Bt200x won't start after crankshaft replacement

#1
Hi guys,
I'm new here but have used this forum as a resouce for the past year.

I bought a Coleman Bt200x b last year, and it has run smoothly, with only minor issues.
About a month and a half ago, my clutch tension bolt came loose, and I was foolish enough to not to replace it.( I just screwed it back in with threadlock and a tension washer) Within a week, the bolt came loose and I lost it. Before I had even found out, the clutch drifted out and the torque snapped my crankshaft. What a pain.
I spent $90 for a new tension washer, bolt, and crankshaft from Coleman. I swapped it out. Every piece that came out went back in, cleaned to perfection.
I tried to start it, with no luck. Since then, I have cracked the engine open again, tested the fuel, fuel lines, carb and all the wiring. The kill switch works fine. I have used starting fluid, and put a little fuel it the cylinder through the spark plug hole. I swapped out the sparkplug. I dont want to take it to a shop, but will as a last resort.
Please help! Thanks...
 
#3
Hi,
No, nothing... it is the same as if I turned off the kill switch and tried to start it.(which I tested by disconnecting the wire. It works)
Need more info?
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#5
Did you get the timing indicators on the crank/cam lined up correctly?

I know it's a rookie move, but I don't know how advanced you are with working on small engines, so we'll start with the basics
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#7
My guess is that's the issue. There is a mark on the outside face of your cam. It will indicate a point between two of the teeth. Your crankshaft will have a mark on one of the teeth as well. Those two marks should line up during every other rotation. This makes sure the valves open/shut when they're supposed to. Otherwise, the spark plug will fire before the engine is ready for it.

Here's a quick video that shows how on a Honda clone. It should be the same, or at least very similar, for your engine. Skip ahead to around the 2:00 mark

 
#11
Yes, thanks. When I was pulling them out them fell out. I carfeully cleaned them and set them aside. Two pieces each, x2, right? When i was done I put them back in and made sure they had no dirt on them. No wear. Cam is lined up. The valve lifters slid easily into place.
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#12
Yes, thanks. When I was pulling them out them fell out. I carfeully cleaned them and set them aside. Two pieces each, x2, right? When i was done I put them back in and made sure they had no dirt on them. No wear. Cam is lined up. The valve lifters slid easily into place.
And did you seat the top ends of the valves into the rocker arms? He shows you how at the end of the video above
 
#13
No I didn't! The other vid I watched said nothing of it and I didn't know to do that. I have to try it! Tomorrow...
Is there anything I should know before I open the head... like any compression issues... Thank you!!!
 
#16
No I didn't! The other vid I watched said nothing of it and I didn't know to do that. I have to try it! Tomorrow...
Is there anything I should know before I open the head... like any compression issues... Thank you!!!
You don't open the head, you remove that silver coloured thing that says 'overhead cam' on it.
There's your valve rockers where the rods may have fallen out of their place, in the rocker dimples.
Then, if that is the problem, you will either have to take the side plate off your engine and do it the hard way, or you can do it the easier way and learn how to adjust your valve clearance.
 
#17
Honestly, I've never done much with clone engines. I've watched a few build threads here and that's about the extent of my knowledge on those. Don't worry though, someone will chime in with any pertinent info.
You admittedly don't know what you're doing with these OHV engines and you're trying to help someone that has no idea at all with them. That's going to work well.

90% sure valve lash is the issue.
 
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