I was given what appears to be a water pump, after some research it appears to be a West Bend 820, I do not have a picture, however, DZLBIKE posted a picture of one that looks identical to the one I have, http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/engines-modifications/58383-2-cycle-engine.html, The guy was just throwing the engine away and I asked if I could have it, it is missing the exhaust and it is froze up, he said it ran good, but it has been sitting for a while, so I was wondering if anyone could possibly give me advise about how to unfreeze it and possibly tell me something about the engine as I don't know much about it. Thank you.
Western Fire Equipment CO. With West Bend 820
You don't want that motor...just give it to me and end your grief!:thumbsup:
The 820's are great motors and parts are available. They have been used on tons of different items. If the motor is frozen, start taking it apart and see why. Take lots of pics so you know how to put it all back together. Start with the head. Look into the bore and see its condition. Chances are the rings are stuck to the liner. Use some PB blaster or other penetrating oil and let it start soaking. Whatever you do, don't force anything and use no hammers!
You may also want to take the "stuffer" covers off with the carb and reed plate. Make sure the roller bearings on the rod are not seized. Soak them too!
These are nice engines...take it slow and easy and you will have a nice motor if its not too far gone!
I like me some pics too! Post 'em up!
The 820's are great motors and parts are available. They have been used on tons of different items. If the motor is frozen, start taking it apart and see why. Take lots of pics so you know how to put it all back together. Start with the head. Look into the bore and see its condition. Chances are the rings are stuck to the liner. Use some PB blaster or other penetrating oil and let it start soaking. Whatever you do, don't force anything and use no hammers!
You may also want to take the "stuffer" covers off with the carb and reed plate. Make sure the roller bearings on the rod are not seized. Soak them too!
These are nice engines...take it slow and easy and you will have a nice motor if its not too far gone!
I like me some pics too! Post 'em up!
Here are some pictures, the top of the piston is corroded, I am just not sure what to use to get it off, any suggestions? Also, the bore looks and feels smooth. Sorry about some of the images being blurred, the only camera I have is on my phone and the focus is broke.
Engine - Imgur
EDIT: I was also wondering if I need to use some type of sealant when I put the head back on?
Would it power a go kart with 15" tires and a 50 tooth sprocket? Also the go kart has a live axle.
Engine - Imgur
EDIT: I was also wondering if I need to use some type of sealant when I put the head back on?
Would it power a go kart with 15" tires and a 50 tooth sprocket? Also the go kart has a live axle.
Last edited:
Hey Matt,
That motor is UGLY! It will need to be rebuilt...or at least new gaskets and seals.
Start soaking it from the top down. Take your time and be easy!
The WB820's use an aluminum head gasket of various thickness. Thinner gasket = more power...but also a bit tough on your arm!
That engine will power a go kart just fine, but I think you will need more gear. There is no low end on the 2 cycle engines...all the power is made up top, but they rev a lot higher than the average four stroke.
...and I suck at photos, but you might be worse!:laugh:
That motor is UGLY! It will need to be rebuilt...or at least new gaskets and seals.
Start soaking it from the top down. Take your time and be easy!
The WB820's use an aluminum head gasket of various thickness. Thinner gasket = more power...but also a bit tough on your arm!
That engine will power a go kart just fine, but I think you will need more gear. There is no low end on the 2 cycle engines...all the power is made up top, but they rev a lot higher than the average four stroke.
...and I suck at photos, but you might be worse!:laugh:
Last edited:
Ok, just looking at the exhaust port, I'm assuming that the cylinder is not only frozen to the bore, but both are likely very corroded. If the bore is iron, it may very well be saveable with a light hone. The corrosion I'm seeing on the piston through the exhaust port looks pretty darn heavy.
My personal opinion on this?
Break the piston free from the cylinder using a little heat & a LOT of oil. This is when I break out the ATF/Acetone mixture or Kroil, and a rosebud blowtorch.
Dribble your penetrating oil on the top of your piston, and play the flame over the entirety of the cylinder (don't just heat one spot like a dummy, get the whole thing sizzling hot). The heat will draw the oil in. Keep pouring oil in there.
Feel free to give the top of the piston a quick tap with a large wood dowel and a rubber mallet. Keep to the outside edges, don't strike the center of the piston, you'll crack it.
If it frees up a little, go ahead & rock the crank back & forth with a breaker bar until you can finally get complete rotation.
After that, just disassemble and voila, you're on your way. :thumbsup:
With oil & scotchbrite, you MAY be able to save the piston, but I wouldn't bet the ranch on it.
My personal opinion on this?
Break the piston free from the cylinder using a little heat & a LOT of oil. This is when I break out the ATF/Acetone mixture or Kroil, and a rosebud blowtorch.
Dribble your penetrating oil on the top of your piston, and play the flame over the entirety of the cylinder (don't just heat one spot like a dummy, get the whole thing sizzling hot). The heat will draw the oil in. Keep pouring oil in there.
Feel free to give the top of the piston a quick tap with a large wood dowel and a rubber mallet. Keep to the outside edges, don't strike the center of the piston, you'll crack it.
If it frees up a little, go ahead & rock the crank back & forth with a breaker bar until you can finally get complete rotation.
After that, just disassemble and voila, you're on your way. :thumbsup:
With oil & scotchbrite, you MAY be able to save the piston, but I wouldn't bet the ranch on it.
For 820 parts, go here Products | Fillman Machining
Dave is the Rokon master and a good guy to deal with. He should have most of the parts you may need.
For carb specific items, try EC Birt E.C. Carburetors
...and be very careful with a torch! Aluminum don't like too much heat!
Dave is the Rokon master and a good guy to deal with. He should have most of the parts you may need.
For carb specific items, try EC Birt E.C. Carburetors
...and be very careful with a torch! Aluminum don't like too much heat!