Which engine looks best,,,,

Which looks best?

  • Old Briggs

    Votes: 14 70.0%
  • New Champion (once painted)

    Votes: 1 5.0%
  • New Champ stripped on top.

    Votes: 4 20.0%
  • Nascar sticker

    Votes: 1 5.0%

  • Total voters
    20
#21
I'm usig a 41 on ones I'm building now. Aftermarket ct 70 wheels with a 420 sprocket and a 40/41 clutch, and 41 chain. They last longer than the 35s. You don't have to adjust them as often, and if you keep adding power, you're already ready.
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#24
People have been using #35 chain with full racing motors for years. #41 chain is strictly a stock chain, for mild applications. #40 is stronger, and #420 is super strong, usually not needed unless you have a shifter kart.
 
#25
Less lbs. per sq. in. on a #41 chain and sprockets(hence less wear) as compared to #35. The high end minibike companies made the switch to #41 for durability. In the karting world, the machines are raced and frequently have parts changed whereas a minibike usually once assembled by an adult will stay that way unlike a racing kart. Also in the racing world unsprung and reciprocating weights are kept to a minimum, so #35 is the chain of choice for that reason too
 
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#27
Less lbs. per sq. in. on a #41 chain and sprockets(hence less wear) as compared to #35. The high end minibike companies made the switch to #41 for durability. In the karting world, the machines are raced and frequently have parts changed whereas a minibike usually once assembled by an adult will stay that way unlike a racing kart. Also in the racing world unsprung and reciprocating weights are kept to a minimum, so #35 is the chain of choice for that reason too
I wonder why the Manco came stock with a 3.5HP Tecumseh and a 420 chain! :doah:
 
#28
BTW, that 420 chain must have been driven over boulders because it was all scratched and peened on the sides. I spent an hours trying to get it loosend up using a chain tool and found a hammer worked better. :doah: The thing would kink up and you could feel the lumps going over the clutch and tension didn't matter. It was hard to bend a few spots with your fingers!

I'm thinking a 35 chain would have broke under the abuse the guy laid on it. :doah: I know I forgot to order something. :doah::doah::doah:
 
#29
my gemini scrambler came with 420 chain. when i rebuilt the first bike i didnt know that and ran 40 on it for years. its trouble free and dont come off, just lube it now and then and forget it. my cushmans use 40 and i never have any problems with chain. when i was a kid my first mini was a all chrome job, and it whole lower frame was a swingarm that pivoted at the neck, and supported with two shocks at the rear. it looked neet but it was so flexible you couldnt keep the chain on. i changed it over to 41 and had no more problem with it. because of this i used a 40 chain on my homemade mini going to the rear wheel, i guess im just not a fan of 35.:scooter:
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#30
99% of are race minibikes use #35 chain. It doesn't matter if you climb hills or not. As long as the chain is lined up correctly and properly lube that's all that matters.

Check out all the pictures I have. But then again you guys don't even use race clutches. They mainly come in #35 chain. 41/40 chain is usually sold to people that don't know really about chain. These are people that don't know how to line up the motor correctly. Or don't know how to have the correct tension on the chain. All the local minibikes shops over here sell it to the kids. I ask them why do they sell it. They say it stops them from comming back with chain problems they caused. Stock motors, with a stock clutch is good for 41/40 chain.

 
#33
I was looking for a 40 chain today, one place wanted $49!!! for 10ft and $39!! for 41. :doah: I wanted it fixed NOW and found a better price on my second stop, they only had 41 but 10ft was $23 so what the :censure:

The manco took 5 feet of chain,,Works great and less bulky, .

BTW, looks like the Briggsy won the poll. I had a hell of a time getting the pipe off and had to bolt the engine to some wood and it took a huge pipe wrench. still NOTHING and I soaked it for days heated it. Finally had to hammer the wrench while being carefull of cracking the engine. Gotter done! :thumbsup: The carb might be lame but I ain't paying $200 on a race carb for this bike and the engine runs great and was a $25 tiller that stopped running 7 years ago,,, it fired up first pull after I swaped a coil from another engine. :thumbsup:

Being it's a manco "thunderbird" I might paint it "whine bottle green". hahahaha.
 
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