Torque Converter engages, but weak?

#21
You have a specific shifting range that the CVT offers. Say, 8:1 to 3.5:1. If you change the sprocket ratio, all you're doing is moving that range around. If you put a bigger driven sprocket on, you'll move to, say, 10:1 to 4.25:1.
 
#22
You have a specific shifting range that the CVT offers. Say, 8:1 to 3.5:1. If you change the sprocket ratio, all you're doing is moving that range around. If you put a bigger driven sprocket on, you'll move to, say, 10:1 to 4.25:1.
Do you think having a softer driven pulley spring will help the belt shift on the pulley? I'm almost certain the driven pulley spring is just too strong to move at the lower speeds.
 
#24
I would check the preload you have on your driven spring. Generally turning the peak past one ramp is the factory setting, from what I have encountered.
 
#25
I would check the preload you have on your driven spring. Generally turning the peak past one ramp is the factory setting, from what I have encountered.
I have already tested all 3 spring holes on the driven pulley (done it twice), the belt will not widen on the clutch on any of those settings. I also tried it with my original spring and the red spring that came with the new clutch. Same result.
 
#26
I have already tested all 3 spring holes on the driven pulley (done it twice), the belt will not widen on the clutch on any of those settings. I also tried it with my original spring and the red spring that came with the new clutch. Same result.
Did you try revving it on a stand? Is the engine just running out of steam? Maybe try hitting the governor.

If that's not the problem you'll need to take the driver apart.
 
#27
! PROBLEM SOLVED !

Issue: The drive belt was not "transforming" on the clutch so it was like driving a car in 1st gear without the ability to move into 2nd ... this resulted in a low top speed and a lot of friction in the inner ring of the clutch plate cone.

Solution: My clutch plate (the cone that presses against the belt to make the bike go) was so polished smooth by the belt that there was not enough friction to allow the belt to widen on the clutch and narrow on the driven pulley to allow the higher top speed. My friend had the idea to switch my clutch plate with my older one and ! it worked! I was riding on an offroad trail and hit full throttle on a straight, the bike felt like the turbo engaged, it took off and scared me. I didn't expect that. So I went onto a cement path and the bike FLEW. I swear I hit 25 to 30 mph.

Long story short, keep an eye on your clutch plate because it can be polished smooth by belt friction.

Also, now I need to figure out how to return friction to the clutch plate... :\
 
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#28
! PROBLEM SOLVED !

Issue: The drive belt was not "transforming" on the clutch so it was like driving a car in 1st gear without the ability to move into 2nd ... this resulted in a low top speed and a lot of friction in the inner ring of the clutch plate cone.

Solution: My clutch plate (the cone that presses against the belt to make the bike go) was so polished smooth by the belt that there was not enough friction to allow the belt to widen on the clutch and narrow on the driven pulley to allow the higher top speed. My friend had the idea to switch my clutch plate with my older one and ! it worked! I was riding on an offroad trail and hit full throttle on a straight, the bike felt like the turbo engaged, it took off and scared me. I didn't expect that. So I went onto a cement path and the bike FLEW. I swear I hit 25 to 30 mph.

Long story short, keep an eye on your clutch plate because it can be polished smooth by belt friction.

Also, now I need to figure out how to return friction to the clutch plate... :\
Glazing. Did you ever use a Chinese knockoff belt before this?
 
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