Strocker motor
- Thread starter vwfan79
- Start date
I work in quality control for a extremities foot and ankle company. I can assure you the medical tolerance acceptances are a lot tighter then an engine. Your average blue print is on any .XXX dimention is +/-.005 unless the tolerances are given on the print. A small gas engine is not gonna have a .001 tolerance and/or be within .001 tolerance of one another. Unless they have an CMM measuring even tighter tolerances to go beyond .001 to .0009 or further .00001 in which I'm very accustom to seeing in a lot of the product we machine in house and vend out. But like I said, .001 on a small gas engine LOL.
I wasn't bashing Honda just curious how the engine case on the $329.99 retail engine is per say $229.99 better. Not talking about the internals b/c they are built a little better. And my comment was that of retail pricing not Craigslist special. I would buy up any GX model if I found them for $50 a pop used!
I know this much if you ask anyone who builds big HP motors, they will tell you start with a HONDA a block or brace the hell out of the predator or clone . A lot of builders will use HONDA cranks in clones that are heavily braced . The reason clone are used in racing THEY ARE CHEAP IN PRICE AND QUAlLITY . The price part makes racing easier on most .
Know one can argue that HONDA doesn't build the best motor hands down .
I have a GX160 on my rupp that built pretty strong . That same motor was on a air compressor that I framed with for years had to have 3k to 4k hours minimum. After going though two pumps and finally have the tanks crack in places I retired it . Then it
sat for a few years in the garage and I decided to build it . The motor ran fine when put away , the only time the oil got changed was when it got low and wouldn't start then just added . The motor when taken apart was in excellent shape inside . Gave it a quick hone and new Honda flat top piston and clearances were good . The motor will pull right at 8,000 RPMs and not blink . HONDAS rule
Know one can argue that HONDA doesn't build the best motor hands down .
I have a GX160 on my rupp that built pretty strong . That same motor was on a air compressor that I framed with for years had to have 3k to 4k hours minimum. After going though two pumps and finally have the tanks crack in places I retired it . Then it
sat for a few years in the garage and I decided to build it . The motor ran fine when put away , the only time the oil got changed was when it got low and wouldn't start then just added . The motor when taken apart was in excellent shape inside . Gave it a quick hone and new Honda flat top piston and clearances were good . The motor will pull right at 8,000 RPMs and not blink . HONDAS rule
OK I just used the number .001 to make a point. Facts are that a Honda motor is better in material, quality, reliability and tolerances then any clone especially a dam predator.
Now I would appreciate if you take your opinions about starting with a high quality block to another thread so I can continue my MOTOR BUILD THREAD here. There are already plenty of threads about why Hondas are better and lack of quality of predators go fill up those pages and leave this thread for building a badass gx160 stroker motor, thank you.
Now I would appreciate if you take your opinions about starting with a high quality block to another thread so I can continue my MOTOR BUILD THREAD here. There are already plenty of threads about why Hondas are better and lack of quality of predators go fill up those pages and leave this thread for building a badass gx160 stroker motor, thank you.
This thread was started so people interested in building a stroker motor have a thread with a lot of good info. You want to discuss the material breakdown between a Honda and a Predator start a new thread. FACTS ARE A HONDA IS SUPERIOR TO A $99 HARBOR FREIGHT CLONE HANDS DOWN....and I'm not your f×$#&@% bruh.
Nick went back over the thread at bobs and seems like three guys have built that motor and nobody said anything different on parts , or that anything had to be cut . just clearance on the block . The exact piston number thats given is a stock bore but it has the same compression height as yours .640 .
Gx200 internals in a Gx160 block??
The Gx160 crank rod and piston combo height is 129.4 mm
The Gx200 crank rod and piston combo height is 133.9 mm, 4.5 mm more than the Gx160 or have the stroke difference between the two motors.
The stock Gx160 and 200 have the same rods and pistons.
Your crank, rod and piston combo is 134.569 mm, 5.169 mm (0.203'') positive deck in your Gx160 block (assuming a zero deck dimension).
A stock rod on your combo will be 127.156 mm, 2.244 mm (0.088'') negative deck, same block.
Your crank rod and piston combo is 0.026'' longer than a stock Gx200
For your combo to work you need ether a 160 crank or a 200 block.
The Gx160 crank rod and piston combo height is 129.4 mm
The Gx200 crank rod and piston combo height is 133.9 mm, 4.5 mm more than the Gx160 or have the stroke difference between the two motors.
The stock Gx160 and 200 have the same rods and pistons.
Your crank, rod and piston combo is 134.569 mm, 5.169 mm (0.203'') positive deck in your Gx160 block (assuming a zero deck dimension).
A stock rod on your combo will be 127.156 mm, 2.244 mm (0.088'') negative deck, same block.
Your crank rod and piston combo is 0.026'' longer than a stock Gx200
For your combo to work you need ether a 160 crank or a 200 block.
just for haha's when i tore mine down and put in the 200 crank . i put the stock rod and piston back to take a look at where it was at . and it seems like you have even more pop up than i had with stock stuff . unfortunately i did not get pics but i will throw it back together and take some :thumbsup: