Throttle cable direct link to the governor lever for bypassing governor?

bpjacobsen

bpjacobsen

New Member
#1
#1
Has anyone tried just connecting the throttle cable directly to the lever that controls the governor throttle? Seems like if I can manually move that lever with my finger to get full throttle without governor, one should be able to just connect to that lever instead of the one by the carb? Only challenge I see is that the lever moves backwards and not forwards so I guess that is my answer. But curious if anyone has ever tried to do this?
 
SAS289

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
I don't think many have ran this way because there are so many better and safer ways to run higher than max governed RPM.

Your idea may cause the engine to be more difficult to start, and run faster than it was designed to run.

In this forum we recommend prepping the engine for safer high RPM operation. The routine is to open the engine and replace the connecting rod with a billet rod. The stock flywheel is replaced with an aftermarket flywheel that can safely run at high RPM. While the engine is open is the time to remove the governor parts. Then you set up your linkage for use without the governor parts.

What engine and bike do you have?
 
bpjacobsen

bpjacobsen

New Member
#3
#3
SAS289 said:
I don't think many have ran this way because there are so many better and safer ways to run higher than max governed RPM.

Your idea may cause the engine to be more difficult to start, and run faster than it was designed to run.

In this forum we recommend prepping the engine for safer high RPM operation. The routine is to open the engine and replace the connecting rod with a billet rod. The stock flywheel is replaced with an aftermarket flywheel that can safely run at high RPM. While the engine is open is the time to remove the governor parts. Then you set up your linkage for use without the governor parts.

What engine and bike do you have?
Click to expand...
Manco thunderbird with a Robin 4hp 126cc engine. How difficult is the above suggested mod and what is the cost?
 
SAS289

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#4
#4
For that engine I don't think you will ever find billet parts. I would still suggest not to over rev the engine with linkage manipulations.
 
sparkwizard

sparkwizard

#6
#6
Good decision. You might be able to add some speed, but your power would not increase, if that makes you feel better.
If you ride on flat, smooth level roads or hard packed dirt, putting a smaller sprocket on the back wheel might be an option. That will reduce your acceleration but boost your top speed.
Look into replacing your clutch with a torque converter. That is the best of both worlds with a governed single cylinder engine.
Welcome to the hobby, have fun and be safe.
 
bpjacobsen

bpjacobsen

New Member
#7
#7
sparkwizard said:
Good decision. You might be able to add some speed, but your power would not increase, if that makes you feel better.
If you ride on flat, smooth level roads or hard packed dirt, putting a smaller sprocket on the back wheel might be an option. That will reduce your acceleration but boost your top speed.
Look into replacing your clutch with a torque converter. That is the best of both worlds with a governed single cylinder engine.
Welcome to the hobby, have fun and be safe.
Click to expand...
Just wondering if you know if anyone has done a torque converter on this mini bike? Something I was considering. Is thought a link to one That would work for this bike?
 
sparkwizard

sparkwizard

#8
#8
I think they are pretty much universal. I am not familiar with that bike, but they all take some tinkering to get them working, initially.
For the price you can get a kit from Amazon, I suggest maybe ride this summer and get a kit to tinker with this fall or winter.
That's why we call it a hobby.:scooter: Enjoy!
 
sparkwizard

sparkwizard

#10
#10
Does your engine have four threaded holes in the side if the engine, next to the clutch? If so, it should fit the engine.
Then you need to measure the diameter of the shaft going through your clutch. The one you linked is for a 3/4 inch shaft. Also, do some searching to see what the difference is between #35 chain and #41. I would imagine your bike has #35 chain on it.
 
bpjacobsen

bpjacobsen

New Member
#11
#11
sparkwizard said:
Does your engine have four threaded holes in the side if the engine, next to the clutch? If so, it should fit the engine.
Then you need to measure the diameter of the shaft going through your clutch. The one you linked is for a 3/4 inch shaft. Also, do some searching to see what the difference is between #35 chain and #41. I would imagine your bike has #35 chain on it.
Click to expand...
mine is a #35 chain. It does have the 4 threaded holes around the clutch. two of them are being used to mount the chain guard bracket but it has no chain guard. The manual I found online has no info on shaft size and I would have to remove the clutch to measure it which if I do consider doing this, no biggie. but it sounds like it may be a candidate. I opened another thread to see if anyone has done it for this engine but if you have links to any videos that would give me a good idea of what is involved, please let me know. My plan is to maybe do a torque converter AND a smaller rear sprocket if feasible. (not sure how easy it is to find one or what size to look for?) Also, does installing this require removing the governor? The current rear sprocket is a the large 72 tooth kind I believe. Wonder if this 60 tooth one would work? looks like same 4 bolts pattern: https://www.amazon.com/Tooth-Chain-Sprocket-Steel-Predator/dp/B09MYDS96R/ref=sr_1_14_sspa?crid=VO5ZJEX7J8HX&keywords=rear+sprocket+for+mini+bike+#35&qid=1685583052&sprefix=rear+sprocket+for+mini+bike+35,aps,110&sr=8-14-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTjQ3MTYyUlk5NFY2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjIzMTgwOUVGQlRKRkxVMFdPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NDE5ODIzTktQUTRHRThCQzVVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

looks like maybe this one should work? https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Conv...mzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

it has the #35 sprocket
 
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sparkwizard

sparkwizard

#14
#14
If you do not have a chain guard, you should be able to see the end on the crankshaft. There might be a big washer and a bolt in the end of it. Remove that bolt and measure the end of the shaft in the center of the clutch. It is probably 3/4 inch, but it might be smaller. Verify that before you order a torque converter. I would leave that big sprocket on there. You will be surprised at the difference in performance. As stated above, that is a pretty small engine but it is on there and it works. Have fun.
 
bpjacobsen

bpjacobsen

New Member
#15
#15
sparkwizard said:
If you do not have a chain guard, you should be able to see the end on the crankshaft. There might be a big washer and a bolt in the end of it. Remove that bolt and measure the end of the shaft in the center of the clutch. It is probably 3/4 inch, but it might be smaller. Verify that before you order a torque converter. I would leave that big sprocket on there. You will be surprised at the difference in performance. As stated above, that is a pretty small engine but it is on there and it works. Have fun.
Click to expand...
Curious to what extent I will notice a difference just by adding a TC? Better acceleration? Higher top speed? Do I have to remove the governor?
 
SAS289

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#16
#16
Opening another thread was a good idea. Bolting the plate to the engine is one thing, fitting all that inside the frame is another.

You would have better low end. Acceleration should be better until the belt shifts. Once the belt shifts acceleration may not be as good as it was with the clutch because of the gearing change.

If you do get a torque converter on the bike I don't think you would want to remove the governor until you see how it performs at top speed.
 
massacre

massacre

#17
#17
bpjacobsen said:
yeah but it's bigger than a 50 or 70 cc. lol still goes pretty good for it's size and my 200lb weight on it. It's a mini bike so it's not gonna be a huge engine. Not sure I follow your point?
Click to expand...
My point is that if you are looking for more power, i would not waste time and money deleting the governor on such a small engine. A bigger engine prob makes more power with the governor in place.
 
sparkwizard

sparkwizard

#18
#18
I would NOT remove the governor. You should notice much better take-off and theoretically, higher top speed on flat level hard ground or down hill. I believe most torque converters start off at 6:1 and shift smoothly as load decreases, to .6:1 overdrive. Keeping the big sprocket on the back wheel would allow your engine to rev a little but easier, which would allow the converter to shift the belt sooner.
 
bpjacobsen

bpjacobsen

New Member
#19
#19
curious how much difference a predator 212 engine w/ torque converter would make vs what I have now? If I recall correctly, the stock predator 212cc tops out around 25ish with no mods? (seems hard to believe since mine gets to 22mph. Is that accurate?
 
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