Cat 400 "Fur Ball"

#1
Ok, so I couldn't resist diving into the Cat 400 that I found on CL for $40. Today was spent undoing the scrub brake, losing the 3hp engine, and tackling the handlebars. The front lowers are bent and the left tube is broken away, so I found a set on ebay for $35 and they arrived today.

The grease is thick on the frame and motor mount and loads of CAT hair is stuck to it; hence the name "Fur Ball." Underneath the grease and flat black paint is the original candy apple red.
 

Attachments

#3
Handle Bars

I took the handle bars off, they were repaired by someone who could strike an arc but that was about it. I used the angle grinder to clean up the welds and bring it back to "almost original" shape. The chrome was peeling off in sheets, so I used a 60 grit disc to get most of it off. Through all that, the bars are basically straight and I was able to salvage the original grips. I'll need to file some to get square corners, and use some bondo to clean them up a bit. They are not really re-chromeable.
 

Attachments

#4
A little Drano please...

Started degreasing and losing the fur on the frame. Don't know if the engine is salvageable, the fuel tank is rusted clear through. I do have another carb/tank to test the engine. The frame is not too pitted, and I think stripping will be pretty easy. The wheels have the "mag" covers, but I don;t have a front fender. So, far so quick...this was just 2 hours of work.
 

Attachments

#11
I took the handle bars off, they were repaired by someone who could strike an arc but that was about it. I used the angle grinder to clean up the welds and bring it back to "almost original" shape. The chrome was peeling off in sheets, so I used a 60 grit disc to get most of it off. Through all that, the bars are basically straight and I was able to salvage the original grips. I'll need to file some to get square corners, and use some bondo to clean them up a bit. They are not really re-chromeable.
The bars came out good! Everything is re-chromeable. I wouldn't mess with filing them with bondo, just paint and re-assemble, until you're ready to get stuff chromed. Good job on those bars!
 
#12
The bars came out good! Everything is re-chromeable. I wouldn't mess with filing them with bondo, just paint and re-assemble, until you're ready to get stuff chromed. Good job on those bars!
thanks! I was worried the welds were going to break--the tacked on scrub brake mounts broke off on the clutch side with a good whack. A little more filing and I'll get the rest of the chrome off. Appreciate the advice!
 
#13
thanks! I was worried the welds were going to break--the tacked on scrub brake mounts broke off on the clutch side with a good whack. A little more filing and I'll get the rest of the chrome off. Appreciate the advice!
There's no reason to remove the chrome. If you're going to paint it, a good sanding is enough. If you're getting it rechromed, they'll do it anyway, and you don't save any money by DIY. Fairing welds will save you $$$ by the way.

I cant see any welds on the bars in enough detail to promise how solid they are. The bars on these bikes were not that strong. You see a lot of them are bent when you get the bike home. Chrome- they'll sand it down, and fill any large holes with weld. Then they'll start copper coating, then buffing, to get a solid and blemish-free surface. This is labor-intensive and the reason for high chrome costs. After it's smooth copper, they'll start with the chrome cycle, buffing between each application until it's smooth. You can give them a cratered piece of iron, and they can chrome it. As I said, a set of Cat bars run me $125 for chrome.
 
#14
There's no reason to remove the chrome. If you're going to paint it, a good sanding is enough. If you're getting it rechromed, they'll do it anyway, and you don't save any money by DIY. Fairing welds will save you $$$ by the way.

I cant see any welds on the bars in enough detail to promise how solid they are. The bars on these bikes were not that strong. You see a lot of them are bent when you get the bike home. Chrome- they'll sand it down, and fill any large holes with weld. Then they'll start copper coating, then buffing, to get a solid and blemish-free surface. This is labor-intensive and the reason for high chrome costs. After it's smooth copper, they'll start with the chrome cycle, buffing between each application until it's smooth. You can give them a cratered piece of iron, and they can chrome it. As I said, a set of Cat bars run me $125 for chrome.
That's good advice. I've got some chrome flakes that are being troublesome to get off. The welds appear to be fairly strong.
 
#15
Delousing the CAT

Not a whole lot done today: rained this morning and my other half was named professor emerita at the college's retirement ceremony at noon time, so I attended that (that was a no-brainer!). I had to cut the fork bolt as it was bent and the axles seem to have been fabricated from axles way too long. I pulled the rear fender off and was surprised at its condition. Cleaned up pretty well.
 

Attachments

#16
I had to cut the fork bolt off my 300x yesterday. That's pretty funny. You think you have a 5 minute job with 2 wrenches. Next thing you know, every tool you own and 2 hours later.:laugh::laugh: Looking good. Your going to be my teacher on this bike. I'll be doing one of these soon.:thumbsup:
 
#17
I had to cut the fork bolt off my 300x yesterday. That's pretty funny. You think you have a 5 minute job with 2 wrenches. Next thing you know, every tool you own and 2 hours later.:laugh::laugh: Looking good. Your going to be my teacher on this bike. I'll be doing one of these soon.:thumbsup:
That fork bolt was bent 1/4"!!! I couldn't believe it and I was on my last metal blade for the sawzall. Never expected that...you're right, out came the impact gun, then a ball peen and a driver, and then the saw.

What's up with the rust bucket? I was following that project too?
 
#18
If you mean the Rupp rust bucket, I can't get the flywheel off. I got mad and moved onto another project. :laugh: I think I'm going to throw a predator in it and work on that engine another time. Everything was going better than expected until I lost spark.:glare: This week I have been working on a Cat 300x I got. Trying to keep it pretty original. I have been putting a engine together the last few days. Looks like a Franken engine, but runs pretty good.:laugh: I have parts on the engine from 4 different Briggs. :laugh: When I get the gas to stop leaking, I'm going to paint it black.:thumbsup:
 
#19
If you mean the Rupp rust bucket, I can't get the flywheel off. I got mad and moved onto another project. :laugh: I think I'm going to throw a predator in it and work on that engine another time. Everything was going better than expected until I lost spark.:glare: This week I have been working on a Cat 300x I got. Trying to keep it pretty original. I have been putting a engine together the last few days. Looks like a Franken engine, but runs pretty good.:laugh: I have parts on the engine from 4 different Briggs. :laugh: When I get the gas to stop leaking, I'm going to paint it black.:thumbsup:
Wow, that bike looks nice (those grips will definitely finish it!). I have a 5hp briggs that I took off my tiller (bad tank) that I had planned on using until I discovered it had a short pto. Everybody wants a mint for a decent crank...so it sits with a NOS updraft carb (so I could use external tank and the governor) and me debating whether to fork over an arm for a new one. Have 2 - 3 hp Briggs and a Greyhound sitting--one will go on my ARCO when I get to it.

Flower beds look nice--my mom said her flowers have yet to bloom yet--she's over in Scotch Plains.
 
#20
Engine Plate/Disc Brake bracketry

Once the grease, sand fleas and cat hair came off the engine plate, I noticed additional holes that look original to the bike. Others were from the scrub brake hack job. You CAT folks need to weigh in on the four (4) perfectly aligned 3/8" holes next to the 5/16" slotted holes...another engine or for the TC model?

I also need a clear photo of how the disc brake is supposed to look--especially the cable mount. I have a Kelsey Hayes from my ARCO that I thought about using, though the ARCO was completely original with that brake. Is the direct replacement OldMiniBikes #1 or OldMiniBikes #2?
 

Attachments

Top