Cracked off carb mount

#1
Greetings! I have a 5 horse aluminum b&s that my wife picked up for me at a yard sale last year! Holding it would help to get my mini project going. I knew something was up since this motor is like brand new inside and out, she only paid 20.00 for it. When something seems too good to be true, it usually is! Appearantly the machine got bumped or driven into (don't really know what it came off of? ) something. Hit the carb and tank and snapped the corner of the block clean off ! You can take the corner of the block and place it exactly where it goes and it fits perfectly back on. I know pictures are worth a thousand words just can't figure out how to take them out of my gallery and put them into o.m.b. gallery? I have thought about j-b aluminum weld but not sure how well that would hold up with heat and vibration? Any suggestions? Is it even worth trying to save it? Like I said, I think its pretty much a brand new motor, just a freak accident when it was new!
 
#3
Yes. But a very clean break! Thinking j-b aluminum weld the making a plate to bolt between carb and block! That might prevent it from vibrating loose and falling apart again, maybe, no? Possibly fabbing up a bracket to hold the weight of the carb?
 
#5
Thanks, great idea! A few years ago while living in Daytona bch. my buddy gave me a couple pcs after using some on his pan head. Of course I never brought it with me on my move back up to buffalo! I'll have to find out where I can get some around here! My only problem is the piece that broke off fits back on like a piece of a jig saw puzzle! Do you think I should Neville the edges in order to get some weld a place to flow into? How about j b weld first ( would the heat from the torch burn up the j b? ), then some weld, followed by plate and support bracket I was talking about earlier. When I say "then some weld", I'm talking about the rod from the video! By the way, Canada is a beautiful place! We use to go up to crystal beach just over the border every summer when I was a kid! One of the coolest amusement parks ever until they closed and tore it down to build (ugh) condos!!! Thanks for your input! I'll let you know how it works out when I'm done!
 

bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#6
I would Neville the edges as much as you can, without taking away the fit. I'd even fill in the threaded hole.
You can drill an tap the hole again later. I would not use JB weld.
They sell a welding clay, that you can use like play-dough. You can put it around it and mold it for hands free welding.

After its cooled, you could Neville the edges from the outside, where you did not do it and fill it in.
When all is done, drill, thread, etc.. You should be good.

Years ago I used some stuff called Liquid Aluminum to Fill and build up an aluminum engine case on a motorcycle.
It had gotten dropped and tore out part of the case and a mounting hole. I should have never used it for what I was trying to repair.
It took too long to cure between coats, etc.. But when I was done building it up, I filed it, Drilled it and threaded it.
Worked till the day I sold the Bike anyway, lol and I had the bike like 6 years.

Only other thing I would do is, have someone Tig Weld it and fill it. Then you could drill, thread, etc after the repair.
Tig, however, will have a higher heat and may warp ??
 
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CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#7
I have found if you try to use that rod to fixed cast items you will need to get the whole thing hot and then the results are mediocre at best. It does not flow well with heavier/thicker pieces. Can you take it to a welding shop and have it done?
 
#10
Thanks bikebudy, I'll try the rod and take my chances with the heat. I like the diagram. Actually the hole mount is broke off! Just past the second hole, probably the same size as the carb. Wish I could up load pictures to show you. That's another topic I'm waiting for answer on! Again thanks for the quick response!
 
#11
A pro welding shop should be able to fix that for lunch money, but they're not going to weld the original ear back on if it's broken like the diagram. They're gonna grind it cleaner, then build back up to where it can be drilled, tapped, and ground flat.

If you're up for the drilling/tapping/grinding then weld is a viable fix.

Otherwise, I would get a cheap used engine just like it, wash the block up real nice and transfer everything over.

good luck with your project!
 

bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#12
Thanks bikebudy, I'll try the rod and take my chances with the heat. I like the diagram. Actually the hole mount is broke off! Just past the second hole, probably the same size as the carb. Wish I could up load pictures to show you. That's another topic I'm waiting for answer on! Again thanks for the quick response!
E-mail me the photo's. I'll put them up for you.

bikebudy@gmail.com
 
#13
if this is a 3 hole block and the outside hole is broke off you can go with a different carb or possibly drill a third hole in the carb flange and use the inside hole..if it's broke off past the inside hole close to the port I'd look for a different block and switch all the good parts over to it..
 

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