Cat Eliminator roller build with Endura parts

#1
Hey guys, its been a long time since my last post. This is what I'm working on now. I got a Cat Eliminator bare roller that I'm starting to build. It does have the stars and sprocket. The front end was tweaked and of course missing the fender. A year or so ago I got a Cat Endura that unfortunately had the engine plate chopped up so that it would sit flat and the original engine was missing. Other than that it was pretty much complete. To me it would take to much fab work to put the endura back the way it should be so I decided it would donate its nice and straight complete front forks to my Eliminator project. The forks and tire are a little wider than the narrower stock setup but I like the way it turned out. Now my focus is gonna be building a seat frame. Can anyone tell me how long and what size angle iron the seat frames on these are made out of. Also the distance between the mounting holes would be great to. Did these bikes use 12" seat shocks? The Endura has 11 1/4" shocks on it. I've got a set of 12" Sebac shocks I can use if the Endura's are to short. Will the chain clear the frame without the chain guides these are supposed to have? The engine plate looks like its been hammered on where to guide is supposed to be. I'm really looking forward to getting some work done on this build. Sorry for all the questions. I made a post on the facebook groups but didn't get many responses. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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#2
44DF2D06-C316-426F-AECA-E98007AC6645.jpeg 15 3/4” Long, 1/8” Metal not really angle iron, more like custom bend. The side that the shocks mount to is 1 1/4”, side the seat mounts to 1”. I’m sure angle iron would work.
 
#3
I'd have restored the Endura and found or made a front end later for the Eliminator. The Endura is more valuable and a way better riding bike. You can use a Comet 20 set up on it with a Tecumseh HS40 if you notch the frame at the clutch.

Otherwise, yes, as Trailblazer says angle iron works fine. I believe the shocks were 11 3/4" iirc. The standard Sebac shocks that went on all of the Cat 400X series.
 
#4
I'd have restored the Endura and found or made a front end later for the Eliminator. The Endura is more valuable and a way better riding bike. You can use a Comet 20 set up on it with a Tecumseh HS40 if you notch the frame at the clutch.

Otherwise, yes, as Trailblazer says angle iron works fine. I believe the shocks were 11 3/4" iirc. The standard Sebac shocks that went on all of the Cat 400X series.
I’ve really considered doing that. Maybe cleaning up the mess they made out of the engine plate and using a standard mount on engine torque converter. It would still never be a perfect endura again but it would be a neat twist on one. Still have all the parts including the plastic frame mounted tank.
 
#5
I'd have restored the Endura and found or made a front end later for the Eliminator. The Endura is more valuable and a way better riding bike. You can use a Comet 20 set up on it with a Tecumseh HS40 if you notch the frame at the clutch.

Otherwise, yes, as Trailblazer says angle iron works fine. I believe the shocks were 11 3/4" iirc. The standard Sebac shocks that went on all of the Cat 400X series.
View attachment 265971 15 3/4” Long, 1/8” Metal not really angle iron, more like custom bend. The side that the shocks mount to is 1 1/4”, side the seat mounts to 1”. I’m sure angle iron would work.
View attachment 265971 15 3/4” Long, 1/8” Metal not really angle iron, more like custom bend. The side that the shocks mount to is 1 1/4”, side the seat mounts to 1”. I’m sure angle iron would work.
Thanks for the reply! I’ll be making some first chance I get. Already mounted an engine on the bike and cruised around the yard on it without a seat lol
 
#6
I’ve really considered doing that. Maybe cleaning up the mess they made out of the engine plate and using a standard mount on engine torque converter. It would still never be a perfect endura again but it would be a neat twist on one. Still have all the parts including the plastic frame mounted tank.
I restored the big wheeled version a few years ago. I built a fiberglass seat by making a mold first. Most of the photos are deleted, but here are a few. These make really nice bikes, and I like the smaller six inch version you have better than the one I did. You can find a front end for the other one. NOTE: I know you did not ask for my advice, so feel free to dismiss it. Everyone has an opinion. :) https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/cat-endura-mx.93456/post-883088
 
#7
I restored the big wheeled version a few years ago. I built a fiberglass seat by making a mold first. Most of the photos are deleted, but here are a few. These make really nice bikes, and I like the smaller six inch version you have better than the one I did. You can find a front end for the other one. NOTE: I know you did not ask for my advice, so feel free to dismiss it. Everyone has an opinion. :) https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/cat-endura-mx.93456/post-883088
That’s one nice build! I really like the Endura but I’m not much of a fabricator. I’ve definitely made up my mind to build it though. It’s so straight other than the engine plate. I didn’t come with a seat either so I’ll have to make one. I do appreciate your advice man. Do you think I should try to re fab the original engine plate or cut out that boogers up one and make a nice flat sitting one?
 
#8
That’s one nice build! I really like the Endura but I’m not much of a fabricator. I’ve definitely made up my mind to build it though. It’s so straight other than the engine plate. I didn’t come with a seat either so I’ll have to make one. I do appreciate your advice man. Do you think I should try to re fab the original engine plate or cut out that boogers up one and make a nice flat sitting one?
Thanks, and I am no master fabricator myself, just some guy in a garage with a few power tools. If you don't have access to a welder, you are stuck with what you have. When I got into this hobby, I bought a welder for it, and now wonder how I ever got along without it. As far as the engine plate, that angle gives the engine a distinctive look that represents the period of time, so I would go with rebuilding it to original. It wouldn't be "real" difficult to do, since the rear section is still there. I have a couple of detailed photos of my mount, but no measurements. You had a roller of a more desireable Cat there. I've built a Cat front end before using parts I bought on line, springs, cups, etc. and the tubing is easy to find. I did get a guy to plasma cut the fork plates. Even so, I'd put the Eliminator on the back burner and rebuild the more desireable, better riding bike. You could then keep an eye out for a front end for the Eliminator.
 
#9
Thanks, and I am no master fabricator myself, just some guy in a garage with a few power tools. If you don't have access to a welder, you are stuck with what you have. When I got into this hobby, I bought a welder for it, and now wonder how I ever got along without it. As far as the engine plate, that angle gives the engine a distinctive look that represents the period of time, so I would go with rebuilding it to original. It wouldn't be "real" difficult to do, since the rear section is still there. I have a couple of detailed photos of my mount, but no measurements. You had a roller of a more desireable Cat there. I've built a Cat front end before using parts I bought on line, springs, cups, etc. and the tubing is easy to find. I did get a guy to plasma cut the fork plates. Even so, I'd put the Eliminator on the back burner and rebuild the more desireable, better riding bike. You could then keep an eye out for a front end for the Eliminator.
I'm so glad I made the post about my eliminator build. Ya'll have made me realize that I do need to build my Endura even if it's gonna take alot of fab work. Here is a pic before I disassembled it. This is all the original parts I got with it. Guy had also welded bar stock onto the shock springs to make them solid. He was kind of a big guy and the shocks couldn't handle his weight. I got to looking at the frame today and upon further inspection it appears that all they had done was cut the sides out of the engine plate, cut across the back, and then hammer it down flat and weld it on the bars. I can tell by the way the front of the plate is slightly bent from were it wasn't fully cut loose. I think that's gonna make rebuilding it a lot easier. I just need to cut loose their welds, leave the front still lightly attached, hammer it back straight with the back section, and then fab in the rest that's missing. The trickiest part of the whole deal will be putting in the jackshaft. I'd like to see those detailed pics you said you got of your engine plate. Especially if you have some from underneath. Oh and the front end that came with my Eliminator isn't that bad. I think the bars are just tweaked a little. I just really wanted a front fender for them. IMG_0616.JPG
 
#10
"I" think that is the way to go, but it certainly is up to you. There are all sorts of tricks to clean up the handle bar chrome. Vinegar, tin foil, chrome polish, other light acids. If there is chrome under the black paint on the fenders, you can use paint stripper. The "good" (caustic) paint stripper is no longer legal, but that orange or citrus stuff works pretty well if you apply it and then cover with a plastic bag. It will work on your tank as well, as I have not had any instances where any paint stripper ate into plastic. Speaking only for my self, I am glad you chose to keep the Endura together. Please keep us updated with pics and information as you go, and meanwhile, keep an eye out for the Eliminator parts.
 
#11
"I" think that is the way to go, but it certainly is up to you. There are all sorts of tricks to clean up the handle bar chrome. Vinegar, tin foil, chrome polish, other light acids. If there is chrome under the black paint on the fenders, you can use paint stripper. The "good" (caustic) paint stripper is no longer legal, but that orange or citrus stuff works pretty well if you apply it and then cover with a plastic bag. It will work on your tank as well, as I have not had any instances where any paint stripper ate into plastic. Speaking only for my self, I am glad you chose to keep the Endura together. Please keep us updated with pics and information as you go, and meanwhile, keep an eye out for the Eliminator parts.
I’ve got a tub of Quick Glo coming in the mail. Have you ever used any? The chrome on the fenders were the paint has chipped off looks good. Planning on putting aircraft remover on them to strip the paint. I wasn’t sure about putting it on the tank. I’m gonna try to get the Eliminator together and riding before I move onto the Endura. So today I made some seat brackets. Went to tractor supply and got a 36” piece of 1 1/4” x 1/8” thick angle for like $13. My in-laws have a great workshop next door. I used their bandsaw and drill press today to make the brackets. Now I just need to know how long that piece that bridges in between the two brackets is. And how far from the end of the brackets it is mounted. Any help with this is greatly appreciated! IMG_2443.JPG
 
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#12
I’ve got a tub of Quick Glo coming in the mail. Have you ever used any? The chrome on the fenders were the paint has chipped off looks good. Planning on putting aircraft remover on them to strip the paint. I wasn’t sure about putting it on the tank. I’m gonna try to get the Eliminator together and riding before I move onto the Endura. So today I made some seat brackets. Went to tractor supply and got a 36” piece of 1 1/4” x 1/8” thick angle for like $13. My in-laws have a great workshop next door. I used their bandsaw and drill press today to make the brackets. Now I just need to know how long that piece that bridges in between the two brackets is. And how far from the end of the brackets it is mounted. Any help with this is greatly appreciated! View attachment 266206
I thought on the Cat bikes, the seat bracket just bolted to the seat base?
 
#13
I thought on the Cat bikes, the seat bracket just bolted to the seat base?
Sure does. And the front mount is a long bolt, not two short ones. The way to fit it is to use the long bolt in the front, then bolt the rear shocks to the rails, and tighten them up solid. Shim the fronts with an extra washer on the outsides because you will want some slack later.

Take your seat and using photos from other builds, brochures, and thinking about balance and placement, and get it centered, and mark your mounting holes. Drill two of the holes in the seat for your brass 1/4-20 threaded wood inserts, mount them, then fit the seat with the two 1/4-20 X 1.5" bolts and washers and make sure your previously marked holes are still happy.
 
#14
Sure does. And the front mount is a long bolt, not two short ones. The way to fit it is to use the long bolt in the front, then bolt the rear shocks to the rails, and tighten them up solid. Shim the fronts with an extra washer on the outsides because you will want some slack later.

Take your seat and using photos from other builds, brochures, and thinking about balance and placement, and get it centered, and mark your mounting holes. Drill two of the holes in the seat for your brass 1/4-20 threaded wood inserts, mount them, then fit the seat with the two 1/4-20 X 1.5" bolts and washers and make sure your previously marked holes are still happy.
So I got to work on the eliminator some yesterday. Got the seat brackets all mounted up. Had the original front end mounted on my streaker frame just for fun. Looks good on there to me but it's going back on the eliminator. So I got started working on those. The handlebars are I think the only part of the front end that are tweaked. The left side specifically. What appears to be the issue is the flat part that mounts to the lower half is bent. Same thing is wrong with my endura bars so must be a common thing. What's the best way to try to straighten the base of these bars? Shouldn't be all that bad. One of the fork lowers is stuck so I squirted a bunch of Aero Kroil down threw the top. Gonna give it a few weeks to work. Maybe it wont fight me to hard. The other side slid right out. Also took the front wheel apart that came with the eliminator and its in pretty bad shape. Someone had put fix a flat in the tube at some point and that stuff crusted up the inside of the wheel halves something awful. Worst part is the hole were the valve stem comes out is rusted out and needs to be patched. I wire wheeled all the crust I could off the halves and now they're soaking in evapo rust. The back wheel that's still on the bike appears to be in the same shape. Gonna be getting some good practice at welding in soon. At least the sprocket that came with the bike is in great shape. Gonna be ordering tires for it today. I cant find any 4.00 - 6 tires online. Will 5.30 / 4.50 - 6 be about the same? As far as fenders go I have a front fender off of a scat bat that fits in between the forks perfect. Gonna be using it until I can find a reasonable priced replacement.
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