Vintage Style Chain Frame

#1
In case you guys want to make one...

Pic 1- Finished bike...

Pic 2- Finished frame...

Pic 3- Old, rusty ungalvanized 5/16" chain was stretched taut between a bench vise and a turnbuckle bolted to the bench...

5/16" was chosen for it's 'lighter' look, versus 3/8", which has less flex over the span, but looks very 'heavy', and less visually appealing...

An angle grinder fitted with a wire wheel was used to clean the chain prior to tack-welding with a MIG using .035" flux-core mild steel wire...130 amp setting...

Pic 4- This frame is standard vintage size and shape, and the links were tacked in sections to fit a bench drawing...

This particular frame has 27-link long top and bottom sections, and 19-link long seatstays and down(tube) sections...so the chain was tacked to these dimensions without cutting, leaving unwelded links (to be tacked later) where the frame had angles...

These long sections of tacked chain with an untacked link for each angle were then laid onto the bench drawing, and the angled links were tacked into the position of the bench drawing...

Pic 5- These two 'sides' were then clamped to the bench on another drawing showing overall width, and connected together with a steering tube at the front, and several welded-chain crosspieces...
 
#2
A chain frame has a tremendous amount of flex, so it needs reinforcement in several areas...

This frame has a heavily-reinforced bottom span, and the top span is tied into the strength of the bottom rails with two vertical 1/2" square steel rod supports...one on the left rear quarter, one on the right front quarter...

Pic 6- Bottom reinforcement is a completely welded-in fairly thick steel engine mounting plate connected to two arched center supports, and connected to an arched drag-hoop style seatstay reinforcement...

Pic 7- The top arch is also the mounting bracket for the jackshaft disk brake caliper, and the bottom arch extends down lower than the rotor, ensuring against rotor contact with the ground while riding...

Pic 8- Drag hoop style seatstay support, which is welded to the arched brake support, in turn welded to the engine plate, so the bottom of the frame is virtually one-piece, and flex-free...

Pic 9- The two vertical support rods, spaced equidistant across both sides of the frame...the rear support is hidden behind the fire extinguisher fuel tank...I wanted to hide the front support behind a 'traffic cop', but my wife said it looked stupid and made me remove it...

Pic 10- Once the frame was completely tacked together, I allotted one hour to finish-weld and smooth with a flap disk before the tortoise shell paint went on...
 
#3
Pic 11- This chain-strut and chromoly tube springer was intended to go on the chain frame bike, but was dumped at this stage after weighing in at 10 lbs...

Pic 12- Way too much heavy steel on this springer, including rockers and wheels...

The frame ended up weighing 24 lbs when finished...this fork would have been about the same weight, had I finished it...
 
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