Trisport differential removal help needed...

CaptNugget

Active Member
#1
Hi .. Need to replace bolts on my differential on my TS-110..having a ill trouble getting the differential off.. Does anyone kno what I need to do? I can't get the ends to come out of frame.. It seems like 1 of the set screws on 1 side is stripped but beside that ...how do I loosen the ends to pop differential off?? If you can help it be super greatly appreciated thanks here's some pics
 

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#2
Are you trying to get the hubs off or the locking collars loose? All of the tri-sports that I have seen the hubs are welded on. Split the diff and remove the c-clip to pull them out. The lock collars are cam locks and have to be rotated to break free. Your guess as to which way to turn them.
 

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#3
Ok I was looking at your pics again. In the second pic the entire diff should lift out. After that remove the 4 bolt holding the diff halves together. C-clips hold the axles in. After that the collars on the bearings rotate to release the bearings. The collars may be locked either way but i usually try lefty-loosen first. You may need heat to get the bearings and set screws off. Use about 3-4oz of bentonite grease in the diff when you assemble.
 
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CaptNugget

Active Member
#4
Thanks for suggestions I'll let u kno how it's goin after I look at it... I'm having trouble gettin the ends of the differential loose or to slide out of the part of frame.. Hopefully I'll figure it out... If not ill b able to get better pics and more detailed info next post when I'm at home ( doin this from my phone this weekend) haha.. Thanks :grind:work still in progress
 

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#5
Er well, what are you trying to slide out? Because what I am saying is that the hubs are welded on and the axles dont come out without removing the c-clips inside.
 

CaptNugget

Active Member
#6
i kno the hubs are welded on but i dont need to take them off.
I need to take whole thing off frame to replace the 4 bolts that hold the differential together (missing 2 and 1 is broken)
I cant Loosen the sides so it will slip out of the c shaped part of frame that it sits in.
here are some more pics, i hope this makes it more clear.
 
#7
Can't see everything in the pics, but can you not remove the whish bone where it pivots. Once the whole shaft is of its easier to figure things out and work with it up on a bench
 

CaptNugget

Active Member
#8
im having trouble removing the shaft from the frame, all ill need to do is pop 4 bolts in once its off... I cant seem to loosen it to get it out of slot... there are 4 points where it slips in frame and bolts on, i can loosen the inner two but neither of the outer ones... here is a close-up of what the areas looks like

that is an inner one which i believe i got loose enough here is 1 of the outer ones which i cannot get loose

any help is appreciated, as i want to figure this out w/o taking it to any shop!
:grind::confused1::cursing:haha
 
#9
Stripped set screw in axle collar,

Drill out set screw in the axle collar and move on. If your not comfortable doing that, run it to your local lawnmower shop, I am sure they will be happy to do that for you. If you have a 1" axle go back with a stronger 2- p.c. collar part# CLIMAX Premium 2C-100-Z,. You can purchase from McMaster Carr part#2380K26 they are balanced collars that I use on my aircraft prop shafts, I also use them on my street legal Alsport Tri-Sports.

Thank you,
Mark
 

wjustice

Well-Known Member
#10
Ok now I see. The bearings are still locked in place and the plates cant move to come out of the hangers. One way would be to cut the locks, drive the bearings over then replace the bearings. If you cannot get the locks loose, you may have to do this. If any bearings are bad now is the time to replace them. You see how much you need to do to get them off. Just curious, I see a bolt still there, you understand the whole axle assembly has to come out.
 
#11
thanks for the advice...yeah i kno it has to come off..i put the bolts back in when i ran into trouble so i didnt forget where they all went
yeah, i should probably look into replacing the bearings, idk if it needs it for sure but im guessing it would, couldnt hurt, thanks for the thought. (any suggestions on what type to get? ill try to maybe get a better pic of them)
hopefully i dont have to cut the collars off..if i do, any suggestions on how to do it (Besides carefully, lol) and possibly any suggestions on where to get new ones? OldMiniBikes?
:grind:

Ill try looking at it tomorrow and post up any progress, thanks
 
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wjustice

Well-Known Member
#12
The bearings are standard insert bearings like what is used in pillow blocks. OldMiniBikes has them but they have set screws and you really should use the cam-lock style. I got mine at my local Tractor Supply. They should come with new lock collars so if you think you will replace the bearings then just cut the old collars off. I can't tell from your pics but just measure the axle. The are either 3/4 or 1"
3/4"
Insert Bearing, SA204-12, 3/4 in. - Tractor Supply Online Store
1"
Insert Bearing, SA205-16, 1 in. - Tractor Supply Online Store
They also have the retainer plates if you need new. Just make sure that the collars are in the package if you get them from a local store. Around here things are often missing as people open them to look.
 
#14
Cool I'll check link when I get off work.. What did you use to cut them off? Idc about goin to 2 stores if I have to.. That's ok it'll b worth it lol .. Would heating them up some help get em off or will it damage the assembly ?:grind:
 
#15
Heating and pounding is still not very productive. I would use a angle grinder fitted with a thin cutting wheel and cut through the bearing lock collar. Then clean the shaft up and hopefully the bearing will give up and slide off the shaft.
Steve :scooter:
 
#16
Try this first gently before cutting. Your problem is even though the bolts are all out the bearing plate is stuck in the whishbone cutout. Remember yout hubs are welded on!!! carefull if you need to cut things off as the bearings will then have to be put on from the Diff side and thats a lots of shaft to polish up to slide them down.

The locking colars are stoping the shaft moving between the two bearings if you can move them in just a quater inch the shaft should pull free

Good Luck:thumbsup:

 

CaptNugget

Active Member
#17
Awesome, thanks for the suggestion, ill try that first. Does anyone kno if the middle of the differential (housing) comes off the shaft to be able to put the bearing on since the hubs are welded on? (first time working on a differential):grind:
 
#18
Yes there are clips holding the gears on the end on the shafts :thumbsup: you can barely see them in this pic :doah: and I have found that they wear the end of the axel a little and you need a small file to clean the burs to get the gear off :doah:
 
#19
the fact that bolts were missing from the housing is not good news. It means your housing where the cross pin sits is probrobly very damaged. It will be a judgement call once you get a good look at it weather you need a new housing or not. The bolts are what holds the pin in place so the aluminum housing doesnt take all the stress.
 
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