So I bought a kit that consisted of 2 charge coils and a flywheel with magnets on it. My question is I want to run led headlights off of it and I want to have a battery. I know I need some kind of voltage regulator/rectifier. But Do either of those have a diode to prevent voltage flowing back to the charge coils? I just want to do this right the first time. So to sum it up adding charge coils, want to add battery for accessories like headlight and maybe tail light.
Coleman ct200u charging coils
- Thread starter timh1995
- Start date
- Tags coil/fly coleman ct200u flywheel install lighting lighting/charge
So what im finding is people usually use a 12v voltage regulator rectifier and in my case im not using a battery right off the bat so im gonna solder in a 1000uf 50v capacitor inline with my led light. the ac power going into the voltage regulator will turn it to dc 12v and the capacitor will make the voltage nice and clean so there is no flickering. down the line you would just attach a battery to the 12v out of the regulator then the lights from the battery. I got these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J1XLHC4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 people have used them up to 60v ac and they work good then i got these capacitors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXX29X4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/...g-a-light-to-your-mini-bike-version-2.169204/
Yes there are several diodes to prevent stray voltages.
The biggest problem is over/under charging. The regulator will control the too high/low voltage and the battery charger will prevent damage to you battery pack.
I have a couple more articles that may go into greater details.
Please feel free to ask questions.
Yes there are several diodes to prevent stray voltages.
The biggest problem is over/under charging. The regulator will control the too high/low voltage and the battery charger will prevent damage to you battery pack.
I have a couple more articles that may go into greater details.
Please feel free to ask questions.
So as I've come to understand that is an 18650 lithium ion charge board. They require a different charging pattern because lithium ion packs can't just take DC voltage and pass it around, unlike an agm battery or lead acid so that kind of charge controller in my mind isn't necessary and it wouldn't prevent overcharging of an agm battery either.
This is a quote from a motorcycle forum about charging if agm batteries.
As long as the voltage is at 14.4 volts, you can keep it there all day long without overcharging the agm (which is a lead acid battery just like your start battery). The only way to overcharge the agm is too force it to take more amps, you force it by increasing the voltage above 14.4 volts, at 15 volts or higher the acid starts to get hot and it will vent.
As long as the voltage is at 14.4 volts, you can keep it there all day long without overcharging the agm (which is a lead acid battery just like your start battery). The only way to overcharge the agm is too force it to take more amps, you force it by increasing the voltage above 14.4 volts, at 15 volts or higher the acid starts to get hot and it will vent.
If your running a AC to DC converter the voltage will rise/fall with engine speed. At 4,000 plus RPM you can be putting out more than 18 VDC,not good for your battery. The oly thing a glass mat battery has over a wet cell is the electrolyte is more stable and the battery can take more heat and shock.
Alrighty update time 
so in short the system works perfectly. At idle the voltage regulator puts out around 11-11.5v and at full throttle it outputs around 14.5-14.8v DC. I achieved this with the voltage regulator taking the AC voltage converting it to DC then an inline 1000uf 50v capacitor to smooth out the voltage then to the headlight. This was a rough test model but functions perfectly. Little to no headlight flicker with a full LED bar.
so in short the system works perfectly. At idle the voltage regulator puts out around 11-11.5v and at full throttle it outputs around 14.5-14.8v DC. I achieved this with the voltage regulator taking the AC voltage converting it to DC then an inline 1000uf 50v capacitor to smooth out the voltage then to the headlight. This was a rough test model but functions perfectly. Little to no headlight flicker with a full LED bar.Attachments
Alright final update. I got everything all buttoned up and I love it. I made the headlight aiming chanel longer so you can aim the headlight higher but other than that it works great. Here are final pics. I drilled and tapped holes in the frame to mount the voltage rectifier so that's nice and clean and gets plenty of air as to not overheat. The capacitor fit nicely inside the headlight housing so that worked great aswell. And these are the bulbs I went with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9RSSD5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RugqFbDFHFC0J
the only thing I have to say about these bulbs is they do have a low and high beam function. With the inline capacitor I don't know how to flip the polarity to actually get low and high out of it so for now I soldered positive to the terminal that gives me the high beam. No big deal. Otherwise these for in the headlight housing without any modifications.
the only thing I have to say about these bulbs is they do have a low and high beam function. With the inline capacitor I don't know how to flip the polarity to actually get low and high out of it so for now I soldered positive to the terminal that gives me the high beam. No big deal. Otherwise these for in the headlight housing without any modifications.
