Strocker motor

trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#61
#61
David wulf said:
From what I read the 160 and 200 share the same piston an rod combo and the difference is the stroke on the crank . That said what pop up you have should be the difference in stroke .
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yeah david i realize that :thumbsup: but that was with 160 block 200 crank 160 rod and piston . all i am saying is i did not even have the pop up that nick has with the rod and piston he ordered :thumbsup: almost to the point if the face of the piston was thick enough it could just be milled to compensate . can someone post or send me a link to the thread on bob's i would appreciate it
 
vwfan79

vwfan79

Active Member
#62
#62
So I talked to my engine guru friend and he said the ones where they are having block and piston skirt clearance issues they are using a stock length rod and Honda ut1 piston. To run this set up I will need to have the piston cut. I just measured everything and I'm .155" out of the hole and I have .230 from to ring groove to piston top. If I have the piston cut to give me .010 pop up it will leave about .100 of meat on the piston, so I need to call my guy and ask if this is enough.
 
David wulf

David wulf

#63
#63
Nick I have a PM sent to the guy who wrote that thread to try to find out what's going on . Something still just doesn't seem right. That damn thread made it sound so easy .
 
David wulf

David wulf

#64
#64
trinik7597 said:
yeah david i realize that :thumbsup: but that was with 160 block 200 crank 160 rod and piston . all i am saying is i did not even have the pop up that nick has with the rod and piston he ordered :thumbsup: almost to the point if the face of the piston was thick enough it could just be milled to compensate . can someone post or send me a link to the thread on bob's i would appreciate it
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Go to bobs4 cycle , to the engine threads , to the Honda section and I thing page 3 . The thread is by modified man .
If it's not page 3 , it's either 2-4 there's only 7 total so it's not hard to find
 
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vwfan79

vwfan79

Active Member
#65
#65
OK David, I know it sounded like buy these parts and clearance here and your good. Going fast and making power is never that easy or everyone would do it. I will say I'm building this motor no matter what. I think cutting the piston will work fine and gives .145 of more stroke.
 
vwfan79

vwfan79

Active Member
#67
#67
So I talked to my buddy and he said because it's a forged piston that .080 of meat is plenty. Even milled to 0 deck height leaves .075 to the top of the top ring groove and the material goes down to the oil ring groove. This means I have plenty of room to mill the piston to give me .007 out if the hole. He said the magic # for piston to head clearance is .030, I've ran with less but he says that's the magic number. I know I can get a .037 big bore MLS head gasket so I'm thinks .007 out of the hole and that gasket and I'll be golden. Now to call my machinist and get the piston cut.
 
SnakePliscan

SnakePliscan

New Member
#68
#68
So is it okay to say the Gx160 has a (approx 4.5mm) shorter block, and anybody stroking this motor is probably flat topping a dished piston?

Honda nicely varies the block height so the smaller displacement motors are more compact, small motor = small foot print?
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#70
#70
funny they call the 6234 arc rod short but it is .292 longer than a stock length rod ?? i know you have more into than this :thumbsup: but why not just order a stock length rod and cut a stock dished piston to zero deck :shrug:
 
David wulf

David wulf

#71
#71
trinik7597 said:
funny they call the 6234 arc rod short but it is .292 longer than a stock length rod ?? i know you have more into than this :thumbsup: but why not just order a stock length rod and cut a stock dished piston to zero deck :shrug:
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I'am pretty sure he has the block bored already for the big slug .
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#74
#74
vwfan79 said:
I do have my block bored for a 2.815 piston but with stock bore I think you have more options and that us probably one of them.
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thanks nick think i will put the stock rod and piston back in and check clearances and pop out to get a better idea :thumbsup: sorry not trying to hijack just asking questions
 
vwfan79

vwfan79

Active Member
#75
#75
That's what this thread for, as much info about building one of these motors as possible. Weather your using stock bore or big bore the more info the better so keep the questions coming. Just keep adding your experiences with combinations using stock bore, I'm probably gonna do a stock bore one too.
 
trinik7597

trinik7597

Active Member
#76
#76
Ok so there are multiple problems with using stock or stock size stuff !!! first is the crank hits the piston skirt . second is the rod hits the top of the block hard from what i can see block would definitely need support to clearance as much as it would take . and the pop out is right to the first ring :thumbsup:
 
vwfan79

vwfan79

Active Member
#77
#77
Looks like you got about the same pop up as my setup. Yes the skirt has to be clearanced along with the block. I think the ut1 piston has the wrist pin further up in the piston giving less pop out. Something don't jive with the parts list on bobs forum.
 
vwfan79

vwfan79

Active Member
#80
#80
OK so here is where I'm at and kinda stuck for now. I had the piston cut but they couldn't cut it as much as I wanted due to the recess in the center on the bottom side. There was only gonna be .022 of material left, so I had them cut it to leave .075. Well this puts me .060 out of the hole which would take a lot of head gasket to make up. I need to find a shorter rod or maybe a small spacer. I know people have cut the head to accept the piston for pop up, this may be my next trip to the machine shop. Oh ya I do need to clearance the block for the rod, don't know what happened during the first mock that made it look like I didn't need to clearance but I do.
 
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