Are you F-ing serious?

#4
Unbelievable...the description says it "looks nice".

I'd hate to see his definition of "looks like a piece of crap". LOL!!!!

Somebody must need one of those real bad!
 
#6
Thats looks like an mtd or yardman 98cc 2-cycle tec carb. from a snowblower (their choke arm and fuel inlet is different from the toros) . Can you post a pic of yours. I might go 15 bucks shipped.
 
#7
Thats looks like an mtd or yardman 98cc 2-cycle tec carb. from a snowblower (their choke arm and fuel inlet is different from the toros) . Can you post a pic of yours. I might go 15 bucks shipped.
what kind do ya want? 90 degree elbow or strait in? Tall choke, long choke, what size bore?
 
#9
Slap the Rupp name in the tittle and its worth more money, Those bidder got to be out of there minds buying that. You could not give me one of those carburetors. I never had good luck with those carbs especially if they had years of fuel going bad in them.
 
#11
Slap the Rupp name in the tittle and its worth more money, Those bidder got to be out of there minds buying that. You could not give me one of those carburetors. I never had good luck with those carbs especially if they had years of fuel going bad in them.

Thats why you change the diaphram , clean it and it is good to go for under 5.00 .
 
#12
Thats why you change the diaphram , clean it and it is good to go for under 5.00 .
Not always... They are very temperamental carbs.. :hammer:

Minibike dude.. I would always take one for free.. You can always junk it.. The choke arms are more valuable than the carb when ya need one too.. :lol: don't forget that part.. :biggrin:
 
#13
Not always... They are very temperamental carbs.. :hammer:

Minibike dude.. I would always take one for free.. You can always junk it.. The choke arms are more valuable than the carb when ya need one too.. :lol: don't forget that part.. :biggrin:
Yah! you got a good point there. I Have seen guys mess with them carbs. all weekend long at minibike shows and they still did not run worth a s**t. I would go with a Tecumseh adjustable float bowl carb anyday!, than pay that much for a diaphragm one.
 
#18
Uhhhh hello....... :glare:

I never saw a Rupp with this carb and choke setup.. 50 bucks and climbing for a rusty diaphragm carb? :glare: If anybody here is bidding on this thing I'll sell ya one that runs for 15 bucks.. :hammer: I need to put some crap on Evilbay I guess..

Rupp Mini Bike Tecumseh HS40 1970 Diaphragm Carburetor: eBay Motors (item 320579850613 end time Aug-29-10 16:07:55 PDT)
I have an NOS one just like it, but the fuel inlet points towards the choke shaft. It's on pretty good so I couldn't use any type of air cleaner with it.

You got to wonder if the seller is the buyer....:shrug::laugh:
 
#19
Yah! you got a good point there. I Have seen guys mess with them carbs. all weekend long at minibike shows and they still did not run worth a s**t. I would go with a Tecumseh adjustable float bowl carb anyday!, than pay that much for a diaphragm one.


Thats because people try to adjust them like a float style carb, its a different animal, but not too much unlike a float bowl design you mentioned. I have dealt with these carbs for over a decade. The diaphragm is the issue and once its understood, things can become easier. With a float style carb of this nature you can adjust the float level to make tuning more pleasant, with a diaphragm you are stuck with the stiffness (or how worn out) of the diaphragm to determine what would be equated to float height. Some people will keep on sticking in new diaphragms (as mentioned here before) to keep the easy tuneability. I have found that usually the diaphragm will only wear to a point and then kindas level off (to a point of failure) . This is the same as trying to tune a float style carb with a float level thats too low (but who would ever do that, when its so easily correctable). It makes the screw adjustments more complicated as the low requires more movement and the high less as with the low level because it creates a greater overlap of fuel between the two ranges. You have to go back an forth between the two "sweet spots" of high and low to balance out the middle. It can mean the difference between starting out with an 1/8 turn on the high equaling a 10% increase of power to 1/32 turn half that increase after the bottom is dialed in. The condition of your needles can add or take away from this as a rotted and pitted needle screw will obviously be more unpredictable that a clean and solid one. The presence of fuel will always add to the breakdown/wear of the diaphragms simply by gravity and this will be significantly increased with fuel that contains ethanol as it breaks down the diaphragms material much quicker (some aftermarket brands do hold up better that others). Then you have temperature changes that effect the diaphragms flexibility, in my experience the change is less noticeable with a worn diaphragm compared to a new one. You may ask why would any would want to deal with any of this, the answer is simple.... A float style carb has its limitation of angles it can operate in compared to what is being talked about.
 
#20
Thats because people try to adjust them like a float style carb, its a different animal, but not too much unlike a float bowl design you mentioned. I have dealt with these carbs for over a decade. The diaphragm is the issue and once its understood, things can become easier. With a float style carb of this nature you can adjust the float level to make tuning more pleasant, with a diaphragm you are stuck with the stiffness (or how worn out) of the diaphragm to determine what would be equated to float height. Some people will keep on sticking in new diaphragms (as mentioned here before) to keep the easy tuneability. I have found that usually the diaphragm will only wear to a point and then kindas level off (to a point of failure) . This is the same as trying to tune a float style carb with a float level thats too low (but who would ever do that, when its so easily correctable). It makes the screw adjustments more complicated as the low requires more movement and the high less as with the low level because it creates a greater overlap of fuel between the two ranges. You have to go back an forth between the two "sweet spots" of high and low to balance out the middle. It can mean the difference between starting out with an 1/8 turn on the high equaling a 10% increase of power to 1/32 turn half that increase after the bottom is dialed in. The condition of your needles can add or take away from this as a rotted and pitted needle screw will obviously be more unpredictable that a clean and solid one. The presence of fuel will always add to the breakdown/wear of the diaphragms simply by gravity and this will be significantly increased with fuel that contains ethanol as it breaks down the diaphragms material much quicker (some aftermarket brands do hold up better that others). Then you have temperature changes that effect the diaphragms flexibility, in my experience the change is less noticeable with a worn diaphragm compared to a new one. You may ask why would any would want to deal with any of this, the answer is simple.... A float style carb has its limitation of angles it can operate in compared to what is being talked about.
My biggest bitch is just the fact of the way the diphragm and needle ared designed.. Those needles and springs and stuff are SOOOOoooooo friggin small that if a fly takes a crap on your gas cap.. It's SOMEHOW gonna eventually get in here and plug stuff up and the needle won't seat and fuel pours out.. They are just too damn sensiitive for me.. It's like you said.. Diaphragms get old and crunchy and ohhh my god.. :angry: Too many super sensitive pieces.. I've had a lot of them that worked great.. but had too many that refuse to work for shit.. So I won't trust one on a bike.. Snowblower or something is a different deal.. But I'd never use one on a bike..
 
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