Clutch stall

#1
What kind of stall is everyone running on their clutch setup? I just received my MT SS clutch from Max Torque yesterday. The clutch is a custom setup which also has an internal key built into the sleeve. This feature allows for quick clutch swaps and maintenance. The new stall was set to 3000 rpm. I am running 14/66 gearing with the following mods:

arc billet rod, honda flat top piston, .265m cam, governor removed, honda aluminum flywheel, ported/polished head (milled .055), 18# valve springs, chrome molly push rods, stock rocker arms, tillotson 304wx gas carb, and an agk mini bike header.

I already have my first race lined up with my buddy who has a Honda 80 dirtbike. How high can I safely spin the motor without encountering any problems?
 

vette66_00

Active Member
#4
The 18 lbs springs will only keep the valves working properly until that rpm. 26 lbs will get you into the 8500-9000 rpm area. Its just physics. Ask minidragbike what lbs spring he uses. LOL I bet it a bit more than 26 lbs springs.
 
#6
I run AGK's 40lb duals,and with my the parson's racing 1.12.1 rockers it yields around .325 lift at the valve,I was gonna run with the 26lbs,but I figure this motor is no where near close to being as built as it will be. I will be running the premier stinger clutch with a stall at 4800 for my set up,I say get it to stall around 3500 or a tad more,Weight and gearing,and you motor combo will all effect the stall,so there is no "set rpm" you will have to do some good ole test and tune. I am 145lbs in everyday cloths and my gearing will be 14/52, this is set for 1/8 mile drag. I am hoping When I snap that throttle,I will get that ear to ear grin of saying DAMN lol. and pray it will not lock to hard where it snaps the crank, the premier magnum had done it,on the 4 shoe stetting I think:crying:
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#7
With that little .265" cam you must run the 18 lb springs or you will ware the lobes down with the 26 lb springs.

I run nothing but 45 lb springs or higher. But at that level you will need everything to be heavy duty. Including a welded lobe harden cam. AGK sells them, but they cost more. But if you ever plan on turning 7000+ RPM you need them.

I don't like the combo of parts personally. I will like to see a bigger cam in it for that 304wx carb. That would really wake up the motor.
 
#8
With that little .265" cam you must run the 18 lb springs or you will ware the lobes down with the 26 lb springs.

I run nothing but 45 lb springs or higher. But at that level you will need everything to be heavy duty. Including a welded lobe harden cam. AGK sells them, but they cost more. But if you ever plan on turning 7000+ RPM you need them.

I don't like the combo of parts personally. I will like to see a bigger cam in it for that 304wx carb. That would really wake up the motor.
MDB, what kind of power do you think my combination will produce? Oh yeah, installing a bigger cam just might be an option down the road. How big can I go on the cam without having to grind or clearance the lobes or bottom of the cylinder wall?
 
#9
If you get a hard face welded cam from agk,the lifts from .242+ you will have to grind a little,It is not as big as a pain as you would think.i thought i was going to have to grind the side of the cam lobes to clear the crank with my, .290 but all was well, i took more out than I had to,just in case i want to run a bigger cam in the future.All you need to have is 0.030 of clearance between the top of the lobes to the cylinder.:smile:
 
#10
If you get a hard face welded cam from agk,the lifts from .242+ you will have to grind a little,It is not as big as a pain as you would think.i thought i was going to have to grind the side of the cam lobes to clear the crank with my, .290 but all was well, i took more out than I had to,just in case i want to run a bigger cam in the future.All you need to have is 0.030 of clearance between the top of the lobes to the cylinder.:smile:
Thanks Boogyman. I just might upgrade to a bigger cam in the near future.
 
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