Blow Briggs raptor

#1
Just want to show all what happens to a brand new Briggs raptor or better know as Dino motor . When one is trying to catch a honda power rupp in the winber parade
 
#4
We got the motor apart sunday evening , and it looks to me like one of the rod bolts came lose and started the problem .

The bolt on one side of the cap is still tight and the other one is backed off and bent .
 
#7
That is truly such a shame. A brand new motor just shouldn't do that. The good in it I guess is it will be fun watching what you do with the bike next. Somehow I wouldn't put it past you to put a Buick 455 cui in it for next year.:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Doc
 
#8
What's the crank look like?
The crank looks perfect , smooth as a baby's asss . Also so does the inside of the rod halfs , no scoring .

Pull the piston out it and cylinder looks new along with the piston .
Looks like i can get the block welded up and we put in a ARC rod along with some porting this time and be good .:thumbsup:
 
#9
That is truly such a shame. A brand new motor just shouldn't do that. The good in it I guess is it will be fun watching what you do with the bike next. Somehow I wouldn't put it past you to put a Buick 455 cui in it for next year.:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Doc
That might be a little much Doc . But it will be faster when its put back together .:thumbsup:
 

MB165

Active Member
#11
dont forget to make sure the cam isnt bent too. I was going to ask about the crankpin, but you said no transfer....thats interesting. Usually if a rod bolt is loose its from seizing, the aluminum softens and yields, leaves a ton of skid marks on the crank....in your case that failure points to lack of bolt torque. I see a cast dipper, I thought the raptor used a nylon dipper??
well, I guess a new rod, weld up the case and good as new.
ya gonna put a hotter cam in it?

Now it'll have a battle scar....:laugh:
 
#14
Years ago, this occurred often on kart racing tracks.
Racers started swapping out new R3 rods every race.

Considering the fact that these blocks are hard to destroy beyond repair......this is one way to "break-in" a new motor.

The stock Raptor III connecting rods have a short lifespan. You have to run billet connecting rods all the time.
 
#17
dont forget to make sure the cam isnt bent too. I was going to ask about the crankpin, but you said no transfer....thats interesting. Usually if a rod bolt is loose its from seizing, the aluminum softens and yields, leaves a ton of skid marks on the crank....in your case that failure points to lack of bolt torque. I see a cast dipper, I thought the raptor used a nylon dipper??
well, I guess a new rod, weld up the case and good as new.
ya gonna put a hotter cam in it?

Now it'll have a battle scar....:laugh:
MB yes the cam is bent but the crank looks brand new . I have found out this is a single bearing block with steel sleeve . Doug has found a dual bearing raptor block , they are supposed to be beefed up around the lifter bores . Were getting one along with some other new parts , bigger cam .:thumbsup:
 
#19
MB yes the cam is bent but the crank looks brand new . I have found out this is a single bearing block with steel sleeve . Doug has found a dual bearing raptor block , they are supposed to be beefed up around the lifter bores . Were getting one along with some other new parts , bigger cam .:thumbsup:
I think that might be the Raptor 4 block.
They say it doesn't need any welding for strength.
 
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