6.5 Predator(#60363) swap on old Baja Blitz, have questions.

Mini Bike & Go-Kart Parts

#1
Picked up an old and completely stock Baja Blitz out a field on some property my parents bought and it was missing right grip/throttle/throttle cable, had a seized clutch and chain, and the caliper was beyond repair. I got it running as-is with a little elbow grease and PB Blaster but it wouldn't go under load(anyone on it) so I went shopping. Grabbed a grip/throttle kit, 6.5 Predator Hemi, PMR engine plate, hardware kit, throttle linkage kit, clutch, and chain.

Anyway it's all together and running but I noticed some things that I need more info on.

-Throttle is sluggish. I feel like I have to give it at least 1/3 throttle before the RPMs go up at all. It also seems like it takes a while to get going. I'm 6'2" @ 228lbs, so the latter issue may be due to me riding it.

-The throttle kit I got from HRMB took some tinkering and bending to get it installed correctly. Is this typical? It was nothing like the install instructions(which weren't that great, by the way). I added both L plates and the spring. I'll get a photo once I get the airbox assembly off again.

-The engine and plate moved a bit after my test drive causing the chain to loosen. Any tips to keep that from happening, such as lock washers or etc?

-I have the stock chain guard but did not get the big HRMB chain guard so the clutch is exposed. Apart from loose clothing being a risk, is there any other reason to get that guard or should I be fine without it?

-Are there any known issues or recommend modifications/alterations I need to know about with this motor, or is it cool to just run it as-is?

Thanks.
 
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#2
It should be very responsive and quick , the Predator is a lot of engine on these bikes , we need pics of how you routed and installed the throttle cable , the engine plate needs to be very tight , if it doesn't have lock washers or ny-loc nuts get some and when a chain snaps and whips your leg you'll know why you need a clutch/chain guard and the PMR one is very nice !
 
#3
It should be very responsive and quick , the Predator is a lot of engine on these bikes , we need pics of how you routed and installed the throttle cable , the engine plate needs to be very tight , if it doesn't have lock washers or ny-loc nuts get some and when a chain snaps and whips your leg you'll know why you need a clutch/chain guard and the PMR one is very nice !
I'll probably get that PMR chain guard next week, and possibly the Stage 1 kit because why not.

I've marked/labeled the parts I added using the throttle linkage kit from hotrodminibike;
IMG_20170417_120659.jpg

I've marked/labeled the cable holder I added from the throttle linkage kit;
IMG_20170417_120738.jpg

I'm pretty sure the first pic is pretty much exactly how the instructions told me to do it, I just had to improvise a bit due to receiving a throttle cable that wasn't cut for this particular model baja so the cable adjuster l-bracket is reversed to get me the extra length I needed to reach the cable stop.

On the predator's throttle lever it is pretty much perfect. Smooth throttle and return, no binding.

The grip+throttle+cable kit I got was a cheapie kit from eBay and probably isn't helping anything, but it works as intended and I'm hesitant to blame it just yet.
 
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#4
I'll probably get that PMR chain guard next week, and possibly the Stage 1 kit because why not.

I've marked/labeled the parts I added using the throttle linkage kit from hotrodminibike;
View attachment 96054

I've marked/labeled the cable holder I added from the throttle linkage kit;
View attachment 96055

I'm pretty sure the first pic is pretty much exactly how the instructions told me to do it, I just had to improvise a bit due to receiving a throttle cable that wasn't cut for this particular model baja so the cable adjuster l-bracket is reversed to get me the extra length I needed to reach the cable stop.

On the predator's throttle lever it is pretty much perfect. Smooth throttle and return, no binding.

The grip+throttle+cable kit I got was a cheapie kit from eBay and probably isn't helping anything, but it works as intended and I'm hesitant to blame it just yet.
If the cable is free and returns well all should be good , remove the throttle stop screw or back it out most of the way , typically these things are wheelie machines ???
 
#5
If the cable is free and returns well all should be good , remove the throttle stop screw or back it out most of the way , typically these things are wheelie machines ???
I adjusted the throttle stop out, but it seems like the butterfly is max open long before I hit max throttle on my grip/hit the throttle stop. The bike takes a while to get up to speed. Perhaps it needs a bit more ponies or torque for someone my size?

Throttle still seems a bit sluggish, too. When I mash on it it's like the long oem springs under the fuel tank are slow to react and open that butterfly up.
 
#6
It sounds like you have the throttle hooked correctly but the governor on the engine is giving you grief.
You can easily "fix" that. There is a horizontal spring that is just under the fuel tank which leads back to the carb.
You take two cable ties. Snip the head off one. Slip the other one through the center of that spring. Slide the snipped off head onto it and stop it just shy of touching the spring. That limits how far that spring can stretch. This will bypass the governor but it will still be hooked up so to speak.
Tell us what gearing you have. Count the teeth on the clutch and count the teeth on the rear sprocket. Let us know what you have.
We can give you more suggestions then.

Danford1
 
#7
It sounds like you have the throttle hooked correctly but the governor on the engine is giving you grief.
You can easily "fix" that. There is a horizontal spring that is just under the fuel tank which leads back to the carb.
You take two cable ties. Snip the head off one. Slip the other one through the center of that spring. Slide the snipped off head onto it and stop it just shy of touching the spring. That limits how far that spring can stretch. This will bypass the governor but it will still be hooked up so to speak.
Tell us what gearing you have. Count the teeth on the clutch and count the teeth on the rear sprocket. Let us know what you have.
We can give you more suggestions then.

Danford1
Not sure I want to mess with the governor with all the horror stories and warnings I've read on here, haha.

Clutch is the max torque? 12t 3/4", the one recommended by hotrodminibike for the predator 212. Rear sprocket is oem Baja blitz, haven't had a chance to count teeth yet.
 
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#8
Not sure I want to mess with the governor with all the horror stories and warnings I've read on here, haha.

Clutch is the max torque? 12t 3/4", the one recommended by hotrodminibike for the predator 212. Rear sprocket is oem Baja blitz, haven't had a chance to count teeth yet.
the zip tie technique is completely safe ! Is your chain perhaps too tight ??
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#9
I don't know about anyone else, but my process is to mount the engine on the bike with no clutch attached. Attach the throttle cable and engine kill wire. Then start the engine to check idle speed and how it revs. Is my throttle arrangement working properly? How is the throttle response? Any oil leaks after the engine is hot? Make any adjustments if necessary. Now that you know the engine is setup ok hook up clutch and chain. Then test ride. If there are concerns while riding the main concern would be gearing. You also may notice the governor doing it's thing once you get up to top speed. Sure you have added a load to the engine but generally you could almost eliminate it as a cause to a riding symptom because it was already tested before you rode.
 
#10
Not sure I want to mess with the governor with all the horror stories and warnings I've read on here, haha.

Clutch is the max torque? 12t 3/4", the one recommended by hotrodminibike for the predator 212. Rear sprocket is oem Baja blitz, haven't had a chance to count teeth yet.

That is actually a good call. Don't mess with the governor with stock parts inside the engine.
If you modify the engine, it is advisable to use a rod like this 6254 ARC Billet Rod, HF Predator 212cc 3.308 std - ARC Racing
and an ARC billet flywheel like 6619 ARC GX200 & Clone Flywheel - ARC Racing
Stock internals can't handle high rpm. If you try the zip ties to check the governor, be sure to snip the zip ties and remove them before you ride it.

Danford1
 
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#11
That is actually a good call. Don't mess with the governor with stock parts inside the engine.
If you modify the engine, it is advisable to use a rod like this 6254 ARC Billet Rod, HF Predator 212cc 3.308 std - ARC Racing
and an ARC billet flywheel like 6619 ARC GX200 & Clone Flywheel - ARC Racing
Stock internals can't handle high rpm. If you try the zip ties to check the governor, be sure to snip the zip ties and remove them before you ride it.

Danford1
Am I at the point where I need to modify it further to get more pull/torque/acceleration out of it? As noted in my first post I'm 6'2" and around 228lbs so I am a big guy compared to this little bike, and I'm guessing that's my problem.
 
#12
Went ahead and finally ordered a new rear caliper...and the OldMiniBikes performance kit. This free bike has cost me roughly $340 so far. Still need to get a chain/clutch guard, possibly wheel bearings, and eventually a set of tires for it.
 

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