T555 Project Begins

#1
I picked this trike up from a buddy of mine. He bought it for the Cushman engine that was cobbled on it. Since I had no interest in the Cushman, the frame was extra to him and cheap.
My plans are just make it run and drive.
I have a 8hp Tecumseh engine from a snow blower for power. It runs but has fuel delivery issues. Like the bowl is full of rust.
The Predator I'm using for my Boonie Bike came with a 420 clutch, and the trike has a 420 sprocket. Easy decision there.
Main parts to order are brake cables and bands. I have to figure out what ones will work with my original handles.. My handle bars are 1" so that makes things more fun to find. I also am trying to find a thumb throttle for 1" Handlebars.
Anyway on to some pictures
20220503_163221.jpg 20220503_163228.jpg IMG_2420.jpg IMG_2419.jpg 20220528_112036.jpg IMG_2418.jpg
 
#4
I'm not 100% sure what is going on with the piece of the t/c on there. The other end doesn't have a sprocket or anything on it. I was just going to start with a Clutch and see how it does. I'll get a better picture of it tomorrow. I don't think I can't turn the axle around with doing a lot of rebuilding of brackets.
 
#7
https://oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/my-terrain-cycle.164711/#post-1206236

Awesome project
here's few pics of my old trike that might help you out.

I wouldn't put a clutch on one of these trikes probably wouldn't last or work so well.
Thanks for the link to your thread.
I just read it and will get some better pictures today of the t/c parts on it.
I also did some research last night and it looks like the Peerless axle or parts are available. I guess I might follow that Wascally Wabbit down into that hole of tearing it apart.
 
#8
Before I go chasing rabbits down random holes is there a discussion on here about how to pick the proper torque converter? Or are they all the same? Im pretty sure I'm not going to use whats on there now. 20220530_094437.jpg 20220530_094507.jpg

I also got the 8 hp Tecumseh running. Carb bowl was trashed with rust. Good thing it has a plastic tank, or it would have been worse. All the rust was from the steel plugs in the carb as far as I can tell. 20220530_185252.jpg 20220530_185341.jpg

And then the needle was closed before the float was raised enough to get the bowl on. I used a pick to clean out the seat area. I thought it was some kind of white corrosion in there, but it was an old rubber seat. It was swelled up and trashed. I pulled it out and replaced it with a short piece of hose. 20220530_201456.jpg
The hose isn't exactly the proper length yet. The float is not pushing the needle up and shutting off the gas yet. I ran out of time and didn't have a chance to fix the float level.

I know, Amazon has a new carb for $15. I'll probably get one, but this was to see if I could get the engine to run tonight. And I did.
 
#9
That t/c is right, turn the whole shaft around 1/2 turn, put the snap ring up against the t/c and the other end of the shaft will stick out with its keyway ready for the sprocket. Turn the axle end for end so now the axle sprocket will align with the little sprocket where it is keyed to that shaft.
In the picture section you may find clear pictures of what your drive train should look like.
If that doesn't work, somebody will chime in and set us both straight!
 
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