8HP vertical shaft convert to horizontal

#1
Should I use a billet connecting rod or just use the original?

Should an aluminum flywheel be used?

Does any one know of a carb mount adapter that will help mount the carb upright?

Do they sell 1" shaft centrifical clutches?

I drilled 4 holes in bottom of crankcase, I will put aluminum spacers inbetween the holes and mount metal braCKETS to bottom of engine, then mount frame to the brackets, but I need to use good rubber washers on the inside where the bolts will be, anyone know of heat/oil/gas proof rubber washers I can use?

Thanks for the help.
Hope this info can be useful for others also.
Don
 

bandit 40

Active Member
#2
Should I use a billet connecting rod or just use the original?

Should an aluminum flywheel be used?

Does any one know of a carb mount adapter that will help mount the carb upright?

Do they sell 1" shaft centrifical clutches?

I drilled 4 holes in bottom of crankcase, I will put aluminum spacers inbetween the holes and mount metal braCKETS to bottom of engine, then mount frame to the brackets, but I need to use good rubber washers on the inside where the bolts will be, anyone know of heat/oil/gas proof rubber washers I can use?

Thanks for the help.
Hope this info can be useful for others also.
Don
Are you joking ,:doah: that will never work, Im not trying to be mean, but you cannot drill into the block on an engine and set it up on end to convert it into a horizontal engine:thumbdown: your best bet is to get a horizontal engine for it:thumbsup: good luck
 
#3
Are you joking ,:doah: that will never work, Im not trying to be mean, but you cannot drill into the block on an engine and set it up on end to convert it into a horizontal engine:thumbdown: your best bet is to get a horizontal engine for it:thumbsup: good luck
Hi, cant see why it would not work with a solid level mount.
 
#4
What ever happened to think before you :hack:

:doah:

Only two strokes can run at any angle, the casing isn't reinforced there either. Also there's no way for the engine to splash and distribute oil.

You just butchered an engine. :eek:ut:

Yes, they make 1" clutches but the engine wouldn't last long enough to try it out.
 
#5
I dont know if it has enough strength for the block not to split up

You would need a horizontal rod, to get the dipper for splash lubrication, and the carb will have to be flipped so that it can work.

I am sure it will work when done properly, But i have extreme doubts on the block not cracking and leaking oil.

anyways its only about having fun!

So go for it!
 
#6
I dont know if it has enough strength for the block not to split up

You would need a horizontal rod, to get the dipper for splash lubrication, and the carb will have to be flipped so that it can work.

I am sure it will work when done properly, But i have extreme doubts on the block not cracking and leaking oil.

anyways its only about having fun!

So go for it!
I was hoping the spacers in the casing would be enough to reenforce the casing when tightening bolts so it would not put pressure on casing.
Bolting metal strips (or angle iron) to casing then engine mount holes for angle iron to mount to frame.

maybe metal strips on inside of casing also for renforcement.

what about an oil dipper, do they sell them separate?
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#7
First weld a dipper onto the rod to sling oil over the internals, then you will need to have the rotating assembly balanced. Then buy a horizontal flywheel. The horizontal flywheels are balanced
 
#8
I'm sitting here speechless. However, I do have to disagree with GTO regarding the case breaking because it is not reinforced. In order for that to be an issue Gote he's going to have to get this thing started and run it for at least ten minutes. The chances of that happening are about one in seventy five million. The good news though; is that the price for scrap aluminum is up to about $1.50 per pound. Just out of curiosity Machinebike; Where in the hell did you ever get this idea? I'm sorry to burst your bubble my friend but this modification has no chance of ever working. Stop now and put your time, effort, and money into finding a good used horizontal motor. You will be much further ahead and happier in the end....Ogy
 
#9
you can probrobly make a slinger its just a bent piece of metal with a couple holes in it and bolts to the rod bolts. To reinforce the area id use a big square piece of steel bent to conform to the bend and a big piece of rubber the same same size of the steel between it then id weld the bolt heads right to the plate so no possiblility of leakage or turning there.
 

bandit 40

Active Member
#11
Well All I got to say is good luck and be careful:thumbsup:. Machinebike if the vertical engine was meant to be modified and set up on end for horizontal use , people would be using them, but what the hell you might as well give it a try and let us know, and consider minidragbike's ideas and be safe :thumbsup:
 

Motra

Active Member
#12
It's a novel idea but I'd have to agree with the others who feel that it won't work. An oil dipper might look like a simple little piece of metal but they're designed by profesional engineers (who have very high levels of education in several areas of engineering, metalurgy, tribology, etc.) to properly lubricate the internal engine parts of a specific application. Plus, as several others have stated, the area of the engine block that's drilled for mounting is just not designed for the stresses involved in a working engine. Overall, I don't think it would be a reliable, long lasting engine even if the obstacles were overcome to some degree. But then again, maybe you'll show us doubters that we're wrong and you'll have a kick-ass engine.
 
#13
Oil dipper or not, engines have oil holes in specific area's to lube, if you flip the engine up how are these specific holes going to work?:eek:ut:

If you are doing it just to see if it can be done, that's one thing but I would never trust the mount and the lube unless you put in a lot of time.
 
#14
Another,

OMFGD post. If at first you do not succeed, try going over Niagra Falls in a trash can lined with silk.

My friend, Forums are to learn. You jumped the gun. It's not going to work. Another :doah:

This member who has no clue the Sun is 91,000,000.00 miles away and so is your engineering ideas. Even in Tasmaina, the coffins are built better for sleeping.

Measure twice cut once, ask first throw it off the pier and move on, fellow. These days so many clueless people or joke'sters are pranking this forum. Check out Tag Entertainment Fraud - Index virus city do not click on any arrows...

TT 5150 out!!!
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#15
Hey guys you all have to relax. It has been done before on many tractor racing websites. I personally wouldn't do it, but if that's the guys project. Let him do as he see fit.:hack:
 
#16
thanks for the tips everyone.

Welding is not an option for me right now, Ill have to figure out what to use to keep bolts from loosening. I am not sure how much height I can leave bolts stick up without hitting anything.

Im hoping this plate will be good support. The spacers I will have flush mounted in the holes.
 
#17
vertical to horizontal

First weld a dipper onto the rod to sling oil over the internals, then you will need to have the rotating assembly balanced. Then buy a horizontal flywheel. The horizontal flywheels are balanced
Minidragbike,
will replacving flywheel with a horizontal also take care of the balance for the rotating assembly?

Why do you recommend welding the oil dipper?

Here a pics of the fly wheel that came with it, does any one recognize it and maybe will work without changing it to a horizontal fly wheel?
 
#18
well you don't give up, I'll give you that. :sailor:

How about two plates , one inside and one outside making a sandwich then clamp and tap the holes and thread the bolts down through. That will make it a little stronger and seal from oil and the mounts are built in.

Still gotta deal with making sure all the parts inside get oil in a upright position.
 
#19
well you don't give up, I'll give you that. :sailor:

How about two plates , one inside and one outside making a sandwich then clamp and tap the holes and thread the bolts down through. That will make it a little stronger and seal from oil and the mounts are built in.

Still gotta deal with making sure all the parts inside get oil in a upright position.
yeah,
its a compulsion or obsession.

I was thinking of mounting similar plate on outer side as well (sandwich) together. Maybe use JB Weld on re-enforcement plates to casing.
then use iron strips to bolt underneath then the strips will bolt to frame (Im guessing this will be a good option). The spacers (Im not sure what they exactly are called) I have are threaded inside 3/8 size
 
#20
im not so sure about those threaded spacer thingeys. They use those on the inside of seats and iv had many strip out or break. Id definatly go with somthing more beefy
 
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