Which clutch should I use??

#1
I have a stock 6.5hp clone, and I've read in the manual that the max rpm is 3600.

I bought a clutch from a swap meet awhile back and put on this thing, and noticed that the clutch is engaging late. I have to give a push on my bike so i dont burn the clutch up and then rev hard to really get the thing going.

Now I dont think theres much of a problem with a clutch engaging to early right? I mean, i know you want the clutch to engage at the sweet spot but thats not much of a worry to me. The lowest i can find is around 2000 rpm engagment

I've just been looking for the lowest engaging clutch, preferbly one that engage a little higher then idling speed because i think that would minimize wear if the clutch fully engaged at low speeds right?

I am only 15 and this is my transportation haha so I need it to be reliable and long lasting. Because I'm 15, i dont have much of a budget.

So I could you guys on here recommend me something that meets these standards?

I'm geussing I should probably go for the lowest tooth clutch right? based off of this information.

"•11 tooth clutch will give you a faster take-off and lower gearing for climbing hills
•13 tooth clutch will give you more top end speed
•12 tooth clutch is the mid-range"


I saw this one
"#35, 3/4", 12 Tooth Centrifugal Clutch"
It is on gokartsusa . c o m and I just wanted to know if that would work??
again, just give me your recommandation.
 
#2
Clutch advice. Chime in for new member with 3 posts!

:smile:
I have a stock 6.5hp clone, and I've read in the manual that the max rpm is 3600.

I bought a clutch from a swap meet awhile back and put on this thing, and noticed that the clutch is engaging late. I have to give a push on my bike so i dont burn the clutch up and then rev hard to really get the thing going.

Now I dont think theres much of a problem with a clutch engaging to early right? I mean, i know you want the clutch to engage at the sweet spot but thats not much of a worry to me. The lowest i can find is around 2000 rpm engagment

I've just been looking for the lowest engaging clutch, preferbly one that engage a little higher then idling speed because i think that would minimize wear if the clutch fully engaged at low speeds right?

I am only 15 and this is my transportation haha so I need it to be reliable and long lasting. Because I'm 15, i dont have much of a budget.

So I could you guys on here recommend me something that meets these standards?

I'm geussing I should probably go for the lowest tooth clutch right? based off of this information.

"•11 tooth clutch will give you a faster take-off and lower gearing for climbing hills
•13 tooth clutch will give you more top end speed
•12 tooth clutch is the mid-range"


I saw this one
"#35, 3/4", 12 Tooth Centrifugal Clutch"
It is on gokartsusa . c o m and I just wanted to know if that would work??
again, just give me your recommandation.

OK, My clutch has a zirk fitting and screws in from the shaft. My advice is up the RPM by removing the govenor and use or try the same clutch. 12 tooth is fine for a clone 6.5HP.

Go to Affordable Go Karts - Home page - AGK - http://www.affordablegokarts.com and read and print docs on gov removal. Now your clutch will ingage at the proper RPM and have additional power. If you have limited funding, wait for the billet rod and 18lb. springs and do not hold it wide open for more then 3 seconds, or it could explode. I have a clone with the gov in it and do not have these problems..senior member's advise!


TT :scooter:


ujfh3ruhg3uirhgrhgurhguiorhgoirhghroghroighor3hgorhgorhgorhgororhgorhgorhg
 
#4
Is the clutch new, used, old and beat?
How many teeth on current clutch?
How many teeth on rear sprocket?
What size rear rim?

If you have a clutch that isn't spent with 12 teeth and a rear sprocket of 60 teeth with around a 6" rim, that would be a pretty good paved road setup. As far as the type of clutch to use, someone else here might have more experience and better advise for you.
 

den35

New Member
#5
I've had really good experience with Max-Torque.My wife had the clutch on her bike smoking so badly I thought she had fried it.Despite the extreme temps,it still works like brand new.

All my clutches are 12t.Seems to be a good average for on or off pavement use.
I got my clutches from MFG Supply.
 
#6
the Max Torque clutches do hold up well. i haven't had a problem with mine on the DB after beating the shit out of it and i weigh 260lbs.
 
#7
Ageed ... The Max Torque clutch rocks ... I have them on all of my bikes... I've got a hook up but they are still reasonably priced ...:thumbsup:
 
#8
Max-torque clutches are great! But comet makes a better clutch it doesnt make as much noise when it engagesand its beefier, look for a comet their about same price as Max torque($40).Heres a trick you can make these seemingly unadjustable clutches engage at different rpms by taking the clutch apart and cut a few spirals off the spring to make them engage at higher rpms .If you put space inbetween spirals it will make it engage at lower rpms, you dont want to make clutch engage to early it will bog the engine down,or shut motor off .They are a problem getting back together use numerous vice grips to hold while inserting o-ring,if yours is engaging at too high rpms your shoes are worn,take it apart ruff shoes and hub up with sandpaper and put a little space between one of the spirals in sping with needle nose pliers, good luck ive done this to my bikes that make alot of power because you want the clutch to engage when motor is well into power curve not just off idle.
 
#9
I have a lot of both maxT and comet clutches and I like the Comet better. As said the MT makes noise and rattles do to slop and the "PING PING PING" drives me nuts.

Just get a 12 t 3/4' bore, 35 chain Comet and call it good. They are about $25 at BMI and other places that don't over charge for clutches.

I ran a Comet on a 10HP engine with big carb and it's hasn't burned up yet. (rated at 8hp max)
 
#10
:smile:


OK, My clutch has a zirk fitting and screws in from the shaft. My advice is up the RPM by removing the govenor and use or try the same clutch. 12 tooth is fine for a clone 6.5HP.

Go to Affordable Go Karts - Home page - AGK - http://www.affordablegokarts.com and read and print docs on gov removal. Now your clutch will ingage at the proper RPM and have additional power. If you have limited funding, wait for the billet rod and 18lb. springs and do not hold it wide open for more then 3 seconds, or it could explode. I have a clone with the gov in it and do not have these problems..senior member's advise!


TT :scooter:


ujfh3ruhg3uirhgrhgurhguiorhgoirhghroghroighor3hgorhgorhgorhgororhgorhgorhg
I do not want to modify the motor. Again, I am only 15, and do not have a whole lot of cash. :sadcrying4:

I believe that the engines were made to work a certain way, and Removing the govner doesnt sound safe.
 
#13
http://store02.prostores . c o m /servlet/motorcycleaccessorywarehouse/the-1191401/Engine/Detail

(take out the spaces)

sounds like this is the clutch that all of you are recommending.
Im going to order if you all think this is the one for me :thumbsup:
don't order that through them. check out Snowmobile Parts, ATV Parts, Go Kart Parts, Mini Bike Part, Lawn Mower Parts, Chainsaw Part and Small Engine Parts and you can get that clutch for half that.

you don't need to put in spaces either because that just makes checking links a pain in the ass.

COMET CLUTCH-4`` 12T 3/4-#35 217636A6 [ P 217636 ]
 
#14
Thanks, I found the same clutch 20$ cheaper.
so based on all the info above, you think this is the right clutch for me?
209760A - Comet CSC 400 Series. 35 Chain. 3/4" Bore, 12 teeth.

Also, I dont know what number my chain is. It looks like a normal bicycle chain, and the person who i got it from had no intention on doing things right, everything about the mini bike was hahahahahaha-rigged (no offence to race). I wouldnt be suprised if it was a normal bike chain. is this number #35?
 
Last edited:
#15
unless your motor is heavily modified, that clutch will be fine. make sure you have a 3/4" shaft though (since you never mentioned what you had).

if you think it looks like bike chain it's probably #35. did you try checking the sides of the links to see if they have a number on them? post pics if you can and we might be able to tell.
 
#18
@#$%#$% #@$%#@%$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :censure::censure:

"Part # 209760A is on back order with Comet. We have just received notice from Comet Industries, that all of their parts that are on back order will not be available until AT LEAST the end of August, early Sept. I apologize for the inconvenience, and the fact that we don't have any more information for you. Your credit card is not charged until we ship your order. We can leave it on order or you can contact us to change your order. If you have other parts on your order that you would like shipped out right a way, please contact us and we can get those out for you, otherwise they'll ship complete when the whole order is in. Thank you for your order. MFG Supply 800-826-8563
Mfg Supply"
:censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure::censure:
 
#20
are you sure? is it the same engagment and operation wise?? Have you had good experiance with them?
I hear that MT rattles, but my current one rattles too so i dont really care.
 
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