a professional job done! Put away your sandpaper and spray away!
 
capguncowboy

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#11
#11
Havasu Dave said:
One last consideration on gas tanks. You will be taping the tank off somewhere at the cap threads, lower. When you go for the application of clear, tape the cap above the line you taped for the base, so the clear overlaps it. This will prevent fuel from wicking into the base, creeping down the neck and causing bubbles in the paint.
Click to expand...
Thanks Dave, that's an excellent tip.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#13
#13
RustyRedneck said:
I've heard it is also important to do everything with the same brand of paint from primer to clear. Is it as critical with a rattle can or more so?
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No. Automotive paints: These companies are in business to sell their products, so of course they will post dire warnings about mixing products. When you start getting in to your multi-stage, high end paint jobs, then yes, it "could" matter, but these days, even candies are urethane or acrylic, so it's not such a big deal.

A friend of mine was the owner of a successful body and paint shop in SoCal for several decades. (He gave the business to his son who now does high end car restorations) He, and those guys use one type of primer, another type of base, and another type of clear.

Hardware store spray paints: You will get varying degrees of color differences between different MFGR's products, even though they are labeled the same. So this can be a problem, and a rule of thumb is to try and stick with the same MFGR, although I don't always. You also don't want to put lacquer over enamel, including primers.

But as far as the original post concerning the urethane clears, they will go over anything that isn't petroleum. Rust, dust, bugs, no problem. Another tip you'll read on any MFGR of clear urethane is to scuff up "cured" base coats with 800-1000 grit. That is what they "recommend," and they say it because they don't want a poor paint job to be "their" problem.

Clear over Cured Base Coats: In reality, I've gone several weeks between painting a Tecumseh engine with black spray paint from ACE, blew off the dust with my air chuck, and squirted urethane clear over it with no problems.

If it makes you feel better, you can certainly scuff it up and blow it off, and tack rag it. However if you used some fancy rattle can (or even automotive base) with pearl or flakes, the sand paper will knock off the dyed bits off the pearl/flake leaving it it's original white plastic color. Might be micron-sized, but it will show up in the work after the clear is shot. Solid colors like white, or black, no problem. But instead of scuffing it an clearing it, scuff it and shoot another coat of the base coat, then clear it within 30 minutes.
 
creia

creia

#14
#14
The OP never answered my question if the tank is metal or plastic. Very good advice from above ^^^, however, only if the tank is METAL. If it is a PLASTIC tank all bets are off as paint will peel off of a plastic tank as the gas fumes will eventually permeate through the plastic unless you coat the inside with a product like Caswells.
Michael
 
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H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#16
#16
bed9fc said:
The tank I need to paint is plastic and a very ugly grey.
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Well that changes everything. So my 1000 word essay was a waste. LOL! Yes, as Michael says you should coat the inside with Caswell's, or at least that is what I have heard. Conversely, you could do your primer with a catalyzed version out of a spray gun.

There was a guy on here a couple of years ago, a plastics expert or in that field. He spoke about using an open flame on plastic tanks prior to painting. I think Markus has done that too. I don't know squat about this, so I'm out. :) [MENTION=5969]markus[/MENTION]
 
creia

creia

#17
#17
bed9fc said:
The tank I need to paint is plastic and a very ugly grey.
Click to expand...
Gee, that sure would have been nice to know!! I strongly suspected it was and that is exactly WHY I asked. A lot of wasted time and effort by our knowledgable and caring members with their replies trying to help. Personally, I am done with this guy as he STILL has not even had the courtesy to thank anyone for their replies...
Michael
 
B

bed9fc

New Member
#18
#18
First off, I am not sure where the hostility came from. Thanks everyone for the input. I have often had questions about urethane coatings on plastic as well as metal and more importantly the prep work required to get not a good finish, but great finish. The responses listed by all are greatly appreciated and look forward to suggestions in the future.

I am greatly intrigued by the idea that I don’t need to mix up a two part clear coat and spray via the HPLV and use an easier method to apply a sturdy coating.

Brian
 
ole4

ole4

#19
#19
When I painted my rupp engine I used summit single stage white which is impervious to gas (urethane) My tank was plastic and I first used a adhesion promotor and epoxy primer, came out great but now after 9 months I see a bubble in the paint at least a inch around. I need to order more dragon blood or make a metal tank.
 
Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#20
#20
Personally, I learned my lesson with a plastic tank. I'd avoid it if I could. If it's white, some folks have suggested Beauty Shop hydrogen peroxide--google it within the forum and I think several tips will pop up. I haven't tried Caswells or Red Coat on a plastic tank, stands to reason it'll work if it adheres to the plastic.

An aside, I also learned another lesson with epoxies (i.e., JB Weld) and <<steel fuel tanks>>--the gas ate the epoxy--and I hadn't learned about silver soldering, yet.
 
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